blown99

Working on a 2013 F-250. Truck came in with a locked up lower end, replaced the shortblock, replaced hpfp, put everything back to stock, flashed back to oem ford calibration. I need to get this truck through emissions for the customer. Verified IQA are correct, reset all systems - fuel, exhaust, etc. I have driven it several hundred miles. Runs perfect. Unable to get the fuel system monitor to set (as well as the dpf but this will pass with one monitor not set) If I open the monitor up, it has several test that have completed. One test that has not is pictured in the attachment below. I have searched through ford tech service/dealer connection, pced, wsm, I am not seeing any breakdowns of what each monitor is as far as what is displayed in this pic. ECU ID: $E8 OBDMID: $81 Test ID: $99 Value: 0.000 Min. 0.000 Max: 0.000 Result: Not Complete Can one of you point me in a direction? Won't load my picture - sorry

12' Superduty. Came in not running and had been at a few other shops. Customer had replaced the oil and filter prior to bringing it to me. I charged the batteries, it had a long crank, then started, popping back through the intake, ran for about 30 seconds then stalled. Had a slow crank after that. Pushed the truck inside, began disassembly assuming cam/lifter issue due to the popping back. Found failed lifter on #5/worn out cam lobe. Replaced cam, all lifters, checked valves reassembled. Checked piston protrusion to check for bent rods, cylinder walls looked very good. Try to start - long crank but it will start. I am able to keep it running for a few minutes, then it will stall. Engine runs rough, power balance is all over the place. When it stalls, I have a slow crank, acts like a slight hydro lock condition. I have no cam/crank sync and it is running. No codes for cam or crank sensors. I will get codes for random misfire and a #7 contribution. Relative compression test is erratic. Listening to it while it cranks - initially I had some uneveness when cranking like you typically do after an engine has been apart and everything is dry. After it ran for a bit and I attempted a restart I had uneven cranking. I removed the injector in #1, remove the vac pump, dial indicator down onto #1 piston and bar the engine - timing appears to be ok. Upper timing mark is on point with the piston being at tdc. Remove cam sensor, leave it plugged in but crank the engine and I get a cam fault when cranking. I have read a few cases of broken cranks and slipped crank gears. At this point after dial indicating, I am not suspecting the slipped crank gear. But this engine was loud...deep noise to it when it ran. Where are these cranks breaking? symptoms?

If I remove all the return hoses and clamp off the rubber lines, run the engine, I will see which one is leaking excessively correct?

I had a 2011 F550 flatbed wrecker towed in from a customer that bought this not running. Someone put a new high pressure fuel pump on it. Looks like the return hoses are changed as well. Could only get about 1200psi of rail pressure. Began diag, found fuel gushing out of the pressure relief on the left fuel rail. Replaced the relief actuator, retest, still leaking, replaced the rail and high pressure lines to the injectors for that rail. Truck started. took it for a road test, the fuel return hose at #6 blew off the barb fitting. Reattached, had a fuel leak at #6 return tube connection, replaced the injector, plastic return tube. Ran the engine in the shop, commanded rail pressure at idle to 16,000psi, the engine stalls. I can free rev the engine and power brake the engine and hit 20,000psi no issue, no stalling. Take it for a road test, #6 return hose blows off again, reattach and run a zip tie over the hose, still blows off. Questions are- Should I be looking for something causing a restriction on the return side? Should I be able to command rail pressure to 25K at idle??

And he had a new cat put on just before he brought it to me - cat would glow red in just a matter of a few minutes of running - I have not checked backpressure yet

Need some help on this one. Customer came a bought a ford reman 6.8 v-10 from me for his 09 f450 tow truck. Then decided to have me install the engine (I never heard the old engine run) Swapped the long block, fired it up, had one of my guys run it down the road (not sure how far he drove it) Came back with a all is good. I through ids on it, had a count of 750 misfires on #1, tossed a coil on #1, fired it up, good amount of blue colored smoke out the tailpipe as it ran for a minute or two in the shop. Took it for a road test - immediatly noticed it to be on the doggier side when accelerating initially. Got it onto the highway - ran ok, got off the highway and it was running rough at idle, gave it a little throttle and it smoothed out, nursed it back to the shop - about a mile. Truck was running very rough once back at the shop, power balance showed many cylinders on each bank low, number 7 was dead. Lean faults for both banks, smoking out hte tailpipe (running rich - raw gas smell) Pulled the plugs, #7 and #6 spark plug gaps were closed up, all plugs were wet with gas, most pluggs were black. Reinstalled and ran the engine (replaced the 2 plugs with closed gasps) Ran better but not like it should be. Relative comrpession showing #7 low at times and can hear an unevan crank but suspect that due to the overfueling conditions. Checked #7 injector with a noid lite - no issues found - was suspecting a failing driver in the pcm allowing it to stay open. Also noticed that the inake runner on #4 gets so incredibly hot after running the truck for 5 minutes in the shop that you can't touch it...all the others are just slightly warm. Fuel pressure is maintaining, appears to be dumping fuel, has anyone seen aything going on inside the intake manifold that could restrict air? Customer says that the truck just started to run rough after he got off a highway ramp - his mechanic also found the same 2 plugs to have the gaps closed up on the old engine. Any ideas??

