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      ATTENTION!   10/10/2017

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webmaster last won the day on May 5 2017

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  1. Fuel Additive Bottle Caps

    We have heard of this unfortunate and easy to make mistake. You want to take care of your truck and use products that can help promote good fuel quality and system integrity which includes a variety of fuel system additives. Typically these products come in small bottles that have caps containing a coated cardboard disc inside of the cap intended to provide a seal. Apparently these discs are not adequately secured to the cap and may remain stuck to the top of the bottle. If you are not observant and begin pouring your product into the fuel filler of your truck and this seal is stuck to the top of the bottle it may come loose as soon as the liquid begins to flow taking the cap into the fuel tank along with it. So what you say and there is probably all sorts of junk floating about inside you fuel tank? Well, there have been many reports of 2011 and newer Super Duty trucks that have been stopped in their tracks when these seemingly harmless discs get pulled up against the fuel pick up causing a restriction resulting in low fuel pressure and an engine stalling event. When this happens there will be a loud whining sound coming from the fuel supply pump and a low fuel pressure warning on the instrument cluster. This condition will likely be an intermittent and random concern making it very difficult to verify and diagnose therefore you should keep this in mind. And for the vehicle owner reading this, remember to look at your additive bottle before pouring. It just may save you and a technician some headaches.
  2. Fuel Additive Bottle Caps

    We have heard of this unfortunate and easy to make mistake. You want to take care of your truck and use products that can help promote good fuel quality and system integrity which includes a variety of fuel system additives. Typically these products come in small bottles that have caps containing a coated cardboard disc inside of the cap intended to provide a seal. Apparently these discs are not adequately secured to the cap and may remain stuck to the top of the bottle. If you are not observant and begin pouring your product into the fuel filler of your truck and this seal is stuck to the top of the bottle it may come loose as soon as the liquid begins to flow taking the cap into the fuel tank along with it. So what you say and there is probably all sorts of junk floating about inside you fuel tank? Well, there have been many reports of 2011 and newer Super Duty trucks that have been stopped in their tracks when these seemingly harmless discs get pulled up against the fuel pick up causing a restriction resulting in low fuel pressure and an engine stalling event. When this happens there will be a loud whining sound coming from the fuel supply pump and a low fuel pressure warning on the instrument cluster. This condition will likely be an intermittent and random concern making it very difficult to verify and diagnose therefore you should keep this in mind. And for the vehicle owner reading this, remember to look at your additive bottle before pouring. It just may save you and a technician some headaches. View full record
  3. IDS vehicle ID not correct

    Ohhh do be careful as this shit is hot!!!
  4. IDS vehicle ID not correct

    Still playin around with this stuff. Coming up to the day I make the switch.
  5. Repairing EGT Sensor Bosses

