blown99

Did you replace the oil rail nipples and the internal injector o-ring or just the internal injector o-ring and the standpipe/dummy plug seals?

That IH kit has long been obsolete. I think the last time I had my hands on it was 2007. I would see the 525 code on split shot (usually AD injectors) around 130,000miles. You need to have several (3 or more) that do not buzz in order for the current draw to be enough to set the fault code.

Yes, they can see more than you can with a snapshot, (this was per my cse) Big bore tech group is by far the best of the group and they tend to give out the most info. The I6 and v8 guys treat you like a puppet and waste hours of valuable time. EGR valves are a common source of low power under load, plugged map sensors, and air control valves are still giving issues.

I had my own personal truck gell up on me the other day. It was -12 (f), had about a half a tank from my normal fuel station. I had dumped one entire bottle of the stanadyne winter anti gel addative into it a few days before. Truck started right up in the cold temp. Drove about 5 miles to the interstate. Made it 2 miles down the interstate and it jsut shut off, no indication of low power etc. Keyed it on and off a few times, could hear the fuel pump cavitating. I did not have any 911, but I did have a quart of PS (white bottle) Dumped that in. Rocked the heck out of the bed/truck to stir it a bit. Got it to start. It would run for 3mins then stall again under load. Got it off the interstate and to a gas station. Topped it off with fresh warm fuel and all was good from that point on. I was pretty dissapointed in the standayne addative. First and last time I will be using it. I have always used power service with good results. Truck is an 08, superduty 6.4l.

I keep all these parts in stock, including the tool to remove the nipple retainer. I also have just the o-ring for behind the nipple if your customer does not want to replace the nipple. I offer the bostech brand nipple kit, the alliant o-ring kit for both the nipple and injector internal seal. Shoot me a pm for pricing.

Every 6.0 head that I take off gets sent out to be checked. I have had one set ever, that did not need to be cut. We take .002" off at a time to get them flat. Typically we end up with .007-.009" off to get them flat. We have had heads right from the parts dept warped out of spec.

Just an update on this. I removed the left motor mount, left all the rockers and push rods in place, had no issues at all, other than it was just tight. My modified cup tool that I used for UPS cars, worked perfect. Thanks for the suggestions, it save me the r&d time.

I am familiar with the technique, just never replaced them in an e series and want to be sure that clearance will not be an issue. I made a similar tool using a socket to act as a puller.

I have an 01 e series van in the shop that needs a set of injector cups. Just looking for tips on doing these in chassis to make life less stressful. Can they be done in chassis? This is a service body so removing the cab is not an option. Thaks in advance for any tips.

As far as the uptime procedures go, the 03my engines received the air managment kit as Bruce's picture illustrated. The 04 and up varied depending on the customer. UPS received the best treatment. They all received the updated oil cooler, coolant filter kit, stc fitting kit, turbo recon, updated rear gear train. The 05 engines recieved rocker arms, rocker pedestals, push rods and rocker clips as well. All received low coolant level switch's and programming. The IH units eat FICM's as well. I laugh a lot on the stuff that the ficm repair guys have on their websites claiming heat and vibration from the module being mounted in the engine bay being the cause of the failure. The DT uses the same ficm with NO issues. The vt 275 has the ficm mounted on the chassis and has the same failure rate as the 365. We used to have NO failures on the ficm until the programming was changed to mask failing injectors caused by stiction. Injectors are the same between the two manufactures. IH for a while was replacing all the injectors if you had more than a couple that had failed. Head gaskets are not an issue on the IH chassis. With lower ICP, lower engine speed (2600 rpm) less boost, the engine is not stressed like the Ford application.

This is a common problem on these engines. The o-ring is available separatly. On the IH side we had a recall on the standpipes and dummy plugs for all the 4.5l, they just hammered the o-rings to death. Found this plug loose on many of the units I dug into for the recall.

I used to get school buses that had similar issues. The first one received pistons, rings etc. Found the rings stuck on the ring lands. After the first one, I would remove the glow plugs, add a few squirts of oil down the glow plug hole, reinstall the glow plugs, disable the glow plug system, small sniff of ether and they would fire right up. There were no long term negative effects; I was concerced about the stuck rings causing uneven cylinder wear, pisotn noise etc. I would typically get a few of these buses towed in in August after they sat for the summer, the wet carbon around the rings would stick the rings and cause the low compression.

I tried the matco and the snap on 3/8 I liked the matco. It cost more, but it has the lithium battery vs the nicads. I can run it for several days without having to charge it. Has plenty of power for a 3/8 gun. Wish I had one years ago.

Hey guys, looking for a VCM or VCM II for a reasonable price. It needs to be reliable and not a clone. Please let me know what you have. Thanks

I have run across this a few times with guys that installed egr deletes. If I remember correctly, they were 04 MY trucks. Everything worked fine until they installed the delete kit. They ended up having a custom tune written for them and installed it to repair the egr to fan issue.

I've sold hundreds of the halfshells in the past couple years with no warranty claims. The revised solder and components seem to be doing their job.

How many of these are you guys seeing?

That helps a ton! Thanks

1FMEU33888UB03891 Thanks!

Need some info on the Adrenaline package for an 08 sport trac. Vin is 8UB03891 Does this have AWD? What letter in the vin tells if it is AWD? and what should it be? I looked it up by vin in the parts catalog and it does show a transfer case but the selling dealer has it listed as a rwd. Many issues with the 6r60 trans?

Yes, it will sneak out with lifting up the crank with the rods attached. You should replace the main bearings though as they are a crush fit design. Be sure to change the oil cooler, inspect the front cover and oil pump, ipr screen/ipr valve. I pull the oil cooler, and hpop and flip the engine upside down on a bench after I take the heads off, then remove the bed plate and lift the crank about an inch, slip the cam out.

There is a body builder pig tail under the hood, group of purple wires that would interface with your pto switches. Can you use ids to program specific engine speeds? I have seen guys wire up fuel shut off solenoids to the throttle pedal to get their desired speed for pto operation. The solenoid would push on the throttle pedal with the flip of a switch.

I made mention of this because the IH vt365 6.0l does not have any issues with the dummy plugs and or standpipe o-rings like the powerstroke 6.0 and vt 275. The vt 365 runs a max of 2400 psi. The added pressure takes a toll on the o-rings. I sell a lot of standpipes and dummy plugs to the ford guys that claim to have deteriorated dummy plug seals.

IH had a recall on the standpipes and dummy plugs for these engines. That was a money maker once you learned how to squeeze the valve covers out past the cab mounts. The icp on these engines reach 3200psi, quite a bit higher than the vt365 (which uses the same dummy plugs and stand pipes) I figure the increase in icp is what has been destroying the o-rings in this engine.

Yes, it is possible for an injector to bleed off enough to cause the 333 code. Not to common though. To check, get the breather tube assemble into the valve cover worked free, run the engine in the shop, get the oil temp up to 185 or hotter. Shut off the engine, remove the valve cover as quick as possible - remove the ac compressor and the cover slips right out. Unplug all the injectors, install your breakout t into the IPR valve and full field the ipr. Have somebody crank the engine and look for oil coming out of the injector return port. One of them will have an excess amount of oil compared to the others that will be coming out of this port. If they are all equal, then move on. With the valve cover off and the ipr energized, with someone cranking the engine, look for oil leaks around the injector body indicating a failed upper o-ring.