2011 F-550, recent engine replacement, came back with a complaints of extended crank, low power, boost gauge at 40psi koeo. P06A7 active. IDS shows 5v v ref. Multi meter shows 3.6 volts. I have most of the sensors unplugged at the moment - still have the tps, crank and cam sensor and dpf pressure sensor still plugged in. (getting side tracked with other shop stuff) What have you guys been finding causing the short typically with this fault code?

Also, removed fuel lines at the injectors, put balloons on the threaded portion that the fuel line connects to, crank it - no signs of combustion coming back through the inlet of the injector.

Putting a 6.4 back together after a cam replacement. Having an issue with rail pressure. Bled the system and crank, builds rail pressure, will run for 5 secs of so, then rail pressure drops from 5400ish to 2200ish, then stalls. I then find a lot of air at the shraeder. Bleed the system again, takes about two key cycles to purge the air, crank, build frp, starts, 5secs then stalls, again, air at the shraeder. I was able to pull up power balance quick enough one time and found #1 to be dead. I have no air in the filter bowl - removed cap, run the pump and visually look for air bubbles and nothing is showing in the bowl. My gut is telling me I have compression blowing back through a tip (possibly #1) from maybe a piece of dirt from the injectors being out. Any tips on trying to isolate which one it may be? Anyone run across something like this in the past?

Head bolts are 1 time use. Check the fuel tank for rust. Rust in the tank turned into the #1 cause of tips blowing off these injectors.

A little late to respond, but replace the complete pedal and not just the tps sensor. The pedal has plastic gears that wear and create ivs errors.

I have a 14/15 coming in. Customer put about a quart of DEF in the fuel and ran the engine. Engine is still running, but he has a water in fuel light on. What has been the recommended repair for DEF in the fuel. My memory tells me that I read some post indicating some insurance companies were totaling these when they reached the point of stalling. What are we doing for repairs when we have a partial contamination.

The problem fuse is in the battery box, the pins melt and creat low/no voltage. Also there is a 3 wire connector near the firewall near the master cylinder, 10gauge wiring, that composite melts as well.

Fresh oil, made a cam sensor overlay harness, scoped the cam sensor, I can identify the identifier and they are nice and square.

Fuel was checked at the right head as the plug is stripped in the left head. I believe this problem to be a firing issue electronically - when the valve covers are off and you are cranking the engine, it takes a while before you start hearing the injectors pop off, and when it does decide to run on the right bank only, there is very little to no return oil out of the injectors on the left bank. I tried a test pcm, test idm, made a cam sensor overlay harness. At a loss on this one...

Yes, that would be the junction block

Yes, it stalls with the icp disconnected. The connector for the cjb is clean as a whistle. Dual alternator truck, I did not try disconnecting them, but I have the belt off working on the no start/hard start so I should not have an ac voltage issue.