    Diesel exhaust gas temperature sensors can seize, break off and sometimes damage the threads in their mounting boss during removal preventing the installation of a new EGT sensor rendering the diesel oxidation, diesel particulate or selective reduction catalysts useless. We have some repair advice to offer you from the best method of removing the sensors to repairing or replacing the mounting boss. So you have a diesel truck in the shop that either won't start or has a check engine light on due to an EGT sensor concern. Your first step is to diagnose the concern and determine what the proper and effective repair will be. If an EGT sensor requires replacement, first inspect the entire exhaust system for damage including the tailpipe for the presence of black soot and other sediments or fluid that would indicate that the DPF is cracked or damaged in some way that it would require replacement to begin with. Remove The EGT Sensor As per Ford Motor Company and the experience of service technicians, the best method for removing these sensors is as follows: Cut off the wire from the top of the sensor to allow a deep six point 13mm socket to be placed onto the sensor hex nut. Using an oxyacetylene torch carefully heat the sensor mounting boss until it glows bright orange. Using a breaker bar place the socket onto the sensor hex nut and loosen - allow the parts to cool. Inspect the sensor boss for damage - sometimes the sensor refuses to break loose, the nut beaks off, the threads will lock up after a few turns or the sensor will come out but the threads will be damaged. Depending on the results of your inspection the next steps may or may not apply. Repair Damaged Threads If the sensor comes out and the threads are damaged they can usually be repaired. Using a 12mm X 1.25 bottoming tap Identified by the flat tip shown in the picture the threads can be re-cut allowing a new sensor to be installed. Do not use a thread chaser/repair tap as those tools are not meant to cut the threads but only clean them up and will not be effective. When cleaning the threads with the tap use caution to avoid damaging the EGT sensor sealing surface at the bottom of the mounting boss. Replace The Mounting Boss The following procedure requires the use of an oxyacetylene torch and a welder. You must also obtain a new sensor boss. This repair is not recognized by Ford Motor Company and is not covered by any warranty provision and the parts other than the sensors are not available from Ford. There are sources for these bosses but you have to search for them: This source on EBAY will get you the right part. Search the Internet for "Exhaust Sensor Boss" or "Exhaust Sensor Bung" with 12mm X 1.25 threads Step 1 - Access the damaged sensor mounting boss either by raising the body on chassis cab trucks with a dump body or removing the catalyst from the truck to work on a bench. In some cases you may be able to simply disconnect the inlet of the entire aftertreatment assembly and disconnect the mounts from the frame and drop the assembly down enough to provide ample room to work. Step 2 - Heat the damaged EGT mounting boss with an acetylene torch until it glows bright orange, then twist it off with a pipe wrench. Step 3 - Once removed you need to clean the area around the hole down to bare metal in preparation for welding. Step 4 - Center the new sensor mounting boss on the hole and weld in place using an Arc-welder or preferably a Mig-welder. Remember that you are welding to a thin steel exhaust component, not a battle ship and excessive power and heat is not needed. Step 5 - Reinstall the exhaust into the vehicle, apply nickel anti-seize compound to the new sensor fitting threads, install the sensor and torque to specification (22 lb-ft / 30 Nm) then apply silicone dielectric grease to the sensor electrical connector pins and connect the sensor to the vehicle harness. Ensure that the connector and the wiring is properly secured preventing contact with the hot exhaust system or other moving parts under the vehicle. Article and Images by Keith Browning and Jeff Eichen
  6. Repairing EGT Sensor Bosses

    Diesel exhaust gas temperature sensors can seize, break off and sometimes damage the threads in their mounting boss during removal preventing the installation of a new EGT sensor rendering the diesel oxidation, diesel particulate or selective reduction catalysts useless. We have some repair advice to offer you from the best method of removing the sensors to repairing or replacing the mounting boss. So you have a diesel truck in the shop that either won't start or has a check engine light on due to an EGT sensor concern. Your first step is to diagnose the concern and determine what the proper and effective repair will be. If an EGT sensor requires replacement, first inspect the entire exhaust system for damage including the tailpipe for the presence of black soot and other sediments or fluid that would indicate that the DPF is cracked or damaged in some way that it would require replacement to begin with. Remove The EGT Sensor As per Ford Motor Company and the experience of service technicians, the best method for removing these sensors is as follows: Cut off the wire from the top of the sensor to allow a deep six point 13mm socket to be placed onto the sensor hex nut. Using an oxyacetylene torch carefully heat the sensor mounting boss until it glows bright orange. Using a breaker bar place the socket onto the sensor hex nut and loosen - allow the parts to cool. Inspect the sensor boss for damage - sometimes the sensor refuses to break loose, the nut beaks off, the threads will lock up after a few turns or the sensor will come out but the threads will be damaged. Depending on the results of your inspection the next steps may or may not apply. Repair Damaged Threads If the sensor comes out and the threads are damaged they can usually be repaired. Using a 12mm X 1.25 bottoming tap Identified by the flat tip shown in the picture the threads can be re-cut allowing a new sensor to be installed. Do not use a thread chaser/repair tap as those tools are not meant to cut the threads but only clean them up and will not be effective. When cleaning the threads with the tap use caution to avoid damaging the EGT sensor sealing surface at the bottom of the mounting boss. Replace The Mounting Boss The following procedure requires the use of an oxyacetylene torch and a welder. You must also obtain a new sensor boss. This repair is not recognized by Ford Motor Company and is not covered by any warranty provision and the parts other than the sensors are not available from Ford. There are sources for these bosses but you have to search for them: This source on EBAY will get you the right part. Search the Internet for "Exhaust Sensor Boss" or "Exhaust Sensor Bung" with 12mm X 1.25 threads Step 1 - Access the damaged sensor mounting boss either by raising the body on chassis cab trucks with a dump body or removing the catalyst from the truck to work on a bench. In some cases you may be able to simply disconnect the inlet of the entire aftertreatment assembly and disconnect the mounts from the frame and drop the assembly down enough to provide ample room to work. Step 2 - Heat the damaged EGT mounting boss with an acetylene torch until it glows bright orange, then twist it off with a pipe wrench. Step 3 - Once removed you need to clean the area around the hole down to bare metal in preparation for welding. Step 4 - Center the new sensor mounting boss on the hole and weld in place using an Arc-welder or preferably a Mig-welder. Remember that you are welding to a thin steel exhaust component, not a battle ship and excessive power and heat is not needed. Step 5 - Reinstall the exhaust into the vehicle, apply nickel anti-seize compound to the new sensor fitting threads, install the sensor and torque to specification (22 lb-ft / 30 Nm) then apply silicone dielectric grease to the sensor electrical connector pins and connect the sensor to the vehicle harness. Ensure that the connector and the wiring is properly secured preventing contact with the hot exhaust system or other moving parts under the vehicle. Article and Images by Keith Browning and Jeff Eichen View full record
  7. Fuel System UV Dye-agnosis

