Brad Clayton

There was a crime report released on the local news the other day and then a top 10 thingy popped up on my phone last night. I already know I live in a bad area and the town I work in is one of those types of placed where you get your fuel before dark, nah-wat-ah-mean brah? Well you gotta be noted for something and you guessed it Kinston (K-town) NC is number 2 on the list with an additional note that your chances of becoming a victim of a crime here is 1 in 13

However someone was just shot to death in broad daylight over a little squabble while 2 school busses were dropping kids off in the same area. So we may have been shot up to the number 1 spot!!!!

That's exactly what I thought it was.

yea tuner is hooked up, still no crank. don't know how to diag a tuner, how do I jumper the sensors to get it in the shop? thanks

My indy I part time at is seeing a boat load of 6.4 action. Their 6.0 liter action has turned into the 7.3 liter (fewer and fewer). The owner is thinking about buying another lift for cab off repairs.

MAF measures air flow into engine, so in order increase MAF we give more throttle?

The only reason this test has us raise the idle to 1500 rpm is so the engine won't stall when the egr is opened and spent gasses that cannot support another power cycle are introduced into the cylinders.

There is a direct relationship between incoming air that is measured by the maf and egr gasses which are not measured by the maf. If you introduce exhaust gasses into the intake stream then the maf reading will go down similar to a decelerating engine (less air coming in thus lower maf reading). If the exhaust gasses start to make their way into the intake stream but get blocked (as in a plugged egr cooler) then the maf reading will start to rise again as if the egr valve were shut. The pcm interprets this as "no egr flow".

6.0's are notorious for egr flow codes even when the egr system is working correctly. This is usually attributed to skewed maf readings that are dirty as hell from shit air filters.

I wonder what would happen if you disconnected the turbo actuator so it can't cycle while the engine is acting up.

Here are a few screen shots.
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

Fuel rail pressure would be a good pid to monitor also. Check it against FRPDES to know if its high or low.

You are a blessed individual.

It's a good time as long as the person on the receiving end has a healthy mental state and easily and readily I might add, accepts all hazing and ribbing full well understanding that it is in the job description and a right of passage.

I always ask a new guy if he can handle it or if he is one of the sensitive types, if he is good to go, then I pile it on relentlessly.

Sounds like Aaron's first day on the job way back when........He turned out alright though. Bahahahaha.

I got a 6.7L in my bay right now for some work, after getting fed up with fighting those stupid cheesy plastic pushpins for the sound insulators, I managed to come up with a part number for these damn things. It is BC3Z-6N958-A if I looked it up correctly. I can't believe the ridiculous price. If I'm wrong, please correct me. Perhaps this would be a good sticky.

I double checked and it is all good, they were only a couple of bucks which isn't out of the ordinary for Ford's recent pricing. It has been added to the sticky list.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/3282-odd-part-numbers/

The customer couldn't change air flow direction, it was stuck on vent all the time. I had to tear it out and apart to retrieve all sorts of bits that fell down the defrost registers and jammed into the mode door.

A quick vid of me doing a stumbling narrative of the mode door.

http://youtu.be/vehphhfDgIw

The mode door mechanism must be completely disassembled to replace the motor.

As the motor bolts from the inside of the frame.

Mode door lever goes on top of the motor.

Worm channel assy goes on next and the bottom channel will control the mode door.

And lastly, this mechanism rides in the upper worm channel and controls the floor door and the defrost door.

All in all, I have to say this is a well thought out and nice little unit to work with. The wiring harness is routed very securely to all the motors and is easily checked by accessing the 2 connectors behind the glove box. The mode door apparatus is an engineering marvel and quite the concert to watch in motion.

The only two issues I see, are the blower motor resistor and it's difficult access (however it is heavily heat sinked and may never fail), and the fact that loose items can easily find there way from the package tray on the top of the dash to the bottom of the HVAC case via the defroster vents. When this happens the mode door ceases to function correctly.

Ever wonder what goes on inside of one of these dual climate control setups? Here is an inside look.

This is the bottom half of the case torn down to the bare nuts. 1 is the driver's floor door, 2 is the passenger floor door, 3 is the optional aux heater slot, 4 is the heater core slot, 5 is where the mode door resides.

This tray separates the case into two halves.

Both the mode door and the temp doors must be split to fit between the separator for the dual climate control so it will function as if it were a single plenum chamber. Here you can see the mode door is keyed and both doors will move together.

The mode door is operated by a cable and is located on the very bottom of the case.

These are the temp blend doors and as seen here they are keyed because this is a single climate controlled unit, if the dual option were on this rig then these doors would not be keyed together so they could operate independently.

