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EGR Coolers

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I understand these are a little bit of an issue however I have not seen one failure in my shop as of yet. Today I have a a 2106 Transit using coolant slowly and no external leaks. I have positively detected combustion gasses in the degas bottle. Asside from removing the EGRT-2 sensor and inspecting it are there any quick and dirty ways of diagnosing a bad cooler or is the standard protocol just to shit can it and install a new cooler? I have nes for you, if I am pulling one off I am not wasting my time testing it just to put it back on. 

Also I did see this:

46122  2015-2017 Transit - 3.2L Diesel - Overheat Due To Coolant Loss Without An External Coolant Leak
Some 2015-2017 Transit vehicles equipped with a 3.2L Puma Diesel engine may exhibit an overheat condition due to coolant loss without any external coolant leaks. This may be due to an internally leaking Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler. To correct this condition, install revised EGR Cooler CK4Z-9U433-B. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-08. Use causal part 9U433 and applicable labor operations from Section 09 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) manual.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 11-OCTOBER-2016
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My first. The trick I think is trying not to slice your wrists and bleeding out just to end the insanity. 3 hours into it and I finally got the intake manifold out. WTF!!! Somebody please tell it gets easier. I cant wait to put this back together.

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You don't need to pull the intake manifold. Remove the engine mounts and let it drop down low enough and the cooler will slide out.

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4 hours ago, Keith Browning said:

My first. The trick I think is trying not to slice your wrists and bleeding out just to end the insanity. 3 hours into it and I finally got the intake manifold out. WTF!!! Somebody please tell it gets easier. I cant wait to put this back together.

Just wait till you gotta do compression on it. The glow plugs are under the intake manifold. 

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Don't even waste your time removing the engine mounts. Just remove the 8 bolts connecting the engine crossmember to the body and lower it. Took less than 60 seconds. And yes, this does give you much more room.

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Personally I found this experience highly over rated. When I got about half way through this I was just staring at the engine and all that space in the right side of the engine and thought "why couldn't Ford have  simply mounted the EGR cooler right above the turbo and exhaust manifold like the Cummins ISB engine?" Why? It would have fit there sooooo nicely.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/19/2018 at 6:20 PM, Keith Browning said:

My first. The trick I think is trying not to slice your wrists and bleeding out just to end the insanity. 3 hours into it and I finally got the intake manifold out. WTF!!! Somebody please tell it gets easier. I cant wait to put this back together.

I might have one coming in for a high pressure fuel system replacement. I see the workshop manual instructs you to remove the intake manifold to enable access to the high pressure fuel pump. I haven't had one out yet. What was the hardest part of the intake removal process?

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Yes removing the intake requires unbolting the EGR valve and the mixer tube and then sliding it all apart AS you twist and yank the manifold out of the tight space it is in. The biggest problem for me is just the physical aspect of leaning in and all the way back while removing fasteners you cant really see and turning the wrench. This is where dripping the forward subframe was helpful.

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  • 2 months later...

Yes. I unbolt everything so its ready to be removed. Loosen the CAC boots and take the 4 engine cross member bolts out, lower it a few inches and it will slide out the driver side. Be careful when lowering the engine, the crank pulley will touch the cooling fans so not to much or you might damage them. Good luck.

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19 hours ago, Steve Mutter said:

I have one coming in for an egr cooler today, I have never done one yet so the trick is just to lower the engine down? and the intake manifold does not have to come off at all to do this job ?

The biggest pain in the ass of this job, is accessing the EGR cooler and mixer tube fasteners. I have yet to figure out a combination of sockets and extensions to make easy work of this. The lack of space and working blind is what makes this job unpleasant.

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  • 2 months later...

Okay so my second cooler has arrived and this time I am going to lower the engine and leave the intake intact as recommended. I have determined that unbolting the subframe is quicker than removing the mounts and on this one I am going to zap the cooling fan off.  

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Remove the wiper cowl and fresh air inlet duct. Trust me, it'll make easier work of accessing the clamp as well as the fasteners at the back of the cooler.

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/7/2018 at 6:59 AM, mchan68 said:

Remove the wiper cowl and fresh air inlet duct. Trust me, it'll make easier work of accessing the clamp as well as the fasteners at the back of the cooler.

I also remove the hood to get my fat head in there.

The hood has studs and is very easy and light to remove and reinstall. 1 person, 1 minute job. 

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7 hours ago, 2006 said:

I also remove the hood to get my fat head in there.

The hood has studs and is very easy and light to remove and reinstall. 1 person, 1 minute job. 

Good to know!!! I'll have to try that next time.

I just finished up the two most horrible jobs ever one could get on one of these, an EGR cooler replacement AS WELL AS a 16S32 that had metal present in the fuel system!!!

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On 1/27/2019 at 8:59 PM, mchan68 said:

Good to know!!! I'll have to try that next time.

I just finished up the two most horrible jobs ever one could get on one of these, an EGR cooler replacement AS WELL AS a 16S32 that had metal present in the fuel system!!!

The 2 combined ain’t that bad of a combo are they? 

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3 hours ago, forddieseldoctor said:

The 2 combined ain’t that bad of a combo are they? 

When there's an aftermarket refrigeration compressor and the associated plumbing added under the hood it is.

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