blown99

Don't waste your time with service maxx on any DLCII ecm's. It sounds like you have a stiction issue, but a few things need to be checked first. Check for a 525 or 534 code. Either one of those would indicate a melted idm fuse or a failing idm causing low voltage to the injectors. You engine light would be on with these faults. Remove the egr valve and be sure it is closed and not stuck open. Do the injectors buzz/cycle when the key is turned on when the engine is cold? Perform the test that Bruce recommend - glow plugs and fuel pressure. Once the engine is running, immediately run the auto run injector disable test with master diagnostics 3 times. Which ever injectors fail the test every time are the ones that need to be replaced.

That is about a 30 sec. parameter change in the ecm with master diagnostics, very easy to do. No way that I can think of to "fool" the ecm.

Does your guys diesel hotline go to International's tech service line? (with the exception of the 6.7 issues)

I replaced the 8 injectors today, primed the fuel system and fired it up. Let it run for 15 secs, then shut it off and contacted hotline to see if I could put a pump in it (didn't want to contaminate the new injectors) They state that they have never seen a high pressure fuel pump cause a metal in fuel condition. The contaminants come from the fuel tank. I asked how does steel (what I found in the coffee filters) come from an aluminum fuel tank. They did not reply back. It is going back together and being returned to the customer... for now.

I have a bunch of suppliers/wholesalers that offer fuel shop rebuilt injectors. They only offer one injector for all model year 6.0's. They also only offer one size glow plug. IMO we know better, so we should put the correct parts in. There are plenty of other times for mistakes.

I removed an injector line on each bank and cranked the engine while catching the fuel in a coffee filter. I could see specs of metal. Maybe 5 specs from each side. Removed an injector, connected the fuel line and electrical connector and cranked the engine. No fuel coming out of injector even though my rail pressure is about 5,000psi and I have fuel pulswidth. Hotline wants a set of injector installed. I don't see anything in the fuel tank so I am suspecting a high pressure fuel pump to failing. Hotline won't go for the fuel pump just yet.

Spent some time on this today. Removed the turbo to access the fuel lines and bleed the system thoroughly. I have smoke out the right exhaust manifold, nothing out the left. FRP is much steadier now that I bleed the system at the pump. Installed block off plugs at the hpp to isolate each bank - still does not start. Performed manual compression test - all at 350 psi, all glow plugs good, no mist coming out of the glow plug ports while cranking to perform the compression test. I have a fuel pulswidth reading - this indicates cam and crank syn. and operation (for us anyways) Cranks about 235 rpm No Maf on ours. Next step is to pull the valve covers, remove an injector line and catch the fuel in a coffee filter - Guessing to check for metal from a failed pump???? I checked the 15 pin at the rocker box - no corrosion/water etc.

I have a maxx 7 (6.4) IH chassis, that I have taken over the diag on. Crank no start, died on the road. The previous guy replaced the frp sensor (don't know why) and they opened the fuel system. Some of the crank cycles the frp was reading 10,000-20000psi when the desired was around 4500psi. Other times I had 5-100psi. I would get a fault for unable to build fuel pressure when cranking - even though I had the 15000psi reading. Started off by checking my low pressure fuel - bled the air from the system and now have about 3 psi (in spec) Checked the inlet restriction - ok at 3" No air in the system up to the secondary filter at this point. I am in the process of removing the turbo to access the fuel line at the pump to be sure I have no air at the pump. My question is with the frp readings. Can I get a high pressure reading with air in the pump? The fpcv allowing a higher duty cycle because of the air, then the reading spikes? Some tips on diagnosing the pump would be helpful.

Looking for some info on glow plugs for 6.0l I thought there were two different length glow plugs for a 6.0l. What years had the short ones. Any chance there is a length spec anywhere. I have acquired bags of 6.0 glow plugs and am trying to sort them out and I have no ford part numbers on them. Thanks very much for the help.

