6.0L EGR Valve Cleaning

The most current accepted way of dealing with coked EGR valves is to diagnose using the IDS EGR valve test to diagnose EGR valve concerns. Cleaning EGR valves is no longer an approved method of correcting sticking EGR valve concerns as data has shown that the majority of valve continue to perform poorly. Where warranty repairs are concerned any valve that fails testing must be replaced. This article is being maintained for anyone that still wishes to attempt cleaning.

October 19, 2006   EGR valve coking and sticking is not uncommon for the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. An EGR valve that is coked-up, or clogged with carbon deposits, will reduce it's ability to allow exhaust gasses to flow through it when it is opened ultimately reducing it's effectiveness. These deposits may also cause the valve pintle to stick or operate slowly making accurate control of the valve impossible. Should these conditions exist several driveability concerns may result. This includes lack of power, smoking, surging and the check engine light may illuminate accompanied by DTC's P0401, P0402, P0404 or P1335. EGR valve diagnosis may lead to the removal and inspection of the valve. The photo on the right is an example of a clogged valve. Several Technical Service Bulletins have been released concerning EGR valves and whether to clean them or replace them. If the valve shows signs of excessive coking the root cause of the coking must be identified and corrected and the valve should be replaced. Cleaning of the EGR bore and the intake manifold may also be required. See the article EGR Servicing for more details.

	Begin cleaning the valve by scraping out the bulk of the carbon with a pick or small screwdriver and a stiff nylon brush. The photo on the left also shows the weep holes indicated by the red arrow. DO NOT allow cleaning chemicals to enter these holes as damage to the actuator and the seals will result. Holding the valve in an upright position is a good method for keeping any chemicals or debris from entering the valve. Remove the o-rings and the gasket as indicated by the blue arrows in the photo to the right and discard them. Take care not to gouge the o-ring grooves or damage the valve.
	Submerge the valve in carburetor cleaner, Motorcraft part number PM-3, allowing the fluid level to only reach just below the base of the actuator. This is where not allowing fluid into the weep holes is critical! The photo on the left shows the maximum level the fluid should reach as indicated by the green arrow. Holding the valve open by placing an object between the valve and seat will allow the cleaner to clean the seats of the valve. Soak the valve as long as necessary to remove the remaining carbon. removing to clean with the nylon brush occasionally will speed-up the process. Final cleaning may be done by rinsing the valve with Injector Cleaner, Motorcraft Part number PM-2.

  When clean, use compressed air or wipe the valve dry. Install new o-rings and base gasket supplied in the o-ring kit, Ford part number 3C3Z-9P455-AB, and re-install the valve. From this point, continue with diagnostics, verify the valve range and movement, clear all codes and retest. If the valve fails the range and movement test or otherwise fails electrically, replace the valve. Always road test the vehicle to verify the repair.

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