2002 f-350 7.3 auto, 230k on it Towed to me, came from another ford dealer. They installed an IDM. Found it to crank and start, run very poor. I verified the complaint, found about 4 injectors to buzz audibly. Customer runs veggie oil at times. Replaced all 8 injectors, found engine to be harder to start than typical after an injector replacement - found icp sensor biased low. Road test, runs perfect. Long exit ramp off the highway and I have a slight fuel knock noise which goes away after accelerating, decide to run the road test route again, this time it stalls getting off the ramp, I have a crank no start - all pids look good. Eventually it starts back up, coughs and sputters for 2-3 seconds, then runs perfect, get it back to the shop - check over everything - don't find any issues. Drive it around town no stalling. Appears to stall only when rpms drop down to below 625 ish (converter unlocks, then rpm dips for a split second) Ride the throttle pedal and we can't duplicate the problem. I find that in the shop, I can run this at high rpm for a while, get the oil to 190ish and I end up with a very long crank/hard start. It then only runs on the right bank. Run a buzz test OK no codes at all. This then turns into a no start. I check cam sensor air gap, it is out at .050, grind the front cover, set the gap to .020 and tried a new cam sensor- no luck, changed the ipr valve no luck, air check - no leaks in the high pressure oil system. Oil reservoir is full. I have immediate icp that climbs to 2200psi, icp koeo is .24, climbs to 2.2v. Fuel pw climbs to 4.2 when cranking. Crank it long enough, and it starts to spit and sputter (like a flooded gas engine) it will then start and run on the right bank. I removed both valve covers, - little to no oil returning out of return ports, unplug each injector and you can hear the injector coil stop actuating when unplugged. Shut the engine off,restart it, long crank again, but starts up and runs on all 8. A few times, it failed the glow plug lamp output test and I have had quite a few keep alive memory codes pop up. I tried a good test idm, checked fuel pressure, base oil pressure, dead head high pressure pump, leak checked each head for oil leaks, wiggled the harness, inspected pins and connections on what I believe are all the connections for the pcm/idm to engine - 4 connectors on inner fender skirt, idm/pcm conenctions, valve cover gasket connections, engine to chassis connection on the left valve cover. Removed the central junction box, no signs of water. Load tested power and ground s to the pcm and idm with a 55watt head lamp OK. Right now I am leaning towards a pcm because it randomly started failing the glow plug light during the self test and the random keep alive memory codes. Any input is very much appreciated.

Check #2 and #8 closely. Perform relative compression test, manual compression test and check the blow by for unevenness.Blow by can be in spec even with a bad cylinder.

This truck has an egr delete installed. Makes me wonder if the silicone hose could have a flapper from possible getting cut when reinstalled....

Not following you? Heater core is not plumbed in series with the oil cooler. I thought of residual stop leak in the heater core, but seeing the temps increase quickly shortly into the first road test had me thinking that the cooler could not possibly plug that quick.

07 f-550, came to me on the hook for a no icp issue. Found failed ipr valve, screen loaded with debris. This engine was hammered - right bank of pistons had been overheated, someone put new a t stat and water pump in this. I sell him a rebuild, bored the block, redid the heads, new ford oil cooler, found some stop leak in the radiator so I sent that out and had it boiled and flow tested. Take it for a ride and I can see the oil temp gets to 220 driving around town, 250 when running the hills on the highway. - no lights no codes. Pull over on the highway and the oil temp comes down to 215ish within a few minutes...at this point I felt that the truck is big and heavy, the cooler cooled the oil down relativly quick whithout a load.. I let the customer take it, he calls me, wrench light is on. I go to his location, p012f stored. He stated that after running his pto driven air compressor (this is a tire truck) for a half hour the light came on. Looking for some suggestions. Have we seen any garbage oil coolers from Ford? What are the thresholds that set this fault. This block was tanked and cleaned as was the radiator prior to my reassembly. I noticed the temps high within 25mins of the first roadtest.

For the trans, you will need the allison DOC software. You can use the inline 6 for the trans, abs and as you know, the engine. I can't speak specifically on the engine you are troubleshooting, but, smart actuators do not communicate on the actual 1939. They talk on a private high speed data link like the 1939. This will typically consist of the egr valve, turbo actuator, and ITV. This will be wired direct to to the ecm, the ecm will then distribute that info if needed/as needed to other modules that are on the 1939. 1939 modules would be abs, trans ecu, body controller, engine ecm, and certain body controls for specialized equipment such as a fire truck pumper. A green and yellow twisted pair is no longer specific to the 1939 link anymore. For example, the IH will use the yellow/green combo for the body builder data link. A handy tool to keep in the tool box is the bendix abs communication tester. This plugs into the ata connector. It will light up labeled led lights for each module that is found on each the 1939 data link and the 1708 link.

Well, the base oil pressure was low. Down to 20 psi at 150 degree oil temp. You can here the rod bearings clattering around just after start up.

2005 F-350 5.4 3v. Came in with codes p0340, p0300, p0303 p0304 Customer had it elsewhere and told him the phasers were bad due to the p0340 code The phaser is not making any noise until it is up to temp. Cylinder balance shows a cyl 1 and 5 a bit on the lower side. Relative compression shows #3,4 down around 15%. Cranking is uneven. My question is, can a cam phaser cause the compression to be low in a cylinder? I have yet to check base engine oil pressure. Engine has 95k on it, truck is well worked.