I have very little faith in the blow bye test numbers. I use my eyes and hand and watch for a steady stream of blow bye. Any signs of a worn cylinder will be felt and or seen with a steady, then a heavier puff out the dip stick/ road draft tube. I had a DT that had an eaten up piston, misfire, heavy heavy white smoke that passed the blow bye test with flying colors. Anyway, I had limited tools today (and time) but messed with the scan tool a bit. Found today that I do have white smoke and a miss while snapping and or running the engine at high rpm, when the engine is cold (30 degrees) (I don't do this in the morning when going to work - I'll wake up the neighbors) Took to about a 76 degree oil temp before I no longer had any smoke at all when snapping the throttle. My mass fuel is at 10 when at operating temp. Bruce - didn't you say in a recent post that 12 would be the limit?

Have not checked the intake air heater. I thought those only came into operation when it was below 0?

I will check the drain plugs in the rear of heads for the oil. As far as compression being low - I did block the breather and removed the oil cap prior to a cold start. No blow bye out of the fill cap or dip stick tube. If it was not firing due to low compression, then I should have a skip to it. I will try the two fuel pressure gauge idea and see what the results point to. I wonder if I would notice a difference in heat with a ray tek gun if it was burning some oil on one bank vs straight fuel on the other??

02 f-350, blueish colored smoke out the tailpipe on a cold start, much more noticeable with temps below 40 degrees. Will smoke for several minutes while at idle. Once I begin to drive it, I no longer see the smoke. There is no misfire/skip,each glow plug pulls 20-25 amps. Oil changed every 5k with synthetic 5w40. Uses 2-3 qts during that time period. Fuel additive used at every fill. Injectors have a very strong buzz even when temps are in the low 20's. The smoke is not a consistent flow out the tailpipe - seems more like one or two cylinders. It had this issue last winter but has now gotton a little worse. I removed the fuel filter - I did not see any signs of oil in the filter housing but this oil is always clean - looks new type of clean, so I may not see any oil in the filter housing. I am still leaning towards an injector o-ring. What do you guys think?

Her carbon footprint is bigger than the entire truck.

I have one in my bay right now, popping out the intake. Passes the relative compression test with flying colors. No skip at all, pretty good tapping noise when decellerating. Had a code for #4 for cylinder balancing. No metal on the drain plug (where did the metal go??). Pulled the heads found the #4 exhaust lifter flat. I would pull the valve covers, if you don't see anything with the rockers/springs then it is a sure bet that the cam/lifter is failing.

Come on! Whats wrong with sitting on the GW bridge for 4 hrs watching people barbeque out of the 15th story window?

I went through the cummins training and IMO it was by far the best training program I have been through. When I did it several years ago it was on CD's. Each engine group had a cd packet that could take 10 plus hrs to complete. Once those prerequisites were complete, you do some in person classes then the big certification test. You would probably go to Denville, NJ for the cert test. Cummins insite software has its goods and bads, and seems a bit outdated and lacking in the data monitor areas, as well as being slow to read data. Very user friendly though and most troubleshooting can be done with the code info like diesel doc stated. I've been slacking with quickserve, don't see many cummins anymore so I don't use it to often, and now quickserve is getting difficult for me to find info efficiently.

The harnesses are not available through international. I have tried many times to get them for parts business and no luck. Local ford dealer prices are not competitive enough for internet sales.

Did some searching today. The 03 rings are the same as the newer rings according to the IH tsb.

So it is a different part being that it has a different number but do you know what the difference is between the two? I don't remember the last time I had an early turbo apart.

I have an 03 6.0 in need of a unison ring (so the customer says). I need to know if the later 04 and up unison ring is the same part number as the early 03 ring. The part number I have for the 04 and up is 4C4Z-6C885-A Thanks!

Just went and picked up a 2012, 2.5l xlt. They sure like to push that 100k bring it anywhere warranty. Do these use a modulated clutch in the transfer case to run power to the rear wheels for the 4wd/awd?

Yes, it is an on off switch, single wire.

Do you want an IH VIN that has this recall done to it? The "old" spring was a 40 psi spring. The new blue spring is 60 psi. I usually don't see much of a variance in pressure on a properly working system between idle and full load. The reason for the recall was the UPS chassis were having issues pulling fuel below 1/2 tank. IH wanted to alert the driver if there was an issue to save the injectors - the reason for the pressure sensor and calibration to turn on the feature. You would have no problem just installing the blue spring kit and running the engine without the updated calibration.

I would be buying brand new. She drives from house to house all day for her job, so reliability is at the top of the list. Probably 12-15K a year, but a lot of starts and stops, all back roads.