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I went through a spurt of ficms popping the 50a fuse and voltage dropping to zero from ficmrepair. We continued to use him until a customer showed up with an atlas 80 from Ed (ficmrepair), and Ed said he wouldn't warranty it. Well,, he hasn't made a single sale through me since then. The irony is,, I have an 05 ambulance and an 03 f series at the shop that are owned by Ed. He balked at the $9k price to get the ambulance engine done,, then put in the 03. He is the most expensive place to buy a Ficm,,, But he obviously doesn't like being on the other side of the price coin. Lol. Can't wait to get that crap off my lot btw.

I've actually proven that to not be the case on all pumps. I have had both early and late model pumps gurgle through the oil filter stand pipe and they are in service as we speak.

Update,,, the pump is fine and the truck is back in service. So I still haven't seen a late model pump go bad. I actually got a bonus yesterday and got an extra pump on a salvage engine I bought.

The AER rep that came out said that whatever they say will at least ensure the new block (if its this one or another) will be covered at least. He was just as concerned when he saw my concerns with his own eyes. So at least they are standing up and making sure it's right. I just got a call that there is another truck out east that just had the same thing happen and the local dealer said all they are getting is an injector. He called us and asked how we got Ford to cover it. I guess us spending 100k+ this year didn't hurt our chances.

Now that's funny!!!! I think this block is determined to not stay. Lol. AER showed up to check on what I'm complaining about. He took pics of the deck surface and the cyl walls and I'm on hold until I find out if they say go on the install. I haven't bolted anything on the block. I'm not sure if its even going to stay. Those surfaces are bugging the heck outta me. It sucks to put something together when I have very little faith in the repair. Not to mention we had to set the cab down and push her outside for a couple weeks. Got me forgetting stuff. Good catch tho. I actually pulled the block back out hoping they will send a different one. Fat chance,, but I want to tell them it's already been pulled out,, not that it matters.

The shorter 6.4 push rods are actually the only ones available now. We never reinstall the .5 mm longer ones once the are removed. I have another video about the HG that was unprotected with only cardboard and was placed under the head in the box. I mean,,, wtf. I'm not even going to use it. I will take another video of the deck surface because I stoned it a bit. I can actually see machining marks now. I use a very fine sharpening stone and wd40 to clean both heads and blocks on regular HG jobs. It works very well. It brings out the stock milling on the surfaces. I know it's scary to think about because of being a stone and its removing material, but a careful hand and a lil attention to detail goes a long way. I've had skeptics in the shop about using the stone and they have watched me do it and I have made all of them believers. I will throw some more videos soon. I'm very concerned about the cross hashes being non existent. Wonder how long until the rings burn up the cyl walls?? I sure wish I would've just built it. I can honestly say,, I will never,,,, ever,,, purchase a head or block from Ford. I actually am having another rebuildable shortblock delivered tomorrow. Its an 07. I have a deal with a big local salvage yard that I will buy all of them they have for dirt cheap (270),, and the kicker is that if they don't bore at .020,,, I can return it. Yeah,, I'm out the time of breaking it down,, but I keep the machine shop very busy and they will check the bores for free. I think the one I'm getting tomorrow will take me to 7 shortblocks on hand. I've gotten them before with front n rear covers,, hpop n covers,, oil cooler covers n adapters,, and I've had to use some of them before. It's always nice to have extra engines laying around. The salvage yard actually hooked me up with a full dress minus injectors on a deal that I will pay 500 once I break it down if the heads aren't cracked. Sounds like I should stick to buying parts only from the dealer huh??

Well,, I got my first Ford shortblock and Ford head. Not really impressed. Hope you guys don't burn me for it. But I have a couple videos.

It's a sprayfest when I put the plugs in too with the pump running. Especially after one of them is already in lol. I just did a set today exactly like you mentioned Matt. Do you have a part # for the seal on the plug? We are only able to replace the plugs (which is what we do on all of them. I got a chassis side harness out of an 08.

Well,,, they approved a short block and one head and everything else needed to install. Not sure what we are gonna get for labor yet tho. Just updating.

Hindsight is always better,,, I should've submerged the pump in oil and spun the gear to get it coated with oil huh??? I dropped the ball on that. I did that before when there was metal in the oil on a different truck.

Hey guys,,, I've got a first for me. I have an 05 in. The gasket melted in the oil cooler housing surrounding the coolant input from the block to the oil cooler cover. When we pulled the oil cooler the reservoir was completely full of straight coolant(there was oil but mostly coolant). When we pulled the hpop, the feed passage was also full of straight coolant. So we fixed it all and put it back together and it has a long crank. ICP has been bleeding to zero. I retested (air thru IPR) and its gurgling from the oil filter housing. Coolant took the late model pump out???? I know it wasn't ran with the coolant for very long,, because it hasn't turned to milkshake. Thoughts???

I did the one in the video just like yours Matt. I tapped it just like normal,, then put epoxy around the outside of the threads. Very ghetto repair,, but it worked. We get radiators for about $200 (but get a couple bucks more at the sale) so I have just replaced whenever they come in broken.

I agree the gauge pegged,,, but it had to peg for longer than 2 miles for this.

Hey guys,, what are your thoughts on this. It was a small town shop that plugged the degas vent hose from the radiator. Do you all think an air bubble got trapped and stuck at the coolant pump?? The customer said the gauge was pegged for about 2 miles. I'm not so sure about that. Unless the oil cooler was completely plugged,, his coolant had to be boiling. Isn't it 350* to melt the plastic?