Jeff_E

Notice how it has a FMC360 case number section? That means only someone with access to FMC360 like a service manager, has to file one of those first. So you have to get the SM on board before you can do anything. It's as if Ford doesn't wan't to receive any of these? 

There is a warranty cancellation request form you can search for on FMC, and you can select just the fuel system as an option if I remember correctly. Of course it will end up in a phone call to your dealer from some Ford rep who will simply tell you that unless YOU can PROVE that gasoline actually caused damage, that it has to be covered. So then you will perform a repair, only to have it get kicked because the aforementioned Ford rep will not give you a prior approval code, or be there to get the claim paid once kicked. 

Moral of the story is just send an email to hotline and let them decide what to do.

We had one this week.

Isn't TA-357 what they used from the factory? 

If it is, I'm not impressed.

TA-31 doesn't ever seem to become hard and start leaking like all of the black silicone variants seem to do after a few years. 

The only time I've ever had to do a factory installed 7.3 oil pan, was because the pans themselves rusted out. With properly prepared surfaces, TA-31 is a lifetime silicone in my opinion.

The engineers aren't just afraid of O2 sensor contamination though, they seem to have a fear of oil foaming. I'm less fearful of such things... Perhaps when they can build a half decent door latch I'll start to care what they think.

I use it for everything and haven't had any problems with contaminated O2 sensors. But even if I had to replace the occasional O2 sensor it would still be worth it.

Oh good, its probably one of those things that wouldn't act up if it had more than half a tank, but drop below that and she starts sucking air through the side of the tube where the orange thing used to be. Got to love used cars.

I hate to ruin the celebration, but it's possible you have found another symptom and not the cause... The only times I've ever seen the orange valve fall out was when the system had gasoline contamination. Granted it may have been done quite a while ago, but it puts in to question the integrity of the entire fuel system.

https://www.deweze.com/media/kit-manuals/700431F.pdf

It appears in this ^^^ so I'd give DewEze a call and see what they say.

^ You mean AB injectors right?

Found this info posted by RT at The Diesel Stop:

"A and AA injectors came in the '94-'97 non-california trucks. They are all 90cc injectors and are single shots. 

AB injectors came in the '97 cali, and all early '99 trucks. They are split shot injectors meaning they fire a small pilot shot before the main shot. These injectors flow 130-135cc of fuel. 

AC injectors are found in the high torque version of the T444E and do not come in any Powerstrokes. They have the same internals as the AB injectors with the exception of the single shot plunger and barrel. However due to them being single shot injectors they flow 160cc. This is due to the way the split shots work. They have a small passage that opens, much like a port in a two stroke engine, that are uncovered that bypass the injection pressure out the side of the barrel instead of out the end through the nozzle. Because of this pause a portion of the travel of the plunger does nothing for injecting fuel so a split shot injects less fuel for the same amount of travel as a single shot. 

AD injectors are also split shot but flow 135-140cc of fuel due to a slightly longer plunger stroke. These are found in all late '99-'03 Powerstrokes and T444Es.

AE and AF injectors are essentially the same as AD injectors but were called a long lead injector that was used as an attempt to cure a "cackle" issue many people complained about."

 

STC fitting might have a tiny leak, not enough to cause problems under pressure yet, but maybe enough of an air leak for an issue if it sits long enough.

Me too, that way I can blame the pharmacist (parts guy) if that doesn't solve the problem 

I agree with checking both ends of the track bar for any play as a first step. Often times I will get this concern as a comeback after someone has already done the track bar  and alignment fix to no avail. When that happens, I will make sure nothing else is loose before prescribing new front shocks and the Rancho dual steering stabilizer kit, which our local Napa keeps in stock. I realize that as a dealer tech, relying on an aftermarket fix doesn't quite feel right, but it has always worked for me. And these truck drive so much nicer after that kit is installed.

I use petroleum jelly liberally and never had a problem.

My high school shop teacher, Mr. Frye always said: "Nothin goes together dry or dirty, if you don't learn it in my class you'll learn it in health."

I wonder what he meant by that 

I've had a couple 6.4's where the HP fuel system was so full of air it took quite a while to bleed out. I actually bleed the low pressure side first through the schrader with a hose from the old WDS fuel pressure test adapter which I have now re-purposed. Once it runs out of the low side without too many bubbles I then bleed the high pressure side with the adapter in the rear fitting of the fuel cooler until I get flow from that without too many bubbles. then I bleed from both simultaneously while jumping the starter to spin the HP pump. Then I command the LP pump to run and just let it flow from both bleed hoses for a while before I take my bleed adapters off the low and high pressure systems. Then I command the LP pump on again and let it circulate for a few minutes. 

If you do all that and still can't maintain FRP, then I'd be suspicious of the HP pump or one of it's valves. If I got to that point though I'd be looking real close at fuel quality for signs of metal or DEF... I know this one is a 6.4 and doesn't use DEF, but if it is from a construction company that has a fleet of trucks and a bunch of employees that don't know what they're doing, anything could have happened.

I kinda like that. I wish Ford would make that a supplied tool. Where did you buy it?

lifter roller bearing... or maybe nut from an injector solenoid?

If the 16B24 was one of the lines on the work order that the customer signed, then it's not your problem. You just did what you were told. If the truck doesn't run anymore because of illegal modifications, simply give him an estimate to return it to stock.

This way you will be in compliance with federal law and Ford specifications as any dealer tech should always be.

I think you're on the right track Keith. I have only had one turbo with seized vanes on a 6.7 and it set a P0234.

I'm in the same one ^^^

The E version I got from Israel through Ebay at this link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/D-link-DWA-131-Wireless-WiFi-N300-Nano-USB-Adapter-Dongle-Network-Windows-10-Mac-/261737081922?hash=item3cf0beec42:g:zRUAAOSwX~dWrzrZ

I took the plunge and upgraded my IDS laptop to windows 10 from 7. It is now working as it should, though at first I didn't have the ability to connect to the VCM wirelessly. Turns out the A and B version of the D-link dongles are not windows 10 compatible. Once I replaced both the laptop AND the vcm D-links with the newer "E" version I now have full functionality as I did with Win 7. I did have to download and install the D-link driver for the E version, but that's no big deal and you can get that online. Just don't forget to return your IDS software license and uninstall IDS and the Bosch software as per Fords instructions before doing the upgrade. That was a couple weeks ago when I got that all sorted out and I haven't had any problems with 10 since. I still have internet explorer pinned to the desktop instead of Edge for the sake of fmcdealer compatibility.

We have seen some stretched timing chains on 5.4 3v engines. Not as common as the ecoboost, but it still happens. Also may want to check base oil pressure when hot in gear with the vehicle not moving, if low, remove a few cam caps to check for scoring. The timing tensioner seals like to blow out causing reduced oil pressure to the cam journals, which then get scored and drop oil pressure even lower which starves the phasers. If you do see scored cam journals and caps you're not going to like the price of new heads, they usually get a long block at my dealer when we find that.

Our dealer took such a thing in on trade with a junk engine. We ended up buying a totaled vehicle from an insurance auction to use as a donor for everything we needed. Cost of the totaled donor vehicle was around $7,000. Plus a whole ton of labor.