Mekanik

What kind of problems?  This thing has had a very intermittent no crank, and I also have a low coolant lamp that stays on.

It’s a 98 Regal.  Why do you say ignition switch?

6 hours ago, 8WA Sman said:

Watch your speed signal pids from your IC module (18x or 24x) or whatever the numbers are.

Also check the coils & make sure they are not getting super hot.

What's the theft light doing?

I’m out of the business and can’t check pids.  Can I test the sensor with a dvom?

The theft light was off.

Hello Diesel Doctors!  This is my own vehicle, a 2008 Buick Regal with a supercharged 3.8L engine and 204K miles.  The vehicles has a crank no start when the engine is restarted hot. This morning when it would not restart I was able to verify spark and I had fuel squirt out of the schrader valve.  I couldn't hear the fuel pump but it seemed like it had enough fuel pressure based on what was squirting out of the schrader valve.  I checked for codes when I got home and the only code was a P440 for evap, which I've had for a while.

I've been out of the business for about  2.5 years, so I might be a little rusty.  I did replace the crank position sensor on this car about 10 years ago for stalling when hot so I'm thinking maybe that's what's going on here, but by time I thought about that I was away from the vehicle.  

Does anyone have any ideas or know of common problems?  When I was in the business I worked on mostly Fords.  

Thanks in advance!

Great news and kudos for taking the plunge to better yourself and your family life! Not everyone has the guts or motivation to do that! Best of luck with the new venture and like keith said stick around.

 

 

Good luck,I am coming up on 29 years of this headache we call automotive repair!

Thank you! 29 years, that's a really long time!

I worked at my dad's shop from the age of 12 till 19, then after graduating HS, went to work at a dealership. Been a constant struggle ever since. Just started a fleet job last month. Pretty much like working for myself but with OVERTIME! I was never a great flat-rape tech. Just found the whole idea stressful.Wish i had worked harder at moving into the parts side of things 20 years ago. Too late now. 10 more years of busting my butt then off into the sunset! Good luck dude.

Remember, the person that succeeds is the person that doesn't give up. I get the impression you are not the type to give up. Good luck to you.

Good luck,I am coming up on 29 years of this headache we call automotive repair!

Thank you! 29 years, that's a really long time!  

Good luck to you! I know you will do well.

We will all miss your input here.  

Enjoy your time with the kids!

Thank you!

Good luck and all the best, more and more I am seeing that flat rate jobs are not the best for family life.

Thanks Steve!  Yes, if it wasn't for the flat rate system I probably would have never wanted to leave the business in the first place.  Good luck to you too!

Good luck and I wish you success! But you don't HAVE to say goodbye - once a DTS member, always a DTS member.

That's good because I just bought my wife an Explorer and I'm going out today to buy a high cube.  

I realize I haven't been very active on DTS in the last few years so many of you may not remember me, but I wanted to take a moment and say goodbye.

After almost twenty-three years I have decided to leave the automotive business.  I spent a lot of time in here back in the day when I was working on a lot of 7.3L's and 6.0l's.  I got a lot of help in these forums and I am very grateful for this website and all the information and help that it provided.I can say that I am a very good tech, but owe a lot of the credit to this website and all of you.  from the bottom of my heart, thank you all.

You guys want to know what I'm doing????

It started three years ago, almost to the day.  It was a friday afternoon and I was so aggravated with the business and lack of control if we'll have enough work, will I get a decent job or only get paid a fraction of my time.  I remember I stopped what I was doing and looked around.  Without even thinking about it I heard the voice in my head say, "I've got to get out of here!"  At that moment I was more afraid of doing nothing than I was of doing something else and failing.

I spent some time looking into buying a franchise and some other business models.  I was close to buying a franchise, but ended up backing out.  I spent some time dealing with a franchise broker, but was never really excited about anything he had to offer.I ended up starting a food blog, that I am earning some money from on ads.  I started my own importing business where I import products from China and sell them on the internet, mostly Amazon right now.  In addition to that I'm in the process of buying a distribution route for Snyders pretzels.  

Not only will I have more money than being a dealer tech, but I'll have a lot more free time and not nearly as much stress.  I'll be home probably before my kids get home from school, and I'll be the parent that takes my daughter to gymnastics in the afternoon.  This is what excites me the most because I'm a family man.  

