Mikill

 

I have seen it many times that the location listed in the job aid doesn't match the sensor PID.  I always will unplug the suspect sensor while monitoring all 4 EGT pids to see if any (other) EGT sensor readings change prior to removing the sensor.

I read somewhere to do this, so you don't change the wrong one. Possibly an SSM. I thought it was in the PPT, but it's not. 

 

 

Yes there is an SSM explaining this on the chassis cab. They can be reversed or in normal order.

Headgasket failure would not cause this. I only seen one head gasket failure on a 6.4 by the way.

More than likely overfueling injector melted piston which was probably caused by overfilled crankcase. I haven't seen one in a couple years but I'm sure it still happens.

You or the customer can fix it cheap now and pay better attention to draining the HFCM or pay a $10,000 bill later. Like it's been said earlier it's there for a reason.

I'm down in Texas and we have a hard time removing some of these exhaust bolts and nuts on the 6.4 so I can just imagine how it is up north.

6.4 is probably one of the worst engines ever made as far as work trucks go. We don't see too many problems with personal vehicles but these fleet trucks have been gone thru several times.

Have you checked fuel pressure?

I would definitely check for a restriction before replacing injs

If you look at the TSB it's coded to a valve. This truck seems to have valve problems but the ones we have seen have all been 450 and 550s.

Yeah I did one a few weeks ago. There is no tear down required if the tsb applies. Just remove glow plug and if its damaged then replace long block.

For the past couple of years I have replaced a few front cover gaskets. Seen quite a few oil coolers leaking as well

Check wires on ECT. I have seen a couple with bare wires touching

I understand all that but the first coolant leaks I starting doing on these were radiators not hoses. This was back when the 6.4 first came out.

MAP sensor. I have had two of those so far and both times it's been the MAP sensor

I still don't see how the coolant hoses leaking cause the radiators to leak because radiators have been leaking before the hose o-rings started leaking.

Radiators are just junk

Now the big question is how big of an issue is this going to be?

We have a company with alot of 6.7 trucks and every one of them come in needing EGR coolers. All have high idle hrs.

^^^^When the lifter is mushroomed at the bottom and can not be removed the cam lobe is usually trashed as well. The were saying to replace the short block when that happens because of damage to the lifter bore but not sure about lately. Haven't had one in awhile.

Yeah 14 hrs to replace valves on a cyl head and I just replaced a long block for 18 hrs from the other tsb. Some thing is not right!

The only times I have seen that happen was when the sensor was bolted directly to the DPF and not between the two nuts like originally intended.

All you need is an inch behind and about 2 inches above the cab, and it will lift the 4 inches in the front needed to slide the engine out.

I would definitely lift the cab a few inches to help clear but the only one that I did the rack was sitting on the roof. Either way if youre careful then there shouldn't be any oil pan damage.

Well sometimes you are unable to lift the cab at all with certain racks built on top of the cab.

How would you do that. Lift up and remove the oil pan?

Nope engine stays together. It rolls out if you know what I mean

Lifting the cab a little probably helps alot but they can be removed without lifting the cab a few inches as well.

That guy is expensive but broken 6.4 bolts are a pain in the ass so I don't blame him charging that much.

Has anyone had to replace the right side exhaust manifold during this repair because of broken exhaust bolts? Tried to drill them out with no luck.

 

I have had a couple where they were recently replaced and code returns because of damaged t-stat housing.

What happens to the housing?

 

They slots where the thermostats go into get worn out or cavitated which causes the thermostats to pop out of the slots.

Usually if the coolant level is correct and there are no leaks the it's mostly likely thermostats. I have had a couple where they were recently replaced and code returns because of damaged t-stat housing.