tec80

Ford used to employ a press-in-place seal for upper pan to block, and did not machine the upper pan flange.  Now they use RTV in place of the PIP seal but they machine the flange.

Looks like the rocker fulcrums are Duratec SHLAs (Stationary Hydraulic Lash Adjusters) mounted upside-down in the upper cam bearing block. Pretty slick! There is an oil passage that feeds them and possibly the cam bearings too.

From the dipstick tube routing proximity to the turbine housing, that oil dipstick could be red-hot (right where you initially grab it to wipe it off) if the engine was worked hard immediately prior to checking the oil.

I say 75% chance this becomes a 2015 F150 Atlas option.

Oil pressure relief valve tapping against the stop at hot idle? That's what it ended up being on 3.8/4.2...

Hey, I designed those S-60 pan & rocker cover systems with the black gaskets! You can also tell the pan versions apart by the bolt/spacer/isolators, they are fully encapsulated on the new version vs. visible in the side cutouts on the old version. Dana (Plumley Div. in Paris, TN) made the sealing system for those new pans/rocker covers - same supplier as the 6.7!

LARRYATSTI: Side note....Detroit Series 60 has used plastic pans for years...Real bitch though, the original was replaced and the only way to tell if it is original or new style is the color/colour of the gasket, grey or black. I hope this is a real good design and a new version not needed otherwise it will be a bitch.

Engine oil getting into the combustion chamber WILL melt pistons and exhaust valves. Had this problem during development of the 4.5L Duramax, was due to PCV oil pullover.

I think that lower pan is plastic...

>i hope the guys that made this strategy up is getting paid good

Unfortunately, we all left Ford at the end of February...

Looks like it. Check for a wire chafe at the PCM branch where it runs over the front of the left rocker cover, also see if the harness is chafing on the intake bolt head near the MAT sensor.

Check the oil cooler when you have an EGR cooler failure. The EGR cooler is fed from the oil cooler, which happens to have the smallest internal passages in the entire cooling system. Any crap in the cooling system will stick in the oil cooler, which will then cut off flow to the EGR cooler.

Unplug the EBP and look at the pins of the sensor with a lighted magnifying glass. Are they corroded or do they have black fuzz on them? If so, water is probably getting in there through the connector seals or through the sensor (from the exhaust side between the plastic connector shell and the pins).

Another thing to try - just unplug and reconnect the EBP connector about 5 times. If the gremlins disappear, there is definitely something contaminating the pins.

Putting a schrader valve in the cap will only test the frame-mounted filter, it's on the dirty side of the secondary.

CAC tubes like to be retorqued, as the hoses take a set with time and temperature cycling. The hot side takes the most set. Try this:

- After installing the hot-side CAC tube, drive the vehicle for 15 minutes or so.

- Bring it back in, let cool for 1/2 hour.

- Check all of the clamp torques. All will need retorquing, and I bet the clamp at the CAC inlet will take at least 1 full turn to come back to the 12Nm spec.

Why not just use an actual plastic windshield scraper? They are available everywhere for $3.

Scotch-Brite pads have aluminum oxide in them, the shrapnel they leave behind can kill bearings if it gets into the oil.