ktmlew

How is the airflow from the vents? Lack of airflow accross the evap core can make high side go very high. Possibly a dirt or desbris plugged evaporator core?

Evaporator is clean. Ended up overcharging it by 4 oz. 40ish @ idle/46-47 at cruise. I suspect the AC machine needs scales calibrated. 

No identifer. Boss replaced orifice tube. But he has been known to install them backward. He started off chasing empty system. Was leaking at Shrader valve's. Think it may still have a leak. Tried locating with black light but nothing found. Truck has pretty blue anodized block off plates all over engine. Need to see what ECT is at.

Engine fan?  Commonly delays 30+ seconds with a slow increase/decrease as it changes.

Thanks. That's what this one is doing. Now need to see what RPM it max's out at. Chasing AC issue. 40 * at idle, 49-52 at cruise. Aftermarket all aluminum radiator.

Any ideas on reduced AC performance at road speed. More than 10 degrees temp increase from idle. 40* @ idle to 49*-52* at cruise speed.

Finally found the pinpoint test. Above 2800 fan rpm @ 2500 engine rpm at 100% duty cycle. Delay is normal.

How much delay should there be when running the duty cycle up? Have an A/C issue. 39* at idle 53 on the road. When in bay with machine connected LS 25-30 HS 170-280. Raise RPM to 2200 and LS cycles 20-50 but HS will sometimes go past 350. Eventually fan WILL come on but duct temp has gone way up by then. from 39-50ish. If you get the fan speed up, still indicates "low speed", HS stays down in the 170 range and cools better. Has aftermarket aluminum radiator, tuner, etc.

For example: 2008 F-350 6.4 fan control. How long should it take for fan speed to change when scrolling up the duty cycle?

39 degrees at idle and it's hot and humid here. But...53* at cruise speed. Stop, cold. The cooling fan seems really slow to respond. If I command fan to 90%, takes it 20-60 seconds to respond. If rpm at 2300 high side goes 350 plus until fan finally catches up. When commanding fan duty cycle how much delay should there be? Has aftermarket aluminum radiator, programmer, bro-dozer tires/wheels, etc.

Learned something. These apparently won't crank if the interia switch is popped...crap.

P1832 & P1876...off to look at pinpoint tests. Could be fuse 35 is SJB. Checked all the fuses but will re-do.

It has some transfer case codes. Bet i didn't plug in control module. It's right of passenger air bag i believe.

No joy. Cranks 2-5 seconds. Then have to clear codes to get it to crank again. Going to pull dash out... Wednesday!

I has a programmer. No EGT's. Straight pipe. I did as-built on cluster. Now to reinstall programmer so it maybe will start.

TPMS

Found guy on YouTube doing one. Removed radio/airbag/glove box. Removed screw from lh side of long duct and pushed it toward radiator. Then removed other duct that is in the way. Got mine all back together...no start. Will crank for about two seconds after you clear codes. Only codes are for tons and transfer case. Going to try PMI on cluster and maybe reprogram keys? I've just about taken all the dash back out looking for wiring issues. Makes no sense.

Are you guy pulling the instrument panel back on the RH side to do these? That one damn duct it's behind just doesn't want to come out.

Chevy gas half tons have a problem with tank to core seperation. They have actually recalled some. They blame it on excessive thermal cycling due to a faulty thermostat. I would be curious to put temp probes into the end tanks of a 6.4 truck and see what is up. I have changed way more rads on pavement pounders than bush units by far. I don't buy the flex theory. 

I've always thought it was thermal shock. Shit be boiling somewhere. Something has to give.

30k? Time to trade it in, not service it.

Nope. Time for 2nd oil change.

Jeeze look at the date sticker!

EXACTLY! It was sooooo old i mis-read it. DOH! It fired right up after sitting all weekend. Not sure if the truck is still at the shop or not. I'll check tomorrow.

EGR Flow = IAT2 sees ^100* increase when EGR valve commanded open at cruise speed. 

I hate when i do dumb shit. Hate it more when i publicize it...new/old battery?

Other tech has it apart. Cooler was seeping at up-pipe end. About 1/3 plugged with carbon too. They will have cooler welded shut. Deletes are done around here all the time.

Replaced battery. Now we wait. I think that's all that was wrong. I'm an asshole about battery condition. Check them every time I raise a hood. This appears to be brand new. Nope. Will attach picture later.

Diagnostic process my ass...what appears to be brand new battery has a label that says 7/10. It's junk. Christ.

When short is present headlights come on and can not turn them off. Can not disconnect main power wire to CJB. Or at least is so tight i suspect will break terminal loose. I disconnected 6 terminal connectors from CJB and reconnected one at a time. No short for about 2 minutes.