Bruce Amacker

Mitchell On Demand shows pretty much the same thing.

Alldata: 2007 Ford Truck Escape 4WD V6-3.0L VIN 1 Vehicle » Starting and Charging » Charging System » Alternator » Parts Information Parts Information OEM Part # Price Alternator 1 - Alternator 8L8Z10346A $324.23 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Alternator Replace Includes: R&I Transfer Case. Includes: R&R Intermediate Shaft Seal. NOTICE: On All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles, the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) seal must be replaced every time the intermediate shaft is removed. Skill level B Warranty 0.0 Time 7.8

Don't forget half of you guys are in Canada and the dollar is weaker there compared to the US. It's getting better, though. A couple of months ago it was $1.45 CAD for one USD, today it's 1.26 CAD for one USD. Certainly that enters into the equation. Keith: Can we put member's location on the avatars? I have to keep clicking on the avatar to see the profile 'cause I can't remember where each member lives.

If you are not being paid fairly, prepare a resume, take a day off work, and walk into several competing shops to see what they will offer you. You're in a big city and there's a shortage of techs everywhere, certainly there are many dealers and indys that would jump at the chance to hire a good young tech. They are hiring even if they are not running help wanted ads. My utility fleets are full of ex-dealer techs, approach the electric, water dept, city, and DOT fleets, even if they are not running ads. You can find each fleet manager's info online, e-mail them a resume. When you get some offers together, approach your current mgr and have a meeting with him. State your concerns and inform him of the other offers and see what he says. Sometimes the easiest way to get a raise is to say, "I quit". When I had my shop I paid my guys well, they had a fantastic benefits package that nobody could match, and I never had a tech leave over money. If the info you are presenting us is correct your leaders need shop management training. You should be the most expensive shop in town, not the cheapest. If you are the cheapest you groom a clientele of bottom feeders. That means you want to work at the most expensive shop in town, not the cheapest. When I had my shop and someone called for a phone quote, I told them in no uncertain terms that I was an expensive shop and if they were looking for the cheapest price I was not it. This saved me from doing very many phone quotes. We were also T&M rather than flat rate or book time. If I was doing a quote I took book time and added 10% for each year the truck was old (5 years old, add 50% to Chilton time). This helps cover the inevitable rust and stuck parts. Good luck to you.

Did you get your info? I was out of town last week. Check liner protrusion without o-rings, they've had problems with protrusion being wrong and causing HG problems. The sleeves have to be clamped down to check, IIRC spec is .002-.005" but I'll check if you need. Sometimes you have to cut the counterbores to correct the issue. Losing an injector tip is a pattern failure caused by air in the fuel, improperly bleeding the filter after changing it. There are TSBs on it and warnings. The T444E is a PITA to change the pan on, if the adapter bolts through the side of the pan there are tricks to change the o-ring without dropping the pan. Pan is RTV'd in place like a 7.3 PSD, but there is stuff in the way to drop it, so avoid doing so if possible if it's not rotted.

Look at an IPR/ICP graph while starting up. A happy healthy 6.0 will spike to 40ish% IPR while building ICP, if it flatlines high at 85% to build ICP something is wrong. We've had this in class and used it for diag on intermittent no-start/hard start situations to verify the complaint and verify the repair after replacing a part.

We were playing with a 2015 6.7 in class last week which leaves me with a lot of questions. Ford changed the PIDs again for soot/ash. These captures are all the same truck before and after regen: Why the discrepancies? I think I've mentioned this before, but I think Ford has the PID labels switched. If DPF load goes to zero and Soot load won't go to zero, that suggests to me that Soot Inferred is actually Ash (because it won't go to zero) and "load" is soot because it WILL go to zero after regens. In my opinion, there should be two pids, "soot" which goes to zero after regens, and "load" showing the calculated accumulation of ash over miles. Comments?

FYI, in case you didn't know it, the FP PID is in absolute. We connected a FP guage on it to verify, and it's accurate if you subtract Baro. Too bad they didn't give us a _A or something to tell us that. The WSM gives a pressure but doesn't spec gauge or absolute and forgets to tell you the Pid is absolute. The 14PSI+ difference is probably enough to screw somebody up. These captures are obviously 64PSI actual on the gauge..........

