zog

Just a follow up, the customer has had the truck back for a while now and has had no issues starting it. 

Good call guys, it didn't occur to me that typically when pulling the cooler i'm not pulling the pump. I hope that the damage to that pump is the root cause of my headache.

The saga continues, after seeing something went through the pump, pulled the oil cooler to inspect the screen, found the oil reservoir less than half full. I have never seen this before, usually they overflow in the valley. Any chance the reman block is porous?

Got the hpop out and disassembled, looks like some damage to the pump housing where the brass mates up to it, almost like a broken land. The brass component has what look to be the normal "v" cuts, but also have a "u" style marking at the edge of each port which I haven't seen before. The aluminum housing that contains the swash plate appears to have some damage (same as picture above) maybe indicating that there was some play between it and the pump housing. Suspect something went through the pump at some point in its life.

I have no problem letting them know we need to replace the pump, just trying to cover all other less intrusive options first. The handful of early built damaged pumps that I have replaced always had pid readings like Keith"s recording where the saw tooth pattern is on the pressure pid as well as the voltage pid coupled with low psi compared to desired. That being said there is certainly more experienced guys contributing to this forum than me. I just want  to make sure that my posts of  the recordings I have , match up with a potential damaged pump.  

Before exploratory surgery on the hpop, do you have any other recommendation. 

With the belt off, still have crank no start concern present. Keith is there any way to verify that the pump may be the root cause due to internal damage?

It does sound a bit slow cranking, nothing alarming. Checked the starter draw 230 amps, checked both positive and negative cables for high resistance, both are fine. Removed the belt this morning, truck started up with out issue, will try again through out the week.  

Keith, I have seen that problem with the pumps cracking as well on the early built 6.0, but couldn't remember if the icp psi pid was saw tooth as well. The other thing that swayed me away from that was how intermittent the concern is, can that create an intermittent concern that only happens cold? This vehicle got a short block and one head back in 2016, but the problem didn't start until a year later.  Hfcm is new, front cover and low psi pump, oil pick up tube, several injectors had been replaced over the course of two years, i'm sure i'm forgetting a lot. We installed two new batteries last week as well.

KDS, I felt the rpm seemed low too, but referred back to the Hard Start/ No Start diag sheet that lists 100 rpm as minimum. Icp voltage koeo .17v in some recordings .21v in others definitely low, but during my recordings with the truck starting with out issue they are the same so that kind of threw me for a loop.  Made a new recording this morning, the truck didn't start  (only a cold start issue), found battery voltage to drop to 10v while cranking. 

Brad, I checked the mating surfaces for both the cam sensor and crank sensor are free of any rust or scale. The engine has only been in this truck for 2 years now. 

I am chasing an intermittent no start/ start stall on a 4/03.  It may only happen once a week, but once the truck is started it will be fine for several days. Fuel pressure never seems to be an issue @ 54-55psi. Low oil PSi climbs as it should. I have several recordings, some times it looks as if the icp voltage drops out, other times sync drops out. I have load tested while wiggling these circuits and found no issues. There is a screen shot of the latest recording  (all green) where i see no issues, but the truck wouldn't start, A few other screen shots of various no start or start stall recordings, also included is a video of Sync dropping out. I am with out a doubt over looking something, as there have been several parts replaced along the way from various techs, as well as several tests performed that I have forgotten to list here.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

NAX_NO_START.mp4

We lost a lot of good techs over the years due to the management, I'd love to get some back now. But your right it feels as if the younger generation has a crap work ethic and a right of entitlement.

I'm happy to say we have a great mix of guys, who make a good living. With the new management I'm hoping to draw more quality techs like the ones that this site attracts, rather than the usual applicants.

My dealerships (Portsmouth Ford)  service department  is under new management, and in my opinion, finally headed in the right direction.  We are looking for Quality  A, B, and C techs.  I'm not going to bore you with the typical lip service you can read in any help wanted ad, but we do offer benefits,  and great pay.  I've been there 11 years and am excited to see management that is interested in the employees well being before profit.

Send a resume to Garsenault@portford.com

Unfortunetly you need midget hands to get in the glow plug connector area on the e-series. I have removed the valve cover and next the oil rail, which ought to prove to be equally as awesome:) Thanks for the help.

Anyone have any tricks to removing broken glowplug connectors on the drivers side of an e series?

Just got an 05 F350 6.0l in with codes p0113 and p1102, removed maf sensor to visually inspect after reading this post, it was dirty, as i moved it around to inspect, found that there was a large amount of water inside. no visual damage to the seal or plastic, first for me.

By far the best tool for the job, but to be honest I found if you remove the plugs with a 1/2 impact gun they don't usually break. No soaking, just gun it, (hot tip from ford instructor).

JR is by far one of the best instructors I have ever had. I don't even need 5 coffees to make it through his classes.

What's the idea behind pulling the cab?

I guess I'm not losing my mind then. I just couldn't imagine how the oil would start leaking in the middle of the gasket. Well i guess it is time to pop my bedplate gasket cherry.Good times! Any hot tips?

Has anyone had any bed plate gaskets leak when no one has had the front or rear engine covers off of an 06 f350 6.0l with 23k ? Dye test, found dye present on passengers side bed plate seam and dripping down on ear of the block. Traced dye to the front of the engine along the bed plate seam, appears to stop right below ac compressor bracket near crank sensor. Replaced suspect crank sensor oringcleaned all dye off block, and after extensive driving the same trail of dye is back. I believe there is enough evidence to replace the bed plate gasket, but I have never had them leak.

customer need truck back, and said he would drop it with us again when it started acting up again.

Restarted this morning, unfortunetly it is unseasonably warm @42degrees so crank time was just about 2.5 seconds. Icp started at .2v ramped up to 1.3v in approx. 2.5 seconds.Ficm m_pwr stayed steady at 48v. Fuel looked good,smelled good,will try the freezer check this morning.

Thanks!

I have a 2006 f350 6.0l occupying my bay, when cold after sitting overnight it has a long crank time before starting.(cranking the starter for 10 sec, 3 times before starting) no codes. have sync and ficm sync,eot 44 degrees, glowplugs come on, back probed gp relay, power coming out, glow plugs resistance is good across the board. icp@ 1776psi, ipr@ 50% fuel pressure maintains 50-51psi, no combustion gasses in fuel,fuel is clean, oil not aerated. oil filter stock, and not dry after sitting overnight. unplugged icp, ipr rampped to 75%, still no start. latest calibration installed on test ficm. I must be over looking somthing obvious. also notice slightly longer than normal crank time once warm, but not long enough that a customer would complain about.

The injector cups I just did had the symptom of fuel blowing out of the coolant resivior with authority.