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66glide

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    David
  • Last Name
    Leduchowski
  • Location
    Teulon, MB, Canada
  • Dealership Name
    Integrity Auto

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  1. I have done a lot of rebuilds on these. They last ok here in rural Manitoba, and are way cheaper than a new shaft. They also bring in more labour hours.
  2. https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/02/heres-what-you-need-to-know-about-fords-new-7-3l-v8/
  3. 66glide

    Man!

    This place is quiet!!!!!!!!!
  4. Your fuel pressure regulator might be leaking fuel into the vacuum line and causing a "hot start flood" no start. That is quite common.
  5. I'm 52 years old. I just sold my shop to my employee. I have a sore back, sore hips, sore shoulders, sore knees. Pretty much constantly. The nice thing now is no stress. I intend to work toward teaching as a "semi-retirement" job, and keep tinkering with and riding my old Harleys. Keith, I feel you. At your age, I'd be looking at trying to get out and do something different within the next few years. Best wishes!
  6. Good day folks. First, I have used IDS, Wi-tech, Tech 2, MDI, NGS, and many other factory scan tools. I fully realize that no aftermarket tool can compare with OEM tooling. Having said that, I am interested in purchasing an Fcar F7G-S. This tool claims to read codes/data and do numerous bi-directional and functional tests on automotive, school bus, highway trucks, agricultural, and construction equipment. I like the varied capabilities, as my "semi-retirement" work has me doing a lot of weird shit! I am wondering if anybody here has ever used one? It certainly looks good, but they all look good until trial shows what they CANNOT do! Link below. F7SG Master TabPro | FCar Tech USA, LLC
  7. I'd go with CAT. Unless it required night shift. Fuck that shit!
  8. I seal EVERYTHING with it because it is absolutely the best silicone I have ever used!
  9. Steve, I usually cut the cable, then strip 3/4" or so of the casing off and slide heat shrink tube onto the cable. Then, use a pair of vise grips to hold the cable end of your choice and heat it while melting solder into the "bowl" where the cable goes. Hold the cable pointing down and insert it into the cable end full of molten solder. Hold till it cools enough to harden, (Ideally have someone nearby to pour water on it), slide the heat shrink down and shrink it. This makes for a permanent neat repair without overheating and melting the cable insulation.
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