blown99

Done a few myself, just the ujoints though as I could not find the center ball. Like mentioned above, drive the cups in to remove them. Price for this job equals a new shaft so it is not cost effective for the customer.

They "told me" the top half is all new. I have not verified this....... No they do not change the spool valve. The only injector reman companies that change the spool valves are the oem Ford/IH. They held the tooling captive. Alliant was not the oe supplier for the 6.0 injector. Also if you read the warranty on the alliant injector - they give you one free cleaning of the spool valve per warranty period. I stopped selling their injectors due to high warranty claims, however, supposedly they have revamped their reman procedure which has dropped their warranty claims. Alliant is getting a lot of their product from China and reboxing. I buy some product from the company that sells to them...

A local indy shop has an 06 superduty with a 6.0l with 220,000 miles on it. It was in need of a dash cluster. He found a used one with 125k on it. He is a dealer so he needs the mileage to be correct for paperwork etc. How do I go about using my IDS to properly program the mileage. A quick run down of the procedure would be great as I probably will do this at their place and won't have my reference materials if needed with me. Is the mileage stored in the ecm or cluster on these?

This info came from service portal - Internationals tech info log in site. They are basically revamping it, NETS has been around since the late 90's. I am not sure exactly as to what they are changing and updating but will keep you posted.

No you can not use the ic4 with servicemaxx. NETS changed the password/logins a few months ago. It required new logins and passwords. NETS is in the process of being taken down in the near future...

We used to get 8hrs to r&r both head gaskets. 6.9 were known for cracking inside the cylinder allowing coolant into the cylinder. Head gaskets were somewhat common. Check the precombustion chambers and make sure they are snug in the head - ether will loosen them up. Set the pump timing at 5 degrees with a timing light.

Yes, it is for the rail pressure spiking high.

That is was I did. Every injector leaked out the return port to some extent. None leaked out of the pintle. I see no leaks on the rail, lines or any area that could leak into the crankcase. Most likely what you mentioned is the cause of the excessive fuel in the crankcase coupled with the normal regen oil growth.

Did you check for shiny's in the upper fuel filter? -15 fuel trims could be metal under the injector pintle. There are shiny particles in the upper filter housing. This truck has a complaint of excessive fuel in the oil too. Pulled the injectors and flipped them upside down, Every injector is leaking out the return port to some degree. How much fuel leakage is acceptable out of these ports? How does this prove that that injector is the cause of the fuel getting into the oil, that port drains into the return rail no the crankcase. Will be working on replacing the hpfp.

Relative compression is ok with none more than 1% low. Removed the lower cac tube, no oil in the cooler.

#6 is showing -15 on the fuel trim, #2 about -8 on the power balance but showing #4 on the fuel trim.

I have a 2010 6.4 that came in today with the p0088 fault, engine light on, complaining of "limp" mode. I road tested and can't duplicate the fault. Ran the high pressure pump test - passed. I called my local Ford shop and had him run the vin for this tsb. He said it did not look like the tsb was ever done. I reflashed with IDS, the old calibration was a 8u7a-12a650-hdb The new cal with IDS was a 8u7a 12a650-hdc Did the old calibration have the fix for this fault code? I took the truck for a ride and was unable to duplicate the complaint again, but if the old cal had the "fix" then I need to price a hpfp job for the guy. Truck has a host of other issues too - two injectors that have low fuel trims, exhaust manifold leak, complaint of fuel in the oil.

I agree 100%. The cap is a check valve. The system is supposed to run at the rated cap pressure, then bleed off excess pressure from that point on. You may not reach the caps rated pressure on a basic road test, but load the engine and you will see every tight cooling system will get to that pressure. Pressure spikes are a different story though. Good info on the mishimoto. I installed one for a guy in April. It lasted 4 months, now leaking on the driver side, about 4" up. Kind of looking like it is coming out of the weld. Waiting for him to come back in so I can replace it under Mishimoto's BS warranty.

Any updates on this? I have had several bad out of the box Ford injectors that I have been fighting to get paid for the labor. They replace the part but have been non payers on the $150 labor payout that they offer.

I ended up pressurizing each bank with 120 psi into the fuel rail. Set the coolant level to max. I could see the coolant level dribble over the fill neck on the passenger side for about an hour. After an hour, the air pressure finally pushed the fuel through the crack and I was able to see the air bubbles. Found #5 to have a pin hole on the exhaust side of the injector bore. I ended up machining a good used head and replacing it.

Truck is an 04. About 3 months ago I did a set of head gaskets on this truck. Sent the heads out to be machined, installed new cups and guide seals. Came in today for something unrelated, popped the hood and found the fuel in the coolant. With the truck hot, I pressurized the fuel lines going to the each individual head. I was unable to isolate which head it was as the coolant level did not rise, no bubbles nothing. Customer stated that he was taking about a gallon of coolant out every couple of weeks so it is a small leak. Has anyone ever seen a cup actually cause this concern? I am looking at heads I have on the shelf and see no way that it could happen. Is there another method of isolating which head may be cracked? Removing the injectors and spraying them with soapy water and pressurizing the cooling system does not seem like a worthy diag when the cups don't even see fuel.

