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I went through a spurt of ficms popping the 50a fuse and voltage dropping to zero from ficmrepair. We continued to use him until a customer showed up with an atlas 80 from Ed (ficmrepair), and Ed said he wouldn't warranty it. Well,, he hasn't made a single sale through me since then. The irony is,, I have an 05 ambulance and an 03 f series at the shop that are owned by Ed. He balked at the $9k price to get the ambulance engine done,, then put in the 03. He is the most expensive place to buy a Ficm,,, But he obviously doesn't like being on the other side of the price coin. Lol. Can't wait to get that crap off my lot btw.

I've actually proven that to not be the case on all pumps. I have had both early and late model pumps gurgle through the oil filter stand pipe and they are in service as we speak.

Update,,, the pump is fine and the truck is back in service. So I still haven't seen a late model pump go bad. I actually got a bonus yesterday and got an extra pump on a salvage engine I bought.

The AER rep that came out said that whatever they say will at least ensure the new block (if its this one or another) will be covered at least. He was just as concerned when he saw my concerns with his own eyes. So at least they are standing up and making sure it's right. I just got a call that there is another truck out east that just had the same thing happen and the local dealer said all they are getting is an injector. He called us and asked how we got Ford to cover it. I guess us spending 100k+ this year didn't hurt our chances.

Now that's funny!!!! I think this block is determined to not stay. Lol. AER showed up to check on what I'm complaining about. He took pics of the deck surface and the cyl walls and I'm on hold until I find out if they say go on the install. I haven't bolted anything on the block. I'm not sure if its even going to stay. Those surfaces are bugging the heck outta me. It sucks to put something together when I have very little faith in the repair. Not to mention we had to set the cab down and push her outside for a couple weeks. Got me forgetting stuff. Good catch tho. I actually pulled the block back out hoping they will send a different one. Fat chance,, but I want to tell them it's already been pulled out,, not that it matters.

The shorter 6.4 push rods are actually the only ones available now. We never reinstall the .5 mm longer ones once the are removed. I have another video about the HG that was unprotected with only cardboard and was placed under the head in the box. I mean,,, wtf. I'm not even going to use it. I will take another video of the deck surface because I stoned it a bit. I can actually see machining marks now. I use a very fine sharpening stone and wd40 to clean both heads and blocks on regular HG jobs. It works very well. It brings out the stock milling on the surfaces. I know it's scary to think about because of being a stone and its removing material, but a careful hand and a lil attention to detail goes a long way. I've had skeptics in the shop about using the stone and they have watched me do it and I have made all of them believers. I will throw some more videos soon. I'm very concerned about the cross hashes being non existent. Wonder how long until the rings burn up the cyl walls?? I sure wish I would've just built it. I can honestly say,, I will never,,,, ever,,, purchase a head or block from Ford. I actually am having another rebuildable shortblock delivered tomorrow. Its an 07. I have a deal with a big local salvage yard that I will buy all of them they have for dirt cheap (270),, and the kicker is that if they don't bore at .020,,, I can return it. Yeah,, I'm out the time of breaking it down,, but I keep the machine shop very busy and they will check the bores for free. I think the one I'm getting tomorrow will take me to 7 shortblocks on hand. I've gotten them before with front n rear covers,, hpop n covers,, oil cooler covers n adapters,, and I've had to use some of them before. It's always nice to have extra engines laying around. The salvage yard actually hooked me up with a full dress minus injectors on a deal that I will pay 500 once I break it down if the heads aren't cracked. Sounds like I should stick to buying parts only from the dealer huh??

Well,, I got my first Ford shortblock and Ford head. Not really impressed. Hope you guys don't burn me for it. But I have a couple videos.

It's a sprayfest when I put the plugs in too with the pump running. Especially after one of them is already in lol. I just did a set today exactly like you mentioned Matt. Do you have a part # for the seal on the plug? We are only able to replace the plugs (which is what we do on all of them. I got a chassis side harness out of an 08.

