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6.0L Block Heater Cord Location and Routing

Glossary

October 30, 2005 Finding the factory installed block heater connector is difficult because it is tucked behind the bumper. Installing a block heater cord is equally difficult. At one time, all Ford trucks equipped with diesel engines with block heaters came with the power cord and plug. For the 2005 model year, production vehicles were no longer automatically equipped with the cord even though the engine manufacturer, International Truck and Engine Corporation, installed the heater element in all of the engines. The power cord is available as an option and it will be on any truck ordered with one but the connector has proven difficult to locate for many owners. If you are trying to install one in a truck that is not equipped, you will likely need assistance on determining the proper routing. An improperly routed and secured cable is susceptible to damage and failure. This is an illustrated guide to assist you.

Looking at the starter motor (right) you can easily locate the block heater element installed in the cylinder block just above. You can easily access this from underneath the truck though you will not be able to easily see it. The orange power cord is routed behind the right engine mount along with the main battery cable and the automatic transmission cooler lines. (if equipped) If you are installing a new cord, you will have to install the cord from just below the air conditioning compressor and feed it from the front towards the back. (below)
	This view (left) is of the front of the engine looking at the right frame rail and the A/C compressor. The white arrow is pointing out the block heater cord so that you can follow it. This is also where you want to feed the heater element end of the cord from. Notice that the cord and the battery cable route down and under the transmission cooler lines just behind the remote transmission filter assembly and up along the frame rail. The Block heater cord then goes over the frame to the outboard edge of the frame which is now on the outside of the inner fender well which is missing in the photograph.
From the right fender well over the tire and wheel, the cord runs along the outside of the frame in a rigid plastic tube. Both ends of the tube are secured to the frame with a plastic push type pin that is taped to it. You will now need to push the cord back under the plastic wheel well (not shown) and behind the front bumper.
	The photo on the left shows the right frame rail and the back of the bumper. This is where the cord is found on trucks that have them installed from the factory. If your fingers are nimble enough you can reach in on the left factory fog lamp opening and pull it out. Doing this usually rips the cord from the anchor pins that are taped to it. This is actually a good thing because getting those anchors out is extremely difficult and they become useless at this point anyway. Once the cord is free and the tie strap is removed you can route the plug through the grille opening or the more preferred routing is through the right fog lamp opening and secure it to the right tow hook with the connector cap. Removing the anchor pins from the harness frees-up a nice length of cord that can be pulled out of the bumper when in use.
Final Note: Coat the plug and pack the inside of the plug cap with Silicone Grease and Dielectric Compound (available from your dealer or Motorcraft supplier) to protect the electrical contacts from exposure from the elements and road salt.

This article is only to provide information. It is hoped that helps technicians in identifying possible causes and assist in the quick diagnosis of the identified concern. This is not intended to replace any official instructions, authorization or documentation of any Ford Motor Company Engineers, service manual, TSB, Service Message or recall.

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