Keith Browning

Rotunda tool number 418-665 if you have not seen it you should go find it in your dealership. This article supersedes TSB 17-0067 to update the Service Procedure and Parts List. Issue: Some 2017 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.7L diesel engine built on or before 04-Aug-2017 may exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P203B. This may be due to a low voltage condition during engine cranking. To correct the condition, reflash the diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) reductant level sensor/quality module using the Urea Sensor Reprogramming tool. Action: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition on vehicles that meet all of the following criteria: • 2017 F-Super Duty • 6.7L diesel • Built on or before 04-Aug-2017 • Illuminated MIL with DTC P203B

Maybe. You need to consider that as dealer techs the older models disappear from our bays and we are continually fed the newest models... that are covered by warranty. My heavy engine stand has not seen an engine in a few years now. I use it for transmissions now.

Don't recall the brand but they were all terrain... and of course its 4WD stock suspension with no lift.

Examples? Sources?

As dealership technicians we are bound by Ford's policies and procedures when repairing vehicles which means we can only use Ford OEM and Motorcraft parts. With that said, I am looking for an aftermarket solution for a stubborn truck that refuses to let go of the front axle/steering oscillation over certain bumps on curves at 50+ MPH. I want to know what aftermarket solution has actually worked for you to reduce or eliminate this. At this point the truck in question, a 2011 F250 Diesel that has new steering linkages, new shocks, Monroe steering damper and good tires set to specification. The caster has also been set to reduce this as well. This was just dropped in my lap... I see nothing left other than to over dampen. I did adjust the steering gear meshload because it was sloppy which did make a huge difference in how the truck feels but as you know that has no affect on this condition.

Been waiting for the hammer to fall on this. Too many techs resealing front covers that don't leak. I wonder what the forthcoming TSB will bring us. Jul 30 2020 0572 - 2015-2019 F-Super Duty, 2016-2019 F-650/F-750 - 6.7L - Oil Leak Diagnosis Some 2015-2019 F-Super Duty and 2016-2019 F-650/F-750 vehicles equipped with a 6.7L engine may exhibit an oil leak from the oil filter, crankcase vent oil separator, oil cooler, upper/lower oil pan. This may be due to a clogged crankcase vent oil separator and/or a sealing concern. Do not remove/replace the engine front cover for upper oil pan leaks. Do not check for warpage on the upper oil pan.When the upper oil pan is not bolted to the vehicle, it has a natural tendency to twist slightly due to the manufacturing process for the pan and will not result in an oil leak. The Workshop Manual (Section 303-00 > Diagnosis and Testing >Engine > Engine Oil Leaks) provides information on the usage of fluorescent oildye to locate the source of an oil leak. Refer to GSB Oil Leaks Weeps And Seepsfor more oil leak diagnosis. Continue to monitor OASIS for updates.

Nice! Show us the completed job? I with I had the time and money to do similar projects in my home. *sigh*

I have a Transit waiting for it's possible 3rd engine - I had the factory engine out when the truck was new for a leak at the rear main cover... since then it had a used engine installed and when it failed I replaced it with a new long block back in December. Now it is back with low compression in cylinder #1 and the right turbo is wasted. I think I will be going with the out the front option this time just for the experience.

There are really only two places common to fuel and oil: injectors and the cylinder heads. Usually a fuel sample will reveal "black fuel" if oil is getting into the system.

I am an equal opportunity complainer when I spy with my little eye a fucked up piece of engineering that could have been corrected long ago. Even if one of those bolts broke off in the turbo housing I would have repaired it. Stupid reason to replace the turbo IMHO. I am still wondering if my core charge will be charged for cutting up the actuator housing but the fact that the part I pulled out of the box was completely new I am thinking not. Other techs that have had to resort to similar tactics in dealing with this say they never heard anything about it.

Can't say I was not warned about this. Yeah... just remove the 4 bolts and take it off the turbo! I had to drill the hex head off of the bolt after it stripped out due to rust then I had to work on it and pry the damn thing off but it would not budge until I cut a slice out of the housing. The remaining "stud" came out easily after that. Why in God's name did they design that one bolt hole through the actuator housing to be open to the atmosphere? It's right next to the turbine housing and it rusted and seized inside of the hole. WTF!