Well,,, they approved a short block and one head and everything else needed to install. Not sure what we are gonna get for labor yet tho. Just updating.

Hindsight is always better,,, I should've submerged the pump in oil and spun the gear to get it coated with oil huh??? I dropped the ball on that. I did that before when there was metal in the oil on a different truck.

Hey guys,,, I've got a first for me. I have an 05 in. The gasket melted in the oil cooler housing surrounding the coolant input from the block to the oil cooler cover. When we pulled the oil cooler the reservoir was completely full of straight coolant(there was oil but mostly coolant). When we pulled the hpop, the feed passage was also full of straight coolant. So we fixed it all and put it back together and it has a long crank. ICP has been bleeding to zero. I retested (air thru IPR) and its gurgling from the oil filter housing. Coolant took the late model pump out???? I know it wasn't ran with the coolant for very long,, because it hasn't turned to milkshake. Thoughts???

I did the one in the video just like yours Matt. I tapped it just like normal,, then put epoxy around the outside of the threads. Very ghetto repair,, but it worked. We get radiators for about $200 (but get a couple bucks more at the sale) so I have just replaced whenever they come in broken.

I agree the gauge pegged,,, but it had to peg for longer than 2 miles for this.

Hey guys,, what are your thoughts on this. It was a small town shop that plugged the degas vent hose from the radiator. Do you all think an air bubble got trapped and stuck at the coolant pump?? The customer said the gauge was pegged for about 2 miles. I'm not so sure about that. Unless the oil cooler was completely plugged,, his coolant had to be boiling. Isn't it 350* to melt the plastic?

I actually have gotten paid on the warranty. They do take their sweet little time doing it,, but we have gotten checks.

They are kicking the can on this. The parts manager said Ford has 30 days to approve or deny the claim. Is that true? I have been looking at the truck on our lot for an eternity it seems. I just set the cab on the frame and pushed it out.

Here are a couple videos I took. It will not let YouTube videos upload. I've tried twice. Here is a couple pics of the damage The block was already .010 over and the machine shop said another .010 won't cut the grooves out. We will see if Ford approves the claim for one head and a shortblock. I should find out tomorrow.

That's the 6007 "full dress". I can't sell those. I'd be out of business very quickly if I let trucks leave paying $13k without studs. Or I could charge $14+ to buy another set of hg's, the studs, and I'd be replacing the rocker box gaskets as well. And Id also be reringing the injectors to install the studs(unless the heads are clean enough to leave injectors in, hopefully they would be). I haven't found anyone that likes that deal. I'm better off buying the shortblock for $5k, then two heads for $2100, and assembling it myself. But the shortblock only has a 12/12 warranty. I think it's one of the only parts that didn't get the 2yr warranty extension. Ford doesn't want to sell shortblocks. I did shoot a video showing this truck. He only got 4 injectors, hpop n cover, fan clutch, ect.

I hear you all on the ford long block. I will still have to remove the heads to stud it. I just can't go that far and hope swapping bolt for stud actually holds. My cost on a long block is just north of $9k. So that leaves 4k for everything else. Including labor. With the fan clutch, studs, 4 injectors, hpop cover, oil cooler, and hpop,, I'd be starving if we went that route. I just got home from a couple hundred mile trip in this truck and its all done. He only owes about $2k more to pay off the parts,, but he's bringing almost $8k. I like those numbers.

Yeah I was aware of that,, he had about .0018 across about 1 1/2" area. Little too close for my warranty. Lol

His bill would've been crazy high tho. We weren't about to walk from the labor he already owed us. Only after the heads were done, and 3 injectors were bought, installed, n ran. Did we see the block needed to come out. This is the first time I've seen a block not check out, so in turn I wasn't very concerned about it UNTIL I checked it. He was 3500 into it before the block. Not including any R&I labor. He'd be paying almost 15k with a 6007. And personally,, I've had quite a few of those all black engines in,, and I'm leery to sell them. Although the warranty IS a major selling point.

