blown99

I am looking to buy an escape for my wife and have a few questions that I need answered by guys that see these things come in. I am not partial to either the I-4 or the v-6 engine.(not interested in the hybrid) My decision on which engine I choose is going to be based on your feedback. What engine seems to have the most issues? Which one has the most high dollar issues? Are these anything like the diesels that require engine removal for repairs such as headgaskets, rear seals, timing belts etc. I read on here that some people break the gears in the transfer case by spinning the wheels in snow. Are there any other drivetrain issues with these. The auto trans are reliable? Any options that I should stay away from that tend to be problems? Options that are really nice add ons? I have been looking mainly at the xlt package 4x4 (appears that package will suite her well) Thanks very much for the facts and opinions.

I can tell you that even the slightest bit of inlet restriction will do these pumps in. This past winter, I replaced several out on the road due to slight fuel gelling. Outside of those incidents, I have yet to see any other issues.Mark

I had the parts guy check and he could not come up with it or the kit that it came in. I seem to recall it being in the oil filter standpipe tube kit but once he breaks the kit down it does not show it. Doesn't mean it is not in the physical package though. I'll keep it in the back of my head for the next one that comes in broken.

How does an ambulance suffer from lot rott? What is the class action law suit about? Any links to it?

I'll bother my parts guy on Monday for the part# and price.

Most of the 275's I see with this issue turn out to be injectors. Remove the valve covers, get the engine oil up to 186 and run the engine. You will find at least a couple of injectors that are dumping a lot more oil than the others.

You can get them separately from IH. Comes in a kit with the oil filter standpipe and the bypass valve.

I have a customer that needs a replacement short bed for a 2000 f-350 due to rot around the wheels and substructure. I started searching. All the beds are listed as 99-08 as being the same. The problem has been that all the used beds from that year range already have some form of rot. I came across a few 2011 short beds. They appear to have the same mounts, the tail lights are different - not an issue, tailgate is a little different - that to is not an issue. Parts books show different listings for the rear steps and back up camera (which the customer does not care about.) Will the 2011 beds bolt on and have the same body lines/measurements as the older models?

If the ICP is .24-.26 v when cranking then you do not have enough ICP when cranking. The ICP should climb to 1.5 v when cranking. Check for B+ at the pin on the IPR valve. If you have good B+, then ground the ground circuit and crank. In theory, this will make the pump put out max pressure. I have also temporarily freed up many IPR's by full fielding them. Monitor the ICP when cranking and see if it climbs past the .26 v

This engine had no hard start issues before the oil cooler replacement? Did he replace the screen in the oil reservoir? If he didn't then I would suspect that the screen is probably torn and allowing the dirt to stick the IPR valve. The ramping up of the ipr duty cycle, then it starts, suggest (to me) that there is debris being dislodged from the IPR during that process, allowing it to work for a short time.

We now have core charges on the works kits (pistons, rods, liners) and fuel tanks on the international side. So far, no core on egr coolers. I sell a lot of the bulletproof egr coolers for my side business. Gene just raised the core price to $50 for the square coolers. Didn't say why though. Dorman auto parts is now selling egr coolers. Some ebay adds list them with lifetime warranties but I was unable to find the warranty on their site.

Finally had a 6.4 come in. Have not even seen one since I went to class on them in 2006. I ended up having to change the high pressure fuel pump. Engine would drop to an idle at times and throw a code 1268. Hardest thing about the job was making a wrench to use as a backup wrench at the hpfp fittings. The one I made is not that great. Is there a "special" tool available? I seem to remember them saying that all the high pressure lines/fittings needed the back up wrench so I did not want to chance tightening the lines without one and crack the pump housing. What do you guys use?

I've had the same type of condition you are having before. I would apply power and ground to the ipr and crank the engine and check for leaks. I was only seeing minimal oil leakage around the injector area. Removed the valve covers and ran the engine at operating temp and I had 2 injectors that were just dumping oil out of the coil/solenoid area. Replaced the leaky injectors and life was good.

Be sure the fitting in the exhaust manifold is not plugged. EGR valve hanging open - any black smoke conditions

With metal floating in the oil you could have a train wreck going. A lifter/cam lobe beginning to fail pushing metal through the rest of the system causing accelerated wear on bearings etc. This metal will make its way through the IPR, and high pressure oil system causing hard start no start. IMO the relative compression test can be very misleading. I've had engines that had valves slammed into the pistons that showed the cylinder was good. The broken pieces slowed down the piston speed enough to indicate a good cylinder. Do what Bruce recommended and perform a manual compression test.

We had/still see a lot of the fuel line sleeves that deteriorate from the use of the ulsd on the International side. Appeared to have an increase in DT injector failures for about 6 mos. after the switch over. Whether the lack of lubricity in the fuel just finished them off quicker or just the luck of the draw; I don't know. I too am a firm believer in the additive.

I have been fixing these for a while. I have not had any that required a reprogram after resoldering the resistors. Plug them in and run them. I see a bunch of shops on ebay doing this now, some with supposed upgrades to the voltage regulators to bump them up to 52 or 58 volts. I doubt any of the companies plug them into a truck, run them and monitor the voltages.

I would verify that you have good power and grounds to the IDM if there is no buzzing of the injectors during the buzz test after the stalling condition. If the power and grounds are good, then suspect an IDM.

Will the injectors buzz right after the engine stalls?

I too have seen the section behind the gear blown out and leaking on the early builds. Never had a branch tube issue on either and early of late build engine. I made up a fitting to pressure test the early build systems with the pump cover off. If I remember I'll snap a pic of it on Monday.

I would be pulling the pump out and reinspecting the covers for a score. O-ring on the pick up tube is good?

I contacted our tech central today to be sure. They say do not remove the bolts for the primary flange. This is an out of chassis procedure. Job pays 17.7 hrs to pull the engine, r&r the cam and lifters, pull the heads, and front/rear covers and reinstall. Hope my ass is in high gear for the day.

Looks like I have one with a bad cam coming in. This is a rear engine school bus 2006 vintage. I have yet to do a cam in one of these engines, so I was reading through the service manual. Our service manual shows the bedplate and crank need to be taken out to remove the cam. Going by the pics, there is a flange (the rear seal rides on this flange)on the crank that prevents the tech from sliding the cam out. Couldn't find anything in the service book that indicates that this flange can be removed. What do you guys usually do?

Not following you on the without diesel and coolant.

I have had more than a few that leaked coolant out from the bottom of the cup and into the cylinder (where the cup meets the head surface) once the engine is shut off, the cooling system pressure will cause the coolant to drip into the cylinder and hydrolock it.