It was either not warmed up, above idle, or had a DTC stopping Perdels. They can't all be zero.

The UL comment was supposed to be a joke. That's a late truck and should have Perdels in datalogger. Didn't Perdels show the weak cyls?

Is that UL listed? You're dealing with high voltage there, ya know.

It's a pattern failure across all HEUI engines, IMO caused by the HPOP pulsations. Early 6.0s had the round 7 plunger pump, late went to a V4. Less pistons, larger displacement per piston, larger pulsations, more pulsation damage. They need a big pulsation dampener which they tried by going to the W manifold, which traps a large amount of air in it at all times. The damage is eaten O-rings anywhere in the HO system. Keith has a great pic of the 6.0 injector inlet with the O-ring eaten up but I can't find it.

When I talk about this in class, I suggest leaving the snap ring in place to avoid ER visits, tetanus shots and stitches. Every time I have a pick in my hand and start fighting something like this, there's a little guy sitting on my shoulder going, "This is really not a good idea....."

If the retaining clip, spacer and top of the injector are fine, leave them alone. Pick the D-rings out and replace them.

I'm on board with Keith, and 1 hr even seems on the light side. Don't short yourself, you need to keep in mind the ops you lose your ass on.

I've never seen that. Do you happen to know where that is stated? Thanks!

Agreed on water testing, see TSB 10-12-1 which uses a litmus strip for testing water to be put in a rad. Euro cars are much more sensitive to wrong coolants damaging parts, lots of Euro techs I know use bottled distilled water in cooling systems.

We've already been down this road, see here: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/3946-who-makes-the-best-tool-box/?hl=krl1003&do=findComment&comment=37556 http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5928-hmmmmm-what-it-be/page-2?hl=krl1003&do=findComment&comment=58133 I have a SO KRL1003 pictured in the second thread, I bought it used 20-30 years ago and it's still in excellent condition. See the pics, if it was buffed and a few nicks touched up it would pass for a one year old box. If you look at used boxes look for rust in the lower area- if a shop scrubs the floor every night it (and the soap) wrecks a box. We used oil dry and rarely washed our floors, they were always spotless. I can't remember what I paid for the box, maybe 40% of what it would have cost from a driver and it was maybe 2 years old when I bought it. I bought the end cab last year for $600 off CL (it lists for $3000 right now), it was in perfect condition. It was red so I shot it cranberry to match, I had the paint matched at a PPG body store. Only a box junky would know it wasn't OEM. In that pic the paint was fresh on the end cab but the main box is very dusty. The "hubcaps" have surface rust on them that would clean off. Don't buy a new box, your best bang for the money is a used SO or Mac bought off Craigslist. There's plenty of guys leaving our business or retiring and selling their boxes. You can buy a used Snappy box that will outlive you for under half of the best deal you'll get on a tool truck. Don't fall for the BS pitch the driver gives you, no matter what he says, he's still making thousands of dollars on a toolbox. If you play your cards right you could get a check from the insurance co, buy a used box, paint your old one and sell it on CL. You could pocket a few grand doing this.

How are you going to squeeze the kids and all their crap into that little car? Going from a SUV to that must be a shock. The girls are teenagers by now, right?

Sooooooo, how do you tell if a 6.7 has ELC, Dexcool, or Toyota Red in it? They're all red in color.

Plus the stupid "fits all" coolants sold at every parts store and Kmart. I have to fight this battle in every class, too. Usually the techs are on board with using the correct stuff but upper fleet mgt specs one tank. Several of them have lived to regret it, multiple failures and back to OE they went. The hardest part with techs is getting them to believe that Dexcool red, Ford red, Toyota red, etc are not the same coolants.

THANKS! How about 6.7- I can't find that one either. BTW, where did you find it? Even Alldata said Ford doesn't publish one.

Did Ford publish one? I can't find it.

33miles= 53.1KM IIRC both Ford and IH used 33 early on but Ford dropped it to 25 later. I don't get worried until: Avg MPH Guidelines: 30+- Excellent 25-30 Acceptable Under 20- Yellow flag Under 15- Red flag I did a 6.7 lately with a 44ish MPH which was the highest I've seen lately. I also have a DT with about the same I use in class in KC.