Keith Browning

I haven't seen any reference to this yet but I too have not gone looking specifically for anything. I am curious as to what and how this is going to correct radiator problems. Did I miss something?

I thought Fram was a cheapy. I recently did heads on a truck and the owner gave ME THE OIL AND FILTER he wanted IN THE TRUCK. The filter was a Fram so I assume the one I removed was too. The filter pleats were separating from the bottom cap.

A Hit by falling demand for Ford diesel pickups, International Truck and Engine will temporarily stop diesel production Friday at its Eastside Indianapolis engine plant, idling 500 workers through mid July, UAW Local 98 bargaining chairman Roland Rusie said today.

 

The plant supplies diesels for Ford pickups. Ford truck sales have slumped because of soaring fuel prices.

 

It is closing its pickup plant at Louisville, Ky., for one month.

 

In Indianapolis, International is tentatively set to resume diesel output on July 14, the end of the regularly scheduled three-week summer shutdown.

 

 

About 100 employees will continue working in International’s machine shop.

 

Next door, International Casting, the company’s the 550-employee foundry, will continue operations without layoffs, said Navistar spokesman Roy Wiley.

 

International is the operating arm of Warrenville, Ill.-based Navistar International.

That would be a good idea. Hey Jimmy? Is there a higher resolution version of it? I wouldn't mind posting/hosting it too as our streaming media server is sitting idle anyway!

Mike, I personally wouldn't get involved in that type of cab removal but depending on the configuration of the body and the attachment it can be done. Obviously busses and ambulances or any body that hangs over the cab wont allow cab removal I know there is an earlier topic on this but these pictures were posted by muttstang and pretty much explain your question.

That makes lifting an attractive option. I do recommend warming the body bolts like we do with the 2008 trucks only you have to warm up the tip from underneath. Otherwise the mount flexes and absorbs the torque and just laughs at you as you try to remove the bolts.

Ahhh! What do you guys know about cool? I make this shit look goooood! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

If you are using Tracerline UV dye the ratio is one bottle (1-oz.) per 5 quarts of oil.

 

I have noticed over the years that ratio is not always necessary depending on the fluid it is being added to and the CONDITION of the fluid. For instance transmission fluid allows dye to show with lighter concentrations as does power steering and even coolant. Diesel engine oil always requires 3 bottles in a 15 quart capacity engine and clean oil works best. Really filthy oil with a lot of soot seems to mask the dye..

 

How do I diagnose a leak? Patiently. If you are using dye, it needs to be mixed with the fluid and it needs time to reach the leak. I have found that dumping the dye directly into the oil fill causes it to slowly migrate into the oil. I will take a quart of oil and dump some out, empty all three bottles of dye into it, put the cap on and shake it up to pre-mix it, then I pour it into the engine. I like to get engines warmed up to operating temperature and actually drive them if the leak is not dripping. This is important with HEUI engines as a high pressure leak might only leak while driving under a load with ICP raised.

Stephen, the even is easier than 2007 and older Super Duty's in my opinion. I have three under my belt. You need to remember that it is more like an Excursion if you have ever done one, meaning you have to disconnect the fuel filler and look for other body connections from underneath. If I recall, there were a few things that were "sneaky" to me. Twice I snapped the braided ground at the right rear of the engine, there used to be a ground hidden under the bracket for the Power Distribution box. Other than that, disconnect the same stuff and once you get the body off you can see just how little room there really is! I think I have pictures too.

 

Of course, this all goes out the window if there were any major changes in the 2008 Econoline... other than the extended nose. I agree, that sucks!

Well Dave, you can look on the bright side, we might get lucky that the 6.4 wont have head gasket problems and the new stuff will keep things "fresh and interesting."

 

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Way to go Keith, look for the positives! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

I've taken to calling on hotline lots... for absolutely no reason other than being able to attach a printout of hotline recommendations along with the contact ID.

You betcha. This is a common sense topic. You simply cannot tell which of the two EGR coolers is leaking unless you REMOVE BOTH and TEST THEM BOTH. A shop manual section and page reference or a Hot-Line printout is all you need to combat these bean counters. He should have been paid to R&I both regardless of the fact that he only replaced one. We know this, the Hot-Line Engineers know this, the FSE's know this and the shop manual knows this. Why do we have to waste our time documenting this crap for these people?

I tell ya though, this one WILL fit in a Super Duty pick-up bed!

Since the new Fiesta will not have the diesel engine option for North America I found something else to consider, especially if oil prices continue to rise. There are Two in my area, one right in the neighborhood. It is actually made by Mercedes Benz and it boasts great fuel economy and cost of ownership. For something to go back and forth to work it might actually be a smart car to have.