Hey guys,, So a truck came in on the hook,, no start. 04 with 225k mi. Pulled IPR, ran air test,, Leaking at what appeared to be the j tube or the pump itself. Put a known good in and she fired. Hmmmmm. This truck needed 3 injectors, fan clutch, tstat, n an upper rad hose. So I caulked it to another IPR. Got that job done and his bill was about 2400. I went ahead n drove it home to confirm the no start was fixed. The next morn it had an extremely long crank. Well crap!!! I had to call and tell him his pump might be going,,, or the j tube had rubbed through. I pulled the IPR again the next morning and the screen broke off. So I got my phone and was videoing to get the screen out. It was then I noticed there was a clean, rust free section under the IPR bore on the cover. Then I looked closer in the bore itself,, there was about 1/4 of the threads that were smooth,,, I mean not stripped,,, smooth!!! I pointed this out to him and said we need to disassemble to inspect further. Did I mention I ran a degas gauge on my trip home?? Yup,, blown. So as we were discussing options and costs,,, he decided to go ahead n get the hg's buttoned up. This took him into the 7-8k range. Actually high 8k range cause I sold him on a y pipe n the hpop (no matter if its not the culprit due to miles). Remember the first 2400 bill? So we got the cab up n got to it. The machine shop called n said the seats need redone. Another 1000. So he's in the 9k range. THEN IT GETS REAL GOOD!!!! The customer was at the shop,, I had the block ready for reassembly and I yelled at him to come here n let's spec his block. I got the straight edge and a .0015 feeler. He was sitting there watching me. After about twenty spots,,,, the feeler slid right under!!!!! OH CRAP!!!! He was watching too (thank god). I showed him how n let him check it. By then this customer is feeling like a train just ran over him. He knew what it meant. I stopped all work n we shut down for the night. I talked to him the next day after emotions are a lil calmer and told him that there's no way I can warranty the hg's. so he's now on for a full on rebuild. An overhaul kit is only available in .010 over. Not standard. So we had to bore and deck the block. We should be firing it tomorrow and his bill is just north of 13k!!!!!! Oh man he wishes he could tell the future. We did a rebuild a while ago that was 13k,, and he got all new injectors n a hpop and both harnesses. Back to the hpop cover,, I will take a video of this job and show the cover. It is obviously a manufacturer defect. The bare spot in the bore is too clean to be stripped. He also got a hpop cover. Life is rough for him these days huh??? He mentioned a Craigslist reman a couple days ago. I told him my experiences with them and he opted not to do that. Most people I get in this situation say they have no plans to ever get rid of the truck. I always ask when the job gets this deep to see where their expectations are. We finished building the longblock and put it in chassis and Julie told me he is in the 13k range. I was expecting 11k range. I stopped then and waited for the customer to come by to give him the option to do a reman from one of those engine builders. I told him I will gladly keep the engine we just built. He said "HELL NO". Lol. I just didn't want him to feel trapped into our engine. Oh I didn't mention the crappy spot on one of the cam lobes that warrantied cam replacement. At least the crank was good. Lol. That's about it tho. I'm gonna shoot a video to show pics of all the broken crap. He came in for a couple injectors n a no start,, n is leaving with the kitchen sink. Lol. What do you guys think?? I'm all ears for suggestions on how you all would've handled it.

I forgot to update here,, but got mine wrapped up. It was an 08 with a 6007 installed two years ago. There was no protection at all on the wiring and it was shorted out. Got it done and hopefully it stays together. I figured that engine would have had an updated harness by the age. But no dice.

I was aware of replacing all the ones on the bank. I hadn't thought about it tho. I should've bubble tested. From how the truck ran, I chalked it to stiction. Guess I need to start testing more before going in. Any of you guys seen the actual injector cup crack? Those cups are not flimsy. I have a video showing the brush I use to clean the bore. I use wd/40 and a nylon round brush and I've had lots of success with it. Mainly to clean remnants of the orings and minor combustion,,, this is the worst one I've seen tho. I'm gonna have to suggest a stud job to be able to warranty the injectors. Depending on how clean the cups come in chassis.