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Posts posted by forddieseldoctor
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Only seen one. No love lost here if they drop it.
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On 5/7/2021 at 6:01 PM, forddieseldoctor said:
I picked up a milwaukee 12 volt caulk gun today. I’ll let you guys know how it works with silicone once I get to use it.
I’ve had a chance to use it a couple times. I’m running between 1 and 2 for speed. It’s great for the bigger items but you have to have the discipline to keep moving. Because if you let go of the trigger it backs up the pusher 1/8 inch and at the low speeds it takes a bit to start pushing silicone again. I still throw the tube into my mechanical gun for jobs that needs a spot or two such as valve covers or front covers that have gaskets.
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On 6/25/2021 at 7:52 AM, forddieseldoctor said:
No. It was not leaking. Another dealer resealed the cover because it was leaking. I got it with a P0017 and a light knock at idle. Found the studbolt for the left chain tensioner was replaced with a bolt and the right tensioner had a broken spring clip. I just don’t understand why they woulda taken the chains off to reseal the cover. Cause I find it hard to believe it made 60k with the bottom 1/3 of the right guide unsupported.
So the studbolt wasn't replaced with a regular bolt. It was broke off flush. I found the busted off piece laying in the upper oil pan while I was cleaning the rest of the silicone off the motor.
I still have no idea why it broke. -
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Oops. Google changed the suffix on me. Bad google. No cookie.
Are you trying to change something on yours?
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What does ficmsync show? Ficmsync is way more sensitive than sync is. If ficmsync drops out then the first thing to check is for a rust jacked cam sensor.
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21 minutes ago, Keith Browning said:
I thought torque sticks were frowned upon now? Too many variables on the power tools or something like that.
We still check wheels with a torque wrench after the car is on the ground. That became shop policy about 6 or 7 years ago.
But for the record it is amazing how much difference there is from wheel to wheel when you check the torque on some vehicles. 11 and up explorers seem to be the worst.
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On 5/30/2021 at 8:05 AM, mchan68 said:
For all the reasons above, is exactly why I've jumped on the bandwagon of buying and using Milwaukee Fuel cordless tools for all my repairs. My neighbor tech even bit the bullet and bought a Snap-On cordless 1/2" drive gun and it lasted only a year! And we all know how much Snap-On tools cost. I won't disagree that the Milwaukee 1/2" drive is a little heavy to use with the battery pack connected, but not having to drag around an air line connected to whatever tool I'm using makes it well worth it. So far, it has held up extremely well through two tire swap seasons and counting. I'm now debating on whether or not I should be getting another power bar and more chargers to install on my workbench.
How does that work with torque sticks? Or did you buy a one-key impact?
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No. It was not leaking. Another dealer resealed the cover because it was leaking. I got it with a P0017 and a light knock at idle. Found the studbolt for the left chain tensioner was replaced with a bolt and the right tensioner had a broken spring clip. I just don’t understand why they woulda taken the chains off to reseal the cover. Cause I find it hard to believe it made 60k with the bottom 1/3 of the right guide unsupported.
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On 5/26/2021 at 4:52 AM, Keith Browning said:
I wonder how many ugga duggas that is.
I dunno. But I’ve never heard anything smaller than a 1” gun go ugga dugga.
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10 hours ago, lmorris said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, aren't the drums on those part of the wheel hub? If so, how the hell are the wheels on it???
No they are not. Those are semi air brakes. If they are stud style wheels (budd or flange nuts) they slide over the hub just like a pickup. Spoke wheels are a different story but I’ve never really messed with those.
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Yeah… especially since I know what size vehicle those brakes are on.
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You find that? Or borrow the picture from somewhere else?
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The overheating of the dpf is my thoughts on why they posted the message. Way too much raw “fuel” in there for it to regen without toasting the dpf.
And yes I agree that letting a truck go with an overloaded dpf is not good either.
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Yeah what Keith said. If you have injector ckt codes it’s probably a ficm since all your ckts ohm out. If it’s just a contribution code then at this point it’s probably an injector. I recommend testing fuel pressure any time you replace an injector on a 6.0 since poor fuel pressure will eat injectors.
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And I picked up the milwaukee 3/8 18 volt impact that’s rated for 600 lbs/ft for a friend. I should get a chance to play with that tomorrow.
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I picked up a milwaukee 12 volt caulk gun today. I’ll let you guys know how it works with silicone once I get to use it.
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It’s making me think long and hard about making changes.
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I used to run snap-on cordless impacts till the old nicad batteries all died. Now we run milwaukee both at home and at work. Impacts are 18 volts in both 3/8 and 1/2. I’ve trashed 2 of the 3/8 ones already under warranty. I just recently bought the 1/4 ratchet and the 3/8 ratchet. I have enough batteries that charging isn’t an issue. I’m looking at a caulk gun as my next purchase. Sick of squeezing out silicone for oil pans and front covers.
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9 hours ago, Keith Browning said:
Yeah. What he says. Grab the block off tools and go to work. My guess is crap ipr since it’s intermittent. Just make sure the nut is tight on the ipr valve first. I think the block off plugs we have are that blackish color that otc used for everything.
Other thing to remember is to check icp voltage not just pressure.
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Fusion hcu check and change fluid to dot 4.
10R140 CDF Drum Bushing
in Driveline: Transmissions, Clutches and Axles
Posted
Very interesting. Too bad it was apart a couple of times before you found that.