    Detecting and pinpointing fuel system leaks can be difficult and time consuming. Fuel being a fluid of light viscosity means that it can migrate quickly and mix with other fluids. This is especially true for fuel systems with components that are located inside an engine and hidden under covers. This means that finding these leaks and verifying repairs is very important to prevent repeat repairs and severe engine damage. Safety is also another consideration with regard to any fuel injection system and even more so with high pressure common rail fuel systems. Fuel spray under high pressure will easily penetrate human skin, even through many types of gloves and risking exposure must be avoided. Fuel injected into the skin can poison blood, cause flesh damage and infections resulting in removal of fingers and limbs or even cause death. Adding ultra-violet tracer dye to fuel will help identify and pinpoint fuel leaks and help promote safety. Old-timers might recall a time when running a piece of cardboard or paper along fuel pumps, lines and injectors was a common method of locating leaks. Using dye and an ultra-violet lamp keeps your body at a safe distance during inspections. Diagnostically speaking the use of tracer dye is by far superior than any other visual method because the dye is extremely visible even when a small leak is present. The following two photographs show two examples of tracer dye being used to diagnose fuel leaks on 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engines that have a high pressure common rail fuel system. In the first example a smaller, slow leak at the fuel inlet fitting that otherwise might not have been easy to find. The second example another injector is leaking at the upper body nut and is a fairly large leak that was fairly obvious to see with the naked eye yet difficult to be absolutely sure that it also was not just engine oil splashing off of the adjacent valve components. To use, add one bottle of UV Tracer Dye to the fuel filter housing - secondary or engine mounted filter on multiple filter systems. Typically the bottles contain about 3-ounces and you need to be sure to use dye formulated for use with oil based fluids. NOT water based dyes (coolant) or refrigerant dye (air conditioning). Then prime the system and run the engine for about fie minutes to get the dye mixed with the fuel and circulating within the system. Shut the engine down and begin searching for external leaks with a UV lamp. For internal engine leaks access the components to be inspected then inspect with a UV lamp. On some engines with electric fuel pumps you may drain the engine oil and leave the drain plug out. Turn the fuel pump on with a scan tool capable of bi-directional control and wait to see fuel dripping from the crankcase. The presence of dye will simply confirm the fact that fuel is leaking... validating the need to access valve covers or pumps and continue inspecting. In some instances it may be necessary to run the engine while inspecting for leaks. Example 1 Example 2 View full record
  8. BETA stuff

    I am starting to like my avatar. I might have to keep it!
  9. BETA stuff

    You are weirding me out man!
  10. Bus

    How many of these have you done?
  11. Barbecue Grill

    Ooooh that sucks!
  12. Barbecue Grill

    What kinda grill are talking about here? With your experience and mechanical aptitude a silly ol grill should be easy.
  13. Picture

    Go to the top right where your user name is and click on the little arrow to drop down a menu. Select PROFILE and on the top where your avatar is/should be is a little picture of a camera. Click on it to upload your avatar. You can do the same thing with the header background for your profile
  14. Picture

    How are you doing it now? Or do you mean how do you go to the first unread post? As I recall I had to edit something or change a setting on my end. I'll check my notes. THese are the little things I need to tweak!
  15. rodentTape2.jpg

    I needs the tape wif the dead meeses

    © Honda Motor Co. of America

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