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Chipped 6.0L's

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*Most* have the tell-tale box and jumper cable under the hood usually placed near the master cylinder. Still others even have a piggyback connector or jumper at the MAP sensor.

 

Mode 6 or mode 9 data (I can never remember which - I usually have to fumble for a minute) should give calibration level but you might have to have a good memory for what is a lefit number and what isn't.

 

I seem to get the odd one with a P0603 in memory and the CLRDIST PID at less than 10 kms or so... makes you go "Hmmmm.".

 

The Edge control panel or Banks 6 position switch on the dash can be a real good hint, too.

 

Some of the other guys might have their pet ways....

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There is no sure fire way to tell.

 

It is an accumulation of evidence. P0603, CLRDIST PID is exactly the distance from the owner's house to the dealership, "superchips" box behind the back seat, various stickers on the back glass, the words the owner uses while describing his/her vehicle, intake and exhaust modifications, a request to be informed prior to any reflashes, etc.

 

It's like pieces of a puzzle. Sometimes, if I think a truck is chipped, but I don't have enough evidence, I'll just ask the owner outright. I do it in person, and stick the question inbetween benign questions. Watch their reaction, and you'll be able to tell if they are lying when they say no.

 

One other thing - if it is important whether or not a truck is chipped, and the owner lies about it, and I find out later that they lied, they are screwed. I will nail them to the wall as hard as I can.

 

On the other hand, if someone is honest with me about modifications, I'd be much more inclined to repair the vehicle under warranty - even if the modifications are in a gray area. Head gaskets on a chipped vehicle? And you told me about the program when you dropped the truck off? And you were pretty cool - not some jerk dissin' his POS truck? Ok, I'll fix it and not say anything.

 

Besides, half the time when we don't honor the warranty based on modifications, and Ford gets involved, then we end up fixing it anyway. Then the dealer is seen as the jerk who tried to get the owner's warranty cancelled, and Ford looks like the good guy. I'd much rather look like the good guy than FMC.

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Thanks for the replies. I remember that the 7.3's were pretty obvious with the p0603. I thought there might be a "cut and dry" way to tell with the 6.0L's too. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

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