SSM 45616 - 2016 F-Super Duty - Multiple Diagnostic Trouble Codes(DTCs) And/Or Symptoms - Inspect Body Control Module(BCM) For Water/Moisture/Corrosion - Built On Or Before 11/10/2015 Some 2016 F-Super Duty vehicles, built on or before 11/10/2015 may exhibit multiple symptoms that could be related to a water leak from the windshield A-pillar area on the passenger side. This condition is evidenced by signs of water, moisture, or corrosion at the connectors, pins, fuses or relays in the BCM (Base 15604). Refer to Workshop Manual Section (WSM) 419-10 for BCM access. If a water leak is identified, follow updated WSM Section 501-11 for diagnosis and repairs and reseal the windshield. Use available Service Labor time Standards (SLTS). Follow normal warranty policy manual for warranty coverage.

That does not include diag I assume. I think Chrysler labor ops were 1.3 or 1.8. Where did you source this information Hoe?

So what are you all seeing with A/C problems with the new gen trucks? Most of the time one rolls in with the A/C blowing warm, fully charged and the pressures stuck high. Discharge and recharge to unstick the TXV and they cool. Inspecting the TXV and you find nothing - no evidence of debris from a failing compressor or desiccant bag... and I am not buying the EVAP temp sensor theory unless its giving an erratic voltage. Replacing the TXV has not proven to be 100% fix either. I understand a bulletin is forth-coming...

It's a 2015 Ford F750. I don't have the ESN handy at the moment (if you need that)

Since Ford no longer produces these trucks with Cummins engines and all the trucks we sold are now out of warranty, we were dropped from dealer staus and now have a fleet account. his means I can't use EDS which can populate the labor times in the diagnostic session so I have no clue. Labor times as far as we can tell are not published, just generated on line in the session and warranty claims. I did ask my Chrysler warranty admin and he looked it up for a Dodge application and it pays 1.3... can't say that includes diag time or the calibration procedure... but Chrysler pays shit for diag. With diag, draining the coolant, checking the turbo movement, replacing the actuator, performing the heuristic test and ECM update I am thinking at least 4.5hrs.

Need an idea of the labor time for a 6.7L Cummins turbo actuator replace and calibrate.

Replacing a failed turbo on a brand new '19 F550. Man the exhaust filter is much easier to pull now not to mention all of the sensors loosened easily.

Just seems odd that it reportedly only makes oil in the first 500 miles and not the entire service interval. Find anything on this yet?

The medium duty applications still apply like WABCO and I imagine MD Truck too. Currently you needed the IC4 Com adapter for the 9-pin connection and I have used my Cummins INLINE6 adapter for those in the past. I wonder if you can use the VCM 3 with Cummins INSITE. You use the 16 pin DLC for the Power Stroke and Torqshift. It appears as thought the 9-pin cable for the VCM 3 is sold separately... However I have not been able to find the "Medium Duty Truck DLC Adapter" in the Rotunda Website, alone or with any of the offered kits. I guess it's a secret for now.

I have replaced CAC's for coolant loss so it stands to reason boost could be entering the system.

I don't think so but that would not account for the one I replaced the gaskets on. I know the nuts were torqued. The gaskets were splitting at the stud holes.

I have had a couple F750 trucks come in with spit/torn axle shaft gaskets, one truck is a 2X offender. There is nothing wrong with the hubs or the axles or the studs and nuts. My question is WHY if Ford using paper gaskets? As late as 2016 the same seals are the typical thin steel gaskets. If either of these trucks repeats I am considering using the old steel gaskets but when it's warranty, that might not fly. Even still, I would consider doing so and documenting my findings thoroughly on the RO and possibly running it by the Hot-Line despite the fact they have no authority over parts or part usage. Anyone else see this?

Cornwell lists it at $299 USD. I picked it up on sale for $249

I recently picked this up from Cornwell Tools. Got tired of using home made test pins and leads. Sweet kit and has space to store a meter. Now that I have had a few weeks to enjoy it I am kicking myself for being stubbornly frugal. (that’s cheap for you laymen) 😂