 

smartusa.com

That is what that new Diesel ESP plan was for. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

We paint a coating of grease on the lug studs and wheel hubs, and they rarely give grief coming off again. All lug nuts are burped with a gun, but also hand torqued with a torque wrench to spec

But I have always been taught that lug nuts and studs should NEVER be lubricated and that they should be clean, dry and hand torqued. Wouldn't lubricating the threads cause the studs/nuts to actually be over-torqued risking a failure?

I found this link on Jimmy_Megginson's forum about producing oil/biodiesel from algae ---> http://www.oilgae.com/. Interesting reading.

Man you set yourself up with that statement! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

Great video. Itr does an nice job explaining the importance of the right filters and what can go wrong. Where did it come from?

Well Keith, what is the answer to the question?

I was really probing you guys for experiences and known issues. I am not sure there is any one answer.

 

But I can summarize this a bit. The truck is a 2005 E350 Quigley that has been problematic for, ohhh, maybe the last year. It started with a complaint of no power and I think smoking. Long story short, the technician originally replaced the EGR/cleaned the intake. It returned quickly with loud screeching noises first diagnosed as leaking EGR cooler exhaust gaskets. You know, that strange high-pitched screech? I remember this kicking his ass. We finally decided the turbo was bad. It was.

 

Along the way, the PCM had gotten one of those strange reflashes that affected performance so when it returned 10 minutes after being picked up, I got involved for the first time. It seemed normal to me but I was thinking "de-tuned" because it was a van after all. The van returned a few times only for us to come up empty handed - NPF. Ford got involved and the FSE came down and we had fun making data recordings and playing them back. At this point we finally could verify the customers complaint. Under full acceleration the engine just lacked that extra pull, didn't quite accelerate as quickly as it should. In one recording we observed that the EBP voltage at full throttle and RPM would jump to 4.98 volts. Ahhhh Haaaa! A new EBP cured it. For three months.

 

It returned a couple weeks ago doing the same thing. This time the EBP read properly and all other tests showed nothing unusual. Somebody asked what the load PID was at idle. 41% was the answer and I was told to install 8 new injectors. During the repair process I discovered the ground rear the bottom of the FICM bracket was cross threaded, snapped off and had been that way for some time as evidenced by the rust on the bolt. I repaired the ground and still have no idea if this had any affect on performance.

 

I assumed that one of the ground circuits was the FICM ground shield because it looked like it was. There is another ground attached there as well. Ever go looking at those grounds in the manual? I THINK they are G101 and G105 which are a PCM ground and supposedly a fuel pump(?) ground. When my head clears and I have another free moment I will research these grounds again. I am still licking my wounds from the injector R&R. 7.4 hours for 8 injectors "by the book SUCKS!

 

Oh wow, I wrote a short story! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif

I think it is required because it is the only course that covers anything on the LCF specific to it, most importantly, the engine. While we casually state it is a 6.0L with two cylinders lopped off it has some significant and very important design features that you must be aware of if you are going to make any base engine repairs. I recall the course was not all that bad. It was nicely paced and covered the vehicle fairly throughly building upon what you already know... the 6.0L and the Torqshift transmission. Some guys greatly benefit from the introduction to the Navistar powertrain control system, using MD Truck, NETS and Master Diagnostics.

Yup would mean that yes, the aftermarket program will be lost. The only problem is that IDS might not recognize the vehicle properly and you may have to enter the vehicle manually by entering the part number off of the PCM... I doubt you will find the tear tag but you never know. I prefer the PCM # any way. I ran into this twice before.

Dodged a bullet on this one. Got the pump off this morning and found a nice chunk missing from the front crank seal. WHEW!

Thumbs up for StreamLight for customer service and their product warranty. I recently had a * problem with my Twin-Task 3C flashlight and returned it to them under the provisions of their limited lifetime warranty. I got an brand new light in return. Not bad for a flash light I actually found and it only cost $10 shipping. This is no big deal I suppose but I was impressed and would buy another. The light itself is awesome to begin with so I recommend them.

 

 

* Problem = I left the light leaning against a turbo in an Econoline and went for a road test. The light still worked but the lens melted out of it and the switch no longer worked. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

I now have cut a nice piece out of the bottom of a fuel tank, enough to cut up into many test tiles. Problem is, I cant find a bio-diesel distributor but my brother-in-law works for a fuel company so I might have some hope yet.

What affects or symptoms might you expect to have with a broken fuel injector harness shield ground?