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RyanG

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Posts posted by RyanG

  1. Have not tried this method. We have a local service called axle surgeons come out and replace the spindle. Only thing we have to do is strip the hub and parking brake assembly off. The spindle is cut off and they attach a jig and bore out the tube slightly. The replacement spindle is a slip in fit and weld it up. They can match what spindle is required off of the bearing numbers. Next time I get one I'll get some pics.

  2. Someone on the pts boards said something about Ford having Red Green working for them coming up with the fixes. Naturally I was curious to who Red Green is and got on youtube. That shit is hilarious.:haha2:

  3. In the middle of short blocking and 18 F250 6.7 - Broken piston cooling jet on cyl. 4

    10 F550 ambulance 6.4 high pressure turbo seized and plugged DPF

    14 F550 ambulance 6.7 with intermittent network concerns

    08 E450 ambulance 6.0 with low power complaint

    a couple of 17 F550's for check engine lights

    11 F250 6.7 injectors

    17 F750 6.8 cylinder head recall

    14 F350 6.7 bitching about mpg

    05 F450 6.0 dump truck for coolant leak and low power

    00 F550 7.3 ball joints

    14 F550 6.7 for SCR codes

    Same deal here, only guy that works on diesels. Have stuff sitting here for close to a month. Had 3 towed out last week, could not get to them fast enough. Its been like this for awhile now, starting to get burnt out.

     

  4. I was told that Ford no longer owns it by our warranty admin. but we don't know who has taken over. He has gone rounds with them many times as well. They seem to be experts at wasting peoples time.

  5. Yes. I unbolt everything so its ready to be removed. Loosen the CAC boots and take the 4 engine cross member bolts out, lower it a few inches and it will slide out the driver side. Be careful when lowering the engine, the crank pulley will touch the cooling fans so not to much or you might damage them. Good luck.

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  6. I would say minimum 12-15 and do it with the cab off. Being up north its safe to say there is a good amount of rust plus it gives you room to slide the turbo inlet pipe back off of the manifold flange. When it comes to getting the broken fastener out it doesn't make a difference in how big of a pain in the ass its going to be cab on or off. If its not broken off too deep in the head you might want to try tack welding the end of the bolt to build up enough metal to grab it with a turbo extractor socket instead of drilling. Good Luck.

  7. Don't forget the sub frame bolts that are always fucking seized in the control arms. I have done 2 EGR coolers, DEF heater and finished up a rear main seal on a 3.7 gasser last week. Our gas heavy repair guy and myself are always buried but I offered to help him out anyway. This fuckin place is really starting to get under my skin. Nobody in this place wants to work or help out unless its easy money so everything that is deemed too hard or time consuming by the gravy queens gets dumped off on a few select individuals no matter how busy we are. Sorry, just venting a little.

  8. I have done one and a partial cab lift is not necessary. You need to remove the cooling fan and stator, to get to everything in the front. The only pain in the ass will be the crank sensor which is wedged between the ac compressor and block. It also snakes up behind the alternator bracket which isn't a big deal. Unbolt it and remove the 2 nuts then slide it forward and snake the harness up from behind. Remove the oil separator to allow room to pull the harness out from that side. As for the stft on 2, I would say a compression test and fuel system inspection are a must before anything else so your not wasting your time. Like most 6.4's you will probably find the high pressure fuel system and the short block are on there way out.

  9. Have a question about choosing a tuner for a fellow tech in the shop. Backstory is he picked up an 08 F450 with a 10 ft. stake bed and an engine with cylinder 2 low compression - go figure. We took it out and did a full 0.010 rebuild with maxxforce pistons. He also did a dpf/egr delete and installed a Titan fuel tank along with new high pressure fuel system. He wants to keep the truck at a completely stock power level and needs a tuner so it will run obviously. I don't get into this kind of stuff and was wondering if anyone would have a recommendation on which brand would work best for his setup. Thankyou!

  10. Just had a 16 Transit cutaway with a service body. Complaint was battery goes dead after couple days. With all doors and hood open and latches in a closed position after an hour It was showing 10 milliamps. Let it sit over the weekend and still no draw, battery was new. Customer picks it up next morning, battery dead.:facepalm:Didn't get a chance to find the draw but I would suspect all the shit tied in to it or whatever was plugged in to the DLC drawing intermittently.

  11. Like I have said before, Ford and the dealers have created this mess. I'm with Zach on this one. If that's the way of thinking when you were still an employee than I don't think they deserve to have a technician of your caliber. We all know from experience that they will say just about anything to get you back in the door and if you do go back, chances are it will go right back to the way it was.

  12. When trying to increase or decrease pinion bearing preload, I start off with what I have and then add or subtract in the thinnest increments of shim thickness. Usually get it in 2 or 3 attempts. I've done enough of these now that I have become pretty comfortable. Like Keith said when it comes to a simple bearing replacement on Dana axles, I reuse all of the old shims and have yet to have one come out wrong. Sometimes you might be at the loose end or tight end but within spec. The best pinion marking to have is 00, you simply select your depth shim and assemble. If you have a plus or minus number, my understanding is to select your depth shim and then add or subtract from the thickness of the selected shim based off of the pinion offset markings. I started this topic at the time because I had up until that point never set up a Dana from scratch( new housing, differential, ring and pinion, bearings and shims). I find doing the diff. backlash and preload setup to be challenging due to trying to get consistent measurements for diff. case endplay. Dana is good about including complete shim kits with there ring and pinions but it also helps to have a few extra outboard spacers on hand to get everything right.

  13. Finally got the 15 6.7 used engine job done. What a total cluster fuck this was. After we found the contaminated hpf system in the first used engine, I was sent a second engine to put in after they declined me swapping over the original fuel system. Second engine shows up with turbo missing, crushed upper and lower oil pan, etc. 3rd engine shows up, unknown mileage, nothing capped off and find water inside. Insurance company finally approves fuel system swap so back in with the original used engine and assembled. This was all because insurance company did not want to approve additional labor time and parts cost to swap fuel system the first time.

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