Air diffusers.

1 is the evap core slot, 2 is the heater core slot, 3 is the aux heater slot, and 4 is where the blend door resides.

Dual climate control will allow the blend doors to pivot independently of each other here. The driver's blend door will attach at the bottom of the case and the passenger's blend door will attach at the top of the case. If the option is not available then there will be just one blend door motor on the top.

The mode doors cannot be operated separate from each other.

Lower (driver's) air diffuser in place.

Case being assembled up to the point minus the upper (passenger) air diffuser.

This is a good shot showing why a case without the aux. heater can't be upfitted. With the separator tray in place you can see there is only a provision for the heater core to fit in.

Here is the blower motor resistor. I hope these things never fail. I am not sure how you would get this out without removing the case or at least unbolting it from the firewall and doing some barbaric prying. The unit locks in with a tab and slides in the case towards the blower motor to lock in secure. To remove, simply push down on the tab and slide towards the driver's side of the vehicle and remove.

Case assembled and waiting for the defroster panel door. The left side bottom (with foam surround) feeds the driver's panel vents, top left feeds the driver's defrost and floor vents. The passenger's mode door can be seen and the driver's is hidden below it.

Defrost door in place.

The main control of the whole assembly, the blend door actuator and mechanisms.

I have been around for a while, but never have I seen a truck that was beat so badly that the leafs took on a "W" shape.

Is it grounded properly?.........YEP!

Not sure how this design ever made it past the initial drawing on a scratch pad, much less into actual production. They are a reality and they wear out FAST. Here's a rehash of the shop manual procedure.

I like to use the tool kit Ford supplied dealers to do this job, however it can be done with a generic ball joint press kit.

I printed these out and keep them in the box for hassle free flat rateness.

Here is the ball joint, I think my dealer in Vermont had about 3 dozen of these in stock.

Here is the offensive unit in the chassis of a 2006 F-250.

I loosen the nut with a 24 mm socket and then use a 2 jaw puller to separate the tapered press fit. You can beat on it with a hammer but it's close quarters for swinging, and the puller makes short work of it.

This is the set up to remove the joint.

It's a bit of a tight fit, getting an impact on the press.

In some cases when more room is needed for the socket setup on the press screw, I will use a large ratchet strap to pull the axle over to the passenger's side of the frame.

In some cases, the press will need a little help by way of shock therapy. A couple of raps on the housing containing the ball joint is usually enough to get it moving.

She's free.

Setup to install.

Here again, due to space constraints, I like to start the joint moving by using a wrench. This ensures it starts in straight.

Then I hammer it home with the impact until it seats.

This particular track bar is getting a new bushing in the other end as well. It was damaged from an unchecked diesel fuel leak.

These are pretty straight forward and I use our shop's 20 ton press to drive them in and out. There are two main ways to go about removal, 1st is to heat it up with a torch and melt the rubber a bit to get it moving and 2nd is to use a hole saw kit that fits just inside the outer shell and drill through the rubber separating it from the outside ring. Then you will have the ring left in the eye of the track bar and you just knock it out with an air hammer and chisel bit. Lastly lube up the new unit a smidge and drive it back in with the press.

A good warranty clerk is a keeper for sure. One of the first duty's to be performed when flagging a claim is to read the workshop manual for the repair being flagged. This is mandated by Ford. How many warranty clerks do you think, do that? If they just straight up flag a water pump on a 6.4 and don't read the actual procedure involved with a water pump replacement, then much labor time would be lost. Ford will not kick a claim if the time to be paid is lower than it should be, you can bet'cher boots on that partner.

I got an old abs pump motor I keep handy for the 20 gaugers.

This is a topic over on the "boards"

There are numerous posts about how dealers do things and comments on what is allowed but this reply is......oh.. shall we say the bee's knees!

 

The new C-max has no op code for oil leak dye test. If techs are ignorant of the op codes, they will not punch off when the dye test is done. You cannot "flag" your own repair orders. That's all. It's in the manual. There is absolutely no published statement about technicians being prohibited from gaining knowledge. There is also no published prohibition about you suggesting appropriate op codes. You cannot "flag," therefore you are not guaranteed that your suggestions will be implemented, but you can make any reccomendation you like. If you're on an ERO system, you are not prohibited from typing your suggestions anywhere you wish, but, since you cannot "flag," someone else must make the final coding decision. 