Anyway, thank you all and farewell.

Very cool Keith!

For more clarity on my hot IPR problem - I had the truck running in the parking lot/bay as well but it never failed. The truck HAD to be driven and not just around the block before the IPR would fail. It really needed the engine to get loaded and make some heat. And I concur that most IPR failures are due to debris from my experience. I may even still have that IPR too!

Very much like this customer's complaint; it happens when he's towing.  I put an IPR on it so we'll see what happens?  

I saw this once on a 6.oL - after about 20-30 minutes of driving the engine would shut off and not restart until it cooled. Passed air test as mentioned. I discovered that the IPR was failing when it got hot. As I recall, the coil resistance went way high as it got hot. Left the meter on it for a couple of hours and watched the resistance come back down. New IPR fixed it. To be honest this was the only IPR I had ever see do this.

That's interesting.  The only IPR's I've seen fail so far have failed due to debris in the screen, and this screen was fine.  I had this thing running at a high idle all afternoon yesterday and it didn't stall.I'm going to put an IPR in the truck and we'll probably have someone give it a good road test, then give it back to the customer. Thanks for the reply Keith!

One way to test that is to get it so it will stall at the shop and give the IPR a blast of cold water. If it starts up right away, you have your culprit. Used to use a bag of ice cubes on the 7.3L's that did this.

Good idea!  I used to bring a couple gallons of cold water when i would go on a test drive with 7.3l's that I thought had a bad CMP.

I looked at the truck and now it has a P2623 for IPR open circuit.  I think you're on to something.  

I did not replace the IPR, at least yet.  I haven't had a chance to look at the truck since it's been back.  That is the most logical thing though, you're right.

I've honestly thought they've been able to do this for years.Interesting though they're actually calling you guys out on it.

I air tested it again and didn't hear any gurgling from the filter housing.  So I replaced STC fitting on the pump with the new style.  I was really against this, but we gave it back to the customer and it did the same thing.  

I took a look at that post batmantech, thanks for linking to that.  I have to think that if I did have a leak that was bad enough to shut the engine off i would at least see SOME leak with the engine cold.  So it's back to the drawing board! 

Those fittings with the bracket can still leak. They were just a quick fix whilst the one piece fitting was being designed. I would take the fitting apart and have a look at it while you have the cover off.

That's a good idea.  My only other option is to put it back together and get it to stall again, then re test it.Do you think the STC fitting would cause it to leak bad enough where the engine will shut off?  I really don't think it's a pump.  I think it this mechanical pump were to fail it wouldn't just happen when it's warm. 

Hello everyone!  I'm working on a 2005 F250 with a 6.0L.  The customer's complaint is that it shuts off when towing and will restart after ten minutes.  I did verify this yesterday when the vehicle stalled on a road test.  I was able to confirm that I didn't have enough high pressure oil (about 200psi at the most).  I let the vehicle sit for a couple hours and it started right up.  I took it back to the shop and air tested the HP oil system.  It sounded like it had a leak...This morning I removed the HP pump cover and can see that it doesn't have the latest STC fitting, but the quick disconnect with the bracket.  I air tested it and it doesn't have any leaks.  Just the small amount of air bleeding out the hole on the back of the pump (a normal amount)

Now I plugged in the block heater in hope that the engine will get warm enough where I can find the leak.

Has anyone seen this before?  I know that it should get the latest one-piece STC fitting, but it seems fine now.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I was thinking about him a few days ago; a little scared to come here and check on how he's doing.

 I consider myself lucky to be influenced by him.  There were times when I was unsure how to do something with a vehicle and I would think to myself, 'What would Jim Warman do?'  Because he always seemed to do the 'right thing', not necessarily and almost never the 'easy thing'.

 He will be missed...

Oh No, I'm so sorry to hear this news about Jim.  He will definitely be missed.

30 hours for every one I do.insurance pay's because they say this falls under an accident.

WOW!!!  I've got one here where the customer put half a gallon of DEF in the fuel tank and ran it for 5 minutes.

Hey guys, I'm replacing the transmission on a 99 F350 with a 7.3L and an E4OD.  The tab on the solinoid body connector (right side of transmission) broke off.  The part is completely obselete from Ford, but I was hoping some of you may have crossed this bridge and have found a solution.  Maybe an aftermarket connector?

Thanks in advance,

Jim