sparker

We have a truck with some turbo issues (stickiness) and high EGT's (yes, has gauges and exhaust). Found the code and the ICP is smothered in oil, nasty and has been that way for some time. Would this cause some turbo issues? They're going to replace and let customer drive, I think, to see if it's corrected.

what we really need is some under-the-hood shots. one of you guys needs to follow one of those guys with a bill or two to get some nice shots....

They have recently started turning us down on some replacements, saying they are no longer going to be replacing, for the time being, like they're going to wait until they can see if there's a way to fix. They continue to have us try different procedures to try and "unstick" or "break them loose" some, like idling the motor up to 1400 rpms for 30 min., then open the vanes and rev the motor some to blow out loose stuff, then open and close the vanes manually on the WDS. Never works tho. Great article, BTW!

Don't some of the programmers/chips cause more injections per rotation? Starting more advanced in the cycle with more injections continuing as the cylinder gets farther down in a retarded sense. I believe some of these do this to help control the CPs and still get away with more fuel. I'm not sure about the melted pistons but if the CPs were that high for that long, he'd most likely be going through coolant as well and be in need of some headstuds.

What I was figuring is with the larger star pattern, the injection started earlier (hence the retarding of the spray) to complete a longer duration for more fuel; and this timing change would've been caused by a chip/programmer.

again, excellent info guys. what you are all saying makes sense for sure. FD, those are some pretty distinct patterns for sure and extend out pretty far.

good info larry, thanks for bringing that to our attention.

I do know that here locally where I'm at in Texas, if you have a pretty large tank (500+ gallons), you can have a B20 mixture delivered to your tank for $1.85 a gallon. That's most definitely a cost savings and I could see where owners, especially in a rural area like this where those tanks are everywhere, would consider and want to use them; 1) for the cost savings and 2) for the foreign affairs. I myself have 2 1000 gallon diesel tank and a 500 gallon gas tank on my place. I've even considered trying it for a month to see what happens.

I too have heard, point-blank, that there is a very distinct star pattern formed on the piston head when any form of aftermarket programmer has been used. What I've been told is this is due to more radical timing and changed pulse widths. I used to have pictures of this, but I'll see if I can find some. If you have a chance FD, would you snap a pic of what you have and post it?

thanks FD, now that you mention it, I remember now reading about the de-lamination potentials, but I had forgotten that. It is most definitely a shame that the manufacturers, government and more influential parties involved don't push for more R&D. From the little bit that I've heard, the injector concerns can be eliminated with a good fuel additive, but then that eats into any potential cost savings or benfits.

Recently had a customer in here asking a lot of questions on using Bio. From what I've been told officially, we are to recommend nothing more than B5 but only Bio found around here is B20. Anyone here have any long term experience running Bio fuels in the 6.0, up to a 20% (B20) mixture? I wouldn't see it hurting anything in the motor at that low of a percentage.

Recently had a customer in here asking a lot of questions on using Bio. From what I've been told officially, we are to recommend nothing more than B5 but only Bio found around here is B20. Anyone here have any long term experience running Bio fuels in the 6.0, up to a 20% (B20) mixture? I wouldn't see it hurting anything in the motor at that low of a percentage.

I've heard some rumors that the piston crowns and some other parts of the combustion process will be treated with a Mullite ceramic coating. Any truth to this? If so, wouldn't this help the combustion area retain heat and get pushed out the exhaust while lowering the surrounding components temperatures?

good info guys, thanks. FD, anxious to see your article when it's completed.

Damn, I should've called myself, "Zoodad".... LOL

The tech involved has been pushing to perform a "rebuild" on the turbo but Ford is being pissy about paying for it. Keith, I was going through the IH document you brought out and that's the very thing we're wanting to do. We'll see what happens.

Was talking to a guy "in the know" about this just the other day. He was claiming that there really isn't much more you can get out of them when comparing to the stock 6.0 filter. According to him, a lot of the sale is in the ease of filter cleaning/removal compared to stock. He was saying there was some available improvement on the 7.3 but the 6.0 has a very good intake system. I asked him about the modifications to the grill and he said he didn't feel there were any improvements really, although he said some customers have claimed that with the right aftmkt intake and grill mods, they felt the turbo spooled a tad quicker, not necessarily more peak power, just on the power faster...hell, i don't know, just what 'dis guy was sayin'......

Customer claims that under hard acceleration for a brief period and then backing out and getting back in throttle, there's a period of no boost and smoke. Tech said that there were no codes found when the truck was brought in. WDS shows 28lbs. of boost, but after road testing, it did seem to have no power after an acceleration like getting to speed on the highway, showed virtually no boost. Truck has 77k miles, and not much of a history. An EGR at 50k and a fan clutch at 70k. It does have a larger aftmkt exhaust and a boost & pyro gauge in it. Truck is used daily in construction and customer claims that it's pulling trailers a lot because we asked him about extended idling and "babying" the truck. Ford says no to new turbo and no to a reconditioning of the present turbo without any codes, not that we could get our hands on a new one anyways. Appears that there is some sticking in the turbo. Any tips on how to proceed with trying to fix this turbo problem, short of replacing or rebuilding it?