 

In this store, that person is me. I have had numerous consultants start in on me about the techs making suggestions. They go away wiser and somewhat chastened. I make the decision and I am subject to being disciplined and/or dismissed for my errors. Those who bombastically insist that the "techs are writing their own paychecks" inevitably have to deal with me. I don't go out of my way to be abrasive but I don't sugar-coat it and it's never a pleasant experience for them to pay the price for their verbal attack on my integrity and competence and the highly insulting aspersions they cast about the honesty and dedication of the techs I monoitor and serve. They can watch me change the written suggestions to what I choose as most appropriate and then go away. Don't go away mad, just go away. I'm responsible for coding and the coding is done according to my experience and knowledge. If a tech happens to write down a time and it happens to be the right code and the right time, that's a convenience for which I am grateful but that's all it is- a convenience. I don't rubber-stamp any techs suggestions and I don't go whining about the tech's suggestions if I coincidentally come to the same conclusion as the tech about the code suggestion and it's rejected. 

 

It just so happens that certification requirements and proper MT usage are integral to familiarity with SLTS and all techs need at least a basic familiarity in order to maintain the dealership's ability to get what they're owed. 

 

Over many years in many different businesses, I have been accosted by both company insiders and outside consultants that say, in many ways, "you aren't supposed to be reading that" or "you don't need to know." I finally stopped leaving companies because of a few misguided or greedy and paranoid people that want to keep others ignorant in order to maintain their relevance or line their own pockets at other's expense. I now tell them that if they wish to enforce any degree of ignorance, they can get out of my office and answer to the owner for their actions. Only once, in the last 35 years, has such an attitude been upheld by an owner in my presence after I put the demand for enforced ignorance to him for a decision. I had the presence of mind to get out before that business inevitably failed. Bad maagement provides its own reward: failure. 

 

With very rare exceptions, business owners want their people to be as knowledgeable and aware of all relevant information as possible and use it to improve the business. On the "tech ignorance of SLTS" issue, it always comes down to someone with an axe to grind, and that axe is NEVER used in the service of the organization. It is used purely for personal advancement at the cost of the efficiency and personal acheivement of others. 

 

Everyone knows full well that Ford allows both seperate and combined time recording. Using the C-max as an example, if it took 30 minutes for the dye test but the tech made 105% on the component repair after completion of the diagnosis, failure to properly clock the MT6007D means that the 5% gain time goes away. When a tech has spent the last ten years diagnosing and repairing oil leaks without stopping to re-punch, the deliberate refusal of Ford to publish 6007D equates to lost pay for the tech and lost revenue for the dealer. Unless the techs look before they punch. And that's the deliberate intention of those who dispense such patently absurd nonsense as "you can't look at SLTS." Less money for those that work hard and a tighter squeeze on the revenue the dealership needs in order to survive.. 

 

I've invited several ignorance-enablers to come code with me. One or two have sat for a few minutes and then politely stated that they understand that, here, techs don't flag and they don't "write their own paychecks" and they don't "code the claims," regardless of their helpful suggestions to me. They leave and don't waste my time any further than they have already done. It's noteworthy that the most rabidly antagonistic of the "enforced ignorance" advocates inevitably decline the offer to witness and participate in the pre-coding review process. 

 

For those that want to understand, my door is always open. For those that want to try to intimidate us into being less learned about our business, my door is always closed. Open the door at your own risk, if your purpose is to make me and my associates any dumber than God and nature have already made us. I absolutely guarantee you will pay a price for suggesting to me that my technician co-workers must remain stupid about things that they absolutely need to know. Your day will get much worse than you can imagine if you think you can bully me into voluntarily introducing willfull stupidity into my work environment. 

 

No insult to the rest of you guys out there, but I lucked into a job wherein I work with the best techs ever. Anywhere. Nobody's perfect and I do not get angry over mistakes being pointed out but DO NOT INSULT MY ASSOCIATES with stupid unpublished mandates and definitely do no insult my intelligence with thinly-veiled accusations of intellectual bankruptcy. 

 

This topic comes up periodically and I lost patience with it ten years ago. Forgive the intemperate tone of my response, it comes from watching people go into a workplace with the assumption that the techs are universally stupid or corrupt. We're not all geniuses with I.Q.s of over 180, but we're not as ignorant as many wish to believe. And most of us care deeply about doing the right thing. Very possibly the time has come when we must admit that we care too deeply. I hope not. God grant me the wisdom to accurately assess when that day has truly arrived. 

 

 

Ted Schaad

Hansel Ford

Santa Rosa, CA 

 

Yes the latest revision has some tough stuff on there and it is actually longer than the length of wiring it is covering so it acts like a spring keeping it tucked into the plastic of the gasket at each end. I no longer tie the protective convolute.