FordFanaticTony

just some feedback guys it was the AC compressor.

Just wondering if anyone has seen this to point me in the right direction. The fuse 29 on the passenger side where the airbag would be keeps opening. Power multiple items. Going to start disconnecting parts. Leaning towards the AC clutch relay. Thank you for any suggestions. F-750 with a Cummins

Hello. So I have my own IDS with VCM 2 and have been talking to my foreman that in order for us to start working on GMs we need the software and whatever GM has like PTS dealerconnection with wiring diagrams and workshop manuals. Is anyone out there familiar on what software/interface we need for diagnostics, programming, and wiring, worshop manual info. The how to, ,cost and how to access. Looking if there is an fmcdealer info. page for GM techs. Thanks in advance for any access.

Well glad I looked at the schematic beforehand. Someone worked on this 03 before so they plugged the IAT2 to the ECT and vice versa. Always beware of the previous guys work. Thanks fellas for any tips and advise as always.

Just looked at the schematic. Going to check out the mat and eot also since they share the signal return from the ect.

I replaced the coolant sensor on the front cover that goes by the thermostat housing.

Installed new thermostat and ect sensor the vehicle stays cold. No codes during self-test. next step is taking an actual reading with a temp gun. Anyone ever seen this?

Thank you Keith I will look at the mounting surface and circuits.

hello everyone. Have a 05 f-350 6.0 4x2 causing an intermittent C1236 and ABS light. Previous tech installed a new sensor and connector to the diff. abs sensor. I see it happen very intermittently. Takes sometimes 10 miles for it to reappear. Just wondering if anyone has seen this. Engine started making a whining fan type or belt type of noise of late. Was wondering if maybe a bad alternator can cause this. Thank you ahead of time.

Hi everyone I have a 2003 f-450 dump truck with no ids communication. Engine start but customer states it stalls when trying to drive. Going to check power at dlc to see what I find. Let me know if you have found any tips or tricks on this. Already tried disconnecting ebp and glow plug module. Thanks ahead of time. Going to start from step 1.

that sucks

it was a brand new ford reman.

Issue was a bad, new ford egr valve. It was causing black smoke on tip in. Just never thought the part would be bad. Caused no codes. Finally after road testing it=it failed the egr test during the valve position test. Just a heads up fellas.

made a tool out of threaded rod and pipe. I will post it here soon.

hi fellas, here we go. 2004 f-350 with 240,000 comes in hydrolocked with a blown egr cooler. replaced oil cooler, egr cooler, egr valve, removed glow plugs to evacuate, and cracked starter. All white smoke cleared. now during intial accel has black smoke and lack of power. its like a lazy spool up and during that hesitation you get some black smoke for about 3-5 seconds until it clears up and then go power up 25mgp. some instances of quite idle kind of like an egr valve getting stuck but its new with clean intake. road tested for 25 miles and all systems passed on ids. great power. just initial tip it you get a little excessive black smoke. I just moved to Wisconsin from California so the atmossperic number are different. BARO is at 14.2 Map at 14.2 and ebp is at 15.1 so that ebp bothers me and its the old style by the t-stat. looking at replacing that and the connector along with an icp sensor connector to start. if that doesn't do the trick thinking about a unison ring. thoughts? thanks for any suggestions.

Same here Levi. Left Ford 5 years ago for Union Pacific Railroad. Furloughed also due to precision railroading and its record breaking profits. Joined a fleet company with over 100 Fords in their fleet. I am much happier than working those crappy schedules of the railroad. Went to one interview at a Ford dealer and realized that the benefits are still horrible there. I suggest you look for a city job or a big fleet of Ford vehicles where you can get the better medical insurance. I work with two other previous Ford techs=that tells me a lot about working for Ford as a tech.

right on. thanks for the heads up.

What did you find out about this btw?

Sorry fellas I never updated this. There was a part of the loom above the driver's side wheel inner liner that did not have tape going around it (exposed) found a green wire full of green. It just pulled open when I barely tugged on it. As soon as I reattached the circuit I could here the fuel pump come on. Looks like water from the battery tray was allowed to just sit there or from some nearby area. Thanks for all the help however.

I don't have the removal tool that goes into the cup after cutting the threads with the die. Can I just install a stud directly into the cup? if so what size of stud do I need? thanks for any help.

Hi fellas i have the 6.0 otc tap and installer but missing the thread type removal tool for the slide hammer for cup removal. Any homemade tips you guys can share to get no. 8 sleeve out. Either way i wouldnt be able to get a slide hammer back in there. Thanks for any advice ahead of time.

Those are the two circuits I am sure I am chasing. I did the ohm test on the DLC per the tsb and that checked out fine which makes me wonder if it really is a pin fitment issue I should be looking at. Is there instances of bad PCMs on these 6.7s?

Hey Mike I am curious about how you came about the trailer brake controller as well. I performed the network test and found the CAN and ECU not communicating. Under the optional modules I found Ucodes for the trailer brake controller. I looked at the connector above the ebrake and both under the column looking at the pins and wires for the can circuit with no issues. Is there something I missed on the trailer brake controller Mike. Thanks for any suggestions I am lost on this one. Is there a big ssue with pin damage on these trucks?

I will try that. It is stock.

Hello everyone. I am stuck on a customer's 2015 f-350 6.7 no crank no start, with error messages on the cluster display of advance trac, over temp, hill descent. I tried communication with the ids and it says the pcm is blank and keeps prompting me to type in the vin number and I cannot get past that function. I checked the dlc for power and ground and network voltage all passing. I checked the connector at the e-brake and all the pins looked good. I also disassembled the battery fuse junction box to look for any broken wires coming from the pcm relay to fuse 72 and it checked out. Anything I am missing or have you fellas seen anything else show up causing this issue. Thanks in advance for any help.