66glide

I have done a lot of rebuilds on these. They last ok here in rural Manitoba, and are way cheaper than a new shaft. They also bring in more labour hours.

https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/02/heres-what-you-need-to-know-about-fords-new-7-3l-v8/

Bahahaha!!

This place is quiet!!!!!!!!!

Your fuel pressure regulator might be leaking fuel into the vacuum line and causing a "hot start flood" no start. That is quite common.

I'm 52 years old. I just sold my shop to my employee. I have a sore back, sore hips, sore shoulders, sore knees. Pretty much constantly. The nice thing now is no stress. I intend to work toward teaching as a "semi-retirement" job, and keep tinkering with and riding my old Harleys. Keith, I feel you. At your age, I'd be looking at trying to get out and do something different within the next few years. Best wishes!

Nuttin?

Good day folks. First, I have used IDS, Wi-tech, Tech 2, MDI, NGS, and many other factory scan tools. I fully realize that no aftermarket tool can compare with OEM tooling. Having said that, I am interested in purchasing an Fcar F7G-S. This tool claims to read codes/data and do numerous bi-directional and functional tests on automotive, school bus, highway trucks, agricultural, and construction equipment. I like the varied capabilities, as my "semi-retirement" work has me doing a lot of weird shit! I am wondering if anybody here has ever used one? It certainly looks good, but they all look good until trial shows what they CANNOT do! Link below. F7SG Master TabPro | FCar Tech USA, LLC

ROTFLMAO!!

I'd go with CAT. Unless it required night shift. Fuck that shit!

Just WAAAY more expensive than T31.

I have a tube of it, but have not tried it yet.

I seal EVERYTHING with it because it is absolutely the best silicone I have ever used!

Is this stuff sensor safe?

Steve, I usually cut the cable, then strip 3/4" or so of the casing off and slide heat shrink tube onto the cable. Then, use a pair of vise grips to hold the cable end of your choice and heat it while melting solder into the "bowl" where the cable goes. Hold the cable pointing down and insert it into the cable end full of molten solder. Hold till it cools enough to harden, (Ideally have someone nearby to pour water on it), slide the heat shrink down and shrink it. This makes for a permanent neat repair without overheating and melting the cable insulation.

You would think there would be a printed warning about this. I looked and I didn't find one. I wish there was. This education will be costly for me.

Good day folks. I need to know if I messed this one up. It came in for serp belts squeaky. I cut the old belts off and was attempting to install the stretchy PS belt. As it turns out, the one I have is too short. I ordered one from Ford, and lowered the car. I went to start the car to move it out of the bay, and it wont start. By the sound of it, clearly the timing chain is broken or jumped. My question is this...I did turn the crank pulley backwards manually about 1/8 of a turn. Please give me your knowledgeable and honest input...could doing this have screwed up the chain? The vehicle has only 105,000 km and the customer says it has been serviced regularly. I don't mind eating the repair, but i am wondering if it was me or am I just unlucky in this case. Thanks!

And now he is going to be pissed that you are charging him for the program since it still won't start!

That guy is a fucking idiot and an asshole to boot!

Ouch. I say let them write it off!

Yep. Ford is among the best for manuals, and the IDS is far and away one of the easiest factory tools to navigate. You gotta love those lousy track style wiring diagrams that BMW/Mercedes and other Euro imports offer. They are enough to make a person start smoking crack.

It is an awesome press and worth every penny. The OTC worked for me for years, but I sometimes felt like I needed a third hand to hold the adapters. The snap-on kit negates this with the circlip spring holders.

Yeah. I'm at my wit's end. I pulled the front shocks and steering shock again and stroked them. Neither has any apparent problem. There is no wear anywhere in the front end. I want to know what the alignment specs are. We do not do alignments, and the customer was not provided with a printout when he had it done elsewhere. I'm bailing on this one. He is a decent customer, but is weary of spending money without some idea of a result. I can't say I blame him. $900.00 when the dealer removed his front spring spacers and aligned it, another $250.00 when I did the track bar items. (although I did tell him that I am not guaranteeing that is the fix, just that there is some "in spec" wear.)

It is a very bad death wobble. I found if I lower the front tire pressures to 40 psi from the spec of 65, the concern is mostly gone. (maybe a bit of a "nibble" at best.)

Track bar bushing and ball joint were not successful in eliminating the concern.