SGT. Diesel

I asked to have this picture posted. It is of the drivers door on a '03 or '04 F-350. One of our bomb towing vehicles. On all of them, we have around 15 or so, the window reuglator mount is cracking the door. Has anyone seen this before? What do you recommend for a fix? As you can see we have been putting a washer over the hole, but I am afraid the problem will only get worse.

We finally figured this beast out. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

I got to reading on a couple of different forums that when na injector was replaced the PS may run rough until the air is out of the oil and fuel systems. So, got to thinking that my hard starting problem was air in the systems. I took it out and ran it for a while, that seemed to help. Let it sit over night and the guys said it started up fine (was my day to come in late). So, we'll see how long it takes to come back in as a hard starter.

One of the problems with trading good parts to test for bad parts is that all too commonly you create a problem in a perfectly good working vehicle. Many of my fellow Airmen believe that this is a viable way of troubleshooting. Usually they move on to something else and someone else(me)has the priviledge of cleaning up. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif With all that said...In my previous post I mentioned that we swapped HPOP's between vehicles. Neither pump worked in the other vehicle but when returned the vehicle started right up. This is in refrence to the second and good running vehicle. It is now a hard starter. It will take at least 10 seconds of constant cranking to start. I did pull a code of P0542 for the Intake Manifold Heater. I'm running that tree now. Anybody have any thoughts? It make sense that if the intake heater isn't working right it will start hard but this seems more than that. Also, any thoughts why the HPOP would not work in a different engine? Musical engine parts, the hazard of working on the governments dollar! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif

Thought we had it today... When management wasn't looken we tapped a schrader valve into the fuel reservoir cap. Pump was putting out 50-60psi with the engine running. As the RPMs were brought up the needle went down to zero, emptied the resrvoir. We pulled the fuel sending unit, discovered that the plastic holding the screen was rotten and all broken up. There was also a tube of some sort disconneted. Now this is not your typical F-350. This is one of those contractor crations where the frame has been shortened and weight added to the back for towing bombs and rockets. All of this is to meet certain Air Force requirements. I doubt this sending unit and fuel tank are Ford parts. We rigged the sending unit back together, tested the fuel pressure which stayed between 50-60psi. My fellow mechanic went for a test drive and the darn thing cut out on him. He is just slightly upset. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smhair.gif I mentioned in the previous post that when the HPOP was swapped out this engine wouldn't run. When that original was put back in, it started up just like normal.

I like the idea for the fuel psi gague, but management dosen't. We don't have any extra but we can order some. Since we can't get an fuel pressure reading, we wanted to eliminate the HPOP. We brought in a F-350 of the same year, removed the HPOP and put it in the one we are having trouble with.(Don't know if that was a good idea or not but we're grasping at straws--Explosive Ordinance Disposal and some C-4 will be next)Once it was installed the engine wouldn't start. It would turn over great, fuel would shoot out the bleeder behind the filter houseing when cracked, but it just would not start. Oil level is good in the reservoir. We took the HPOP out and put it back in the original engine and it runs like a champ. Today we are going to put the original HPOP back in the original engine and see what happens. I believe this would indicate that there is not a problem with the HPOP. Maybe a restriction somewhere else?

When the vehicle first came in, thinking that this was a fuel problem we changed the pump. Today using the WDS we looked at the ICP PID (I'm catching on to the Ford lingo) we couldn't notice anything abnormal before the engine would start to stumble. We looked into checking the fuel pressure at the heads but we don't have the right fittings for our psi gague so getting a fuel pressure reading in not possible at the moment, unless the WDS can do it and we just don't know how.

I got the truck running. I wasn't able to find a problem with the harness, but that dosen't mean there insn't a problem. Soon after I got it running, mamagement wanted it out since it is a fire department asset. (They go on and on about fire fighting capability and other nonsense.) Our Maintenance Control guy is looking into the TSB for the harness. I would not be surprised if this was the problem. I don't know about anyone else. Some rumors say we use JP-8 and some day we don't. The only fuel pumps we have troubles with running JP-8 are usually GM 6.2L and 6.5L. With our gas engines we have runnability problems because we can't drive faster than 20MPH. We change lost of injectors and plugs often with no improvement.

We have been working on a 2000 F-350 7.3L for a while now. When we drive it and after it gets warm, one at a time it appears that the cylinders are cutting out. Eventually the engine will shut down. At idle the engine will run fine. We have done the anti-aeration test with the WDS and it failed. We changed the oil and that it didn't help. We found on another site that the sometimes the oil pick-up tubes will develop cracks. We added a couple of quarts of oil and raised the back of the vehicle and it did not stop running. So...we replaced the pick-up tube and just for the hell of we put in a new oil pump. We also switched out the injection control module and that didn't improve anything. Anybody have any ideas of where to go next? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif

Can I get a copy of that safety recall? According to our records, we have no information on it. The fuse I removed was Number 3-Power Point.

I did move any group of wires I could find on that side of the engine, from the FICM down to the CMP sensor in front. I cleared the codes after I did that. So I don't know if the engine started because the codes were cleared or if the wires made a connection. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif I didn't notice any locations in the wires where they had worn through and grounded out.

The first two codes I pulled were P1334 and P2614. The list of other codes I didn't write down because there were so many. Since you mention air filter, we have alot of fine dirt blowing all the time. I did blow the filter out and there was alot of dirt in it. The operators told us the the truck ran fine then the next day it would not start. In regards to the CAC tubes, what is considered normal?

Well I finally got work on this 6.0L. First off I was able to finally get the WDS to talk to the PCM. I took the word of my mobile mechanic who initially went out on this vehicle that all the fuses were good. I should have known better. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Found a bad fuse, replaced that and WDS talks to PCM. Initial DTCs indicate Cam Position Sensor and EGR Throttle Plate.I pulled the PCM engine connector and tested the CMP circuit resistance--852 ohms. Reconnected connector to the PCM. That was last night. This afternoon I had the truck pushed into the shop. I pulled out the hardware to find the CMP. I didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I reconnected the MAF sensor and vacuum sensor on the air filter, hooked up the WDS and ran the self-test a second time. I recieved about 10 codes, I figured that was because the engine wasn't running and I had to disconnect the battery. This time the CMP code was missing. I cleared the codes and the engine started. So I put it all back together. Anyone have any idea what happened? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif The CMP code would not clear last night. In the process of removing engine connector I also removed the small connector closest to the front of the engine. Could that have been a factor? On a slightly different question is the oil in tubes before and after the turbo considered normal?

Hi, I am in need of some assistance. I am in Iraq and I get to work on everything lowest bidder could possibly create. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Anyway, I am working on a 2004 F-350 Superduty with a 6.0L. Other than what I read here I know nothing. That is the benefit of the Air Forces Jack of all Trades Master of Squat Program /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif This truck is turning over really well but not starting. I do have access to a WDS. The WDS is not able to communicate with the PCM. After going thru a series of steps the WDS asks for a part number to idenify the PCM. I can't find that part number, let alone find the PCM. Without sounding too stupid, if anyone could provide a part number for PCM and possibly a location, you would make my day. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif