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Upper oil pan

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  • 1 month later...

The upper pan is sandwiched between the block, I am finding it kind of hard to believe that doing it that way would even be possible. To slide that fucker out, YOU need the trans out.......am I missing something????

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I think guys are doing a partial cab lift that will give enough height to jack the engine up far enough to drop and remove the upper pan. With what needs to be disconnected to do that it would be quicker than pulling the trans. Cant say first hand though.

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  • 3 months later...

I have taken cab off and done it that way once. I had heard about guys saying it was a great way to do it. I had a f550 I couldn't lift and decided to give it a shot that way.  After doing it that way my conclusion was it works Ok but not worth it. I previously have removed engine when I was unable to lift.  

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Yes, it works and you can save time. I actually just did it for the first time. A partial cab lift will allow you to get the pan out with the transmission in place.  I didn't have help or any notes so I had to figure out the details - I disconnect NOTHING to lift the cab, removed all cab mount bolts but the rear which I loosened and lifted the cab enough to get two 2X4's between the front mount and cab. That still did not give me enough room so I had to disconnect the trans mount and jack it up as well.  and the pan juuuuust squeaked out.  The next one I will remove all cab mount bolts and raise the cab evenly which should provide the extra space.  I never did this repair in book time... I did with the cab lift. 

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I just completed. I took all cab bolts out put 2x4 flat under front and rear cab mounts. I was unable to get the pan out even with trans pushed up. I put the front 2x4 on edge and pushed the engine up then got the pan out. It was a tight fit but got it done. 

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I also noted that cleaning the block was  not really any more difficult with the transmission in place. The usual fastidious approach to cleanliness applies. And on that note, I usually start the job by getting it to operating temp and putting it on the lift and draining the oil, removing the oil filter and draining the coolant before I go home. I also prefer allowing the sealant extra time to set up... over night.  God this engineering/money saving blunder pisses me off.  It's  the new millennium. Ford should have figured out how to seal a fucking engine by now.

 

 

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Are you guys checking for excessive crankcase pressure when you do them? I had one come back less than 10k later and it was worse than before. I popped the oil cap off with it running and there was enough pressure there that it went pop when I did. 

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8 minutes ago, forddieseldoctor said:

Are you guys checking for excessive crankcase pressure when you do them? I had one come back less than 10k later and it was worse than before. I popped the oil cap off with it running and there was enough pressure there that it went pop when I did. 

I do - especially the high engine hour/idle hour most of which are municipal, state or public utility trucks. They all get a new CCV as per TSB 19-2142

TSB 19-2142.pdf

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I replace ccv on everyone.

On 4/4/2021 at 8:30 AM, Keith Browning said:

I do - especially the high engine hour/idle hour most of which are municipal, state or public utility trucks. They all get a new CCV as per TSB 19-2142

TSB 19-2142.pdf 64.68 kB · 2 downloads

On 4/4/2021 at 8:25 AM, forddieseldoctor said:

Are you guys checking for excessive crankcase pressure when you do them? I had one come back less than 10k later and it was worse than before. I popped the oil cap off with it running and there was enough pressure there that it went pop when I did. 

 

 

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