Just had an 08 with 190k dropped off at my door for a popping noise when running. Appears to be popping back through the intake. Customer just bought this at the auction (wonder why) Ran a power balance test. All cylinders are even. Run a relative compression test. #2 constantly came up short at about 8% low. Cut open the oil filter, no metal found in it. Remove the valve cover. Rockers in tact still, clips in place (hard to tell with it installed if they are worn). It is blacker than black under this valve cover. Going to pull the rockers tomorrow - will they sneak out with the fuel rail in place? Where are you guys bar ing the engine over on these without disassembling the front half of the truck - I want to check cam lobe lift.

If you look at the body of the ford injector above the area that the hold down clamp sits in; it is etched with the word REMAN and a number. All of the aftermarket injectors will have machined the word REMAN out of the body. The finish is rougher (looks like it was spun on a lathe with a rough pass) Also the pass through connector - OEM's have an orangish yellow bar code, most of the aftermarkets have no bar code.

I see #8 showing in the 8-9% with a new set of injectors with the grey sensor on a regular basis. I also always swap out to the old black sensor or blue for inj. diag. Try a running compression test . I have seen issues with worn valve guides causing similar complaints. The base cranking compression would be ok and indicate no issues. The running compression test would pinpoint the cylinder with the issue.

International does not offer the gaskets separately. The vendors offering the package deals; we just yank the extras out of the ford box and drop the price on the studs to make it a competitive price point. I sell 20 sets of the victor gaskets a week and install them too. Never an issue with these. .

These ecms can be flashed with a programmer such as an SCT brand device or piggybacked out the J3 port with a chip. I did find the problem. Found the timing disc on the crank shaft was loose. The hub was hucked out along the key way area allowing the disc to retard and advance timing. Root cause was the crank damper bolt was only finger tight. I removed the crank sensor and was able to look through the hole in the front cover. Using a pick, I was able to see the timing disc flop back and forth. Pulled the cover, replaced the disc. Flashed the ecm. Car ran like it should.

I spent sometime today with this car. I don't believe I can call hotline as I am now an indy. I attempted to program again but am not sure it actually blanked the module. I had a superchips programmer kicking around, I used that to adjust the axle ratio and am running that on justt the fuel economy tune (at least the speedo is not reading 120+ anymore) Found the fuel pressure to be in the low 30's under load. Dropped the tank. Found the svt focus pump in there, basket installed backwards and just sitting unclipped. Had a lot of dirt in the screens. Replaced the pump with a stock unit, cleaned the tank, repalced the filter and assembled it correctly. Still have the same low power issue, timing is pulled to 14-12 degrees once load is brought up to 60% or so. Tested the egr valve, OK no leaks, ran the maf and tp test ok. Noticed that when I am hitting bumps on the highway or have a stretch to run the engine out, it will surge and gain power (plugged fuel filter type feeling) but only when stretching the gears up around 5k rpm. Load at idle will be at 11% at times, this should be 20% correct? Cracked timing disc? this has an aftermarket crank pully. Timing is pretty solid at idle though. Suggestions?

I have this 02 mustang gt, manual trans, that my customer just purchased. Complaint is very low power. I took it for a ride, no codes, no noises, mechanically it is all there. Found the ecm to pull timing, almost immediatly to 14 degrees once the engine comes up to about 3600rpm. Lugging the engine will drop the timing to 6 degrees. Car can not pull a hill on the highway in 5th gear. After looking over the car, I suspected an aftermarket calibration in the ecm. 14 degrees is the magic number for supercharged 4.6l 2v. The car has no cats and no check engine light, I did not see MIL eliminators on it. My job here is to get the power back and install cats, make it legal etc. I used IDS to do an ecm update, got a prompt that said ecm was at the latest cal. Went and hit program as replace ecm, appeared to program it. Took it for a ride with the same results. I happened to have a different MAF off a 99 lightning. I plugged that into it and the car ran 80% better. Reinstalled the original maf (reman maf btw) and ran the maf test in IDS, keeps failing that test. Customer wanted me to stop at that point and decided he would replace the MAF. Well, that did not fix his issue (told him my test maf would have a different curve to it) Does programming the ECM with IDS rewrite over the aftermarket calibrations? How do I use IDS to see if my rear o2's are still on? being monitored - monitor screen shows incomplete Found the ecm has been out of the car, has magic marker on it that says 4900. No signs of a chip being in it. Couple bolts on the intake were loose, aftermarket crank pully, rear gears have been changed and a bunch of suspension work. It is clear that someone played with this car and I still suspect aftermarket tuning, is there a specific procedure needed to reflash?

I have been selling and installing a bunch of these tanks. Nice quality, all mine have had metal drain plugs so far. I too had to call and question the sender mounting. Like you said, do one and the rest are a breeze.

I just ran into this tonight myself. To me, it looked like the wix filter seals on the stand tube in the filter housing vs the oem uses the snout with the o-ring to seal to the aluminum bore. If I remember correctly, that flapper is a pressure regulator of only a few psi for the hfcm. Filtered fuel goes through the outside of the filter element, then through the standpipe. The wix filter bottoming in the filter housing does not create the seal for the filter, the filter sealing on the standpipe is what makes the seal.