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Keith Browning

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Posts posted by Keith Browning

  1. Quote:
    I've seen plenty of hard start trucks up here that a set of injectors fixed, but they were usually hard start cold.


    Under warranty? Surely you jest! That claim will bounce so high the truck will probably start before it comes back down!!! You had better have a better reason than 2.5 seconds cranking time. We had a couple that received complete sets that even our Rep couldn't back us on.
  2. Thanx Bruno, that is what I have been looking for but for cryin out loud they shouldn't be so freakin hard to find! I should stuff the idea in the suggestion box over at the RTTP.

     

    As for my attempt to get one put together, my locking chuck doesn't lock very well, it's difficult to get on the valve stem on some trucks and impossible on others. Now that all trucks seem to have steel valve stems I have to use one of two extended chucks. Why am I having so much trouble with dual rear tires all of a sudden? Tell me I need three different air chucks to set tire pressures and I'm gonna flip!

  3. Quote:
    WATER IN THE FUEL TANK BEHIND REAR AXLE— TSB 07-24-4
    6.4L, 6.0L, AND 7.3L DIESEL ENGINE


    FORD: 1999-2008 F-350, F-450, F-550

    This article supersedes TSB 07-3-12 to update the
    vehicle model years.


    ISSUE
    Some 1999-2008 vehicles equipped with a 6.4L,
    6.0L, or 7.3L diesel engine and a 40-gallon (151.4L)
    fuel tank behind the rear axle, may exhibit water in
    the fuel tank. This is due to snow and ice
    accumulating around the mushroom vent cap,
    melting, and being pulled into the tank through the
    mushroom cap.


    ACTION
    Replace the mushroom cap with a vent line
    assembly kit. Procedure.

    I was wondering if this might also reduce the amount of dirt that gets into the aft-axle fuel tanks of trucks operating in dirty environments. The original vent sits in a recessed area on top if the tank where dirt accumulates and could be drawn in somehow. Any thoughts?
  4. I have learned of yet another new forum to t he already abundant collection of web sites and forums dedicated to automotive and trucks - pick you favorite venue. I have a list of most of them as evident on Diesel Mentor but I thought I would open a discussion where we could list them all, offer our comments, praise and respectful criticism. (not a bash-fest please) I don't think of any site as competition for the DTS as every site has something different to offer. As the DTS celebrates it's second anniversary this December I think we have placed ourselves in the ranks respectfully.

     

    For the record I am proud of the DTS community - all of you have maintained a friendly, professional atmosphere and proved we can have fun while doing it!

     

    /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

     

     

    1) BlueOvalForums.com

    2) Competition Diesel

    3) Cummins Forum

    4) Diesel Ram

    5) Diesel Place

    6) Diesel Truck Resource

    7) Ford Doctors Diesel Technician Society

    8) Ford Truck Space

    9) Full Size Chevy

    10) iATN

    11) Oil Burners

    12) Power Stroke Nation

    13) Super Duty Diesel

    14) The Diesel Garage

    15) TheDieselStop.com

    16) Tow Rig

    17) Truck Blog

    18) /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

  5. Thank you for letting me vent.....I do feel better!

    We do love to vent here but in this Forum, we do it with style! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

     

    One thing I am curious about is the original poster's problem. I have to admit that like many of us here that work on all or mostly trucks the TPMS is all new to me. What sets the limit imposed by the system? The control module or the sensors themselves? There are different vehicles using this system that have much lower tire pressure specs to IF you wanted to how would you change it? Now I realize the system exists for a reason and would never suggest lowering the lower pressure threshold for obvious safety and legal reasons - at this point I'm simply curious as to which component dictates this. Now, if these beachcombers in their 4X4 vans want to lower the tire pressure for beach travel I understand. The light on the dash is not that annoying and serves to remind the driver to re-inflate his tires afterward. I think this "dillema" could easily be spun into a positive selling point!

  6. Thats a much different view on that then my male, gear headed perspective would have looked at it as you suggested. However I don't see too many Buffies putting the can to the tire and filling it up either. For me however, I can see the ease of canned sealant but I prefer the confidence of a spare tire. Twice I got too close to a curb, once in a parking lot and another making a slow turn, both incidents resulted in a gash in the sidewall. No can will fix that. I drive an Explorer and Freestyle. If I had a Vette, then I certainly don't want a silly ol spare tire. At least for people like me a spare is available as an option.

     

    ...and where are my manners? Welcome to the DTS jimmy57 !

  7. Quote:

    Removal

    • Drain the engine coolant. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
      .
    • Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe.
      .
    • Cut the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose at an angle where shown.
      .
    • Remove the bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.
      .
    • Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing and the part of the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose that is still attached.
      .
    • Twist and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube.
      .
    • Rotate the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.
    .
    Installation
    .
    • Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
      .
    • Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
      .
    • Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.
      .
    • Lubricate the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port on the engine.
      .
    • Position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover and install the bolts.
      .
    • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
      Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler supply port housing and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.
      .
    • Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps.
      Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
      .
    • Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
  8. I always see the Roundtable and Tech Time broadcast reminders on FMC Dealer but I cant get away from the shop to go watch. I know some of the stuff is rebroadcast and some is recorded for online access on PTS but are the roundtable broadcasts saved too?

     

    /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif On Edit: Since I have the day off I just went a nd looked around at the broadcasts and this was on the FMC Dealer main page

     

    Quote:
    Please Note: CANCELLED - Diesel Technician Roundtable FORDSTAR Broadcast For Monday, November 26, 2007. Reschedule Date: TBD
  9. One thing to note, that tool combination will only allow you to loosen and final tighten the fastener. I had to work the bolt out and in my hand until the tool could be used. This is fine but this is where your dexterity and patience will be tested sometimes. Some practically fall apart and other for some reason fight you every bit of the way!

     

    Torque? HA! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif Thats not the kind of thing I will waste time agonizing over faster torque. Snug it up, its not going anywhere and you aren't going to distort anything except your Torx bit!

  10. I knew I took some but for some reason I only took pictures of the installation procedure. As you can see this is done with the turbo on the engine - you don't need to access anything other than the hot side CAC tube to perform this procedure but you will need the right combination of socket/universal and personal dexterity. Disassembly is pretty much the reverse order and quite self explanatory. I think I intended to post an article and now I will. For me, I found that installing the new hose on the adapter and installing them together worked better as I don't have to screw with getting the hose to slide forward. Its a new hose so it bends enough to allow this and of course, a healthy coating of silicone grease makes it easy.

     

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  11. Thats similar to my box 'cept I have a locker on the left. Interesting that you got a top chest... My Snap-On dealer must be giving away hummers with new boxes because he sold nine in my shop in the last year. ALL were the super wide roller cabs with hutches and stainless tops. That is what is supposedly popular these days.

  12. Ahhhhh! Beeeeeeer! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

     

    But today, two black Russians joined me at cocktail hour! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif I never turn them or Jose Cuervo away. He's a righteous dude!

  13. how do you do that job in 1 hour

    Get some Stop-Leak and pour it in the... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

     

    Didn't we have a topic on this? I know I have some pictures somewhere. Okay, I found it, the search works on this site... Read this topic ---> Orange EGR cooler hose by GregH with a GOOD instruction on how to do it. The first reply is likely the reason there is now a specific labor operation for a measly hour.

  14. The more interesting question is now many of you actually own or have access to the necessary torque wrench and or torque multiplier? I personally own a 600 lb/ft torque wrench but have never had the need for a torque multiplier. Maybe once... but That's not a tool I am buying to use once!

     

    We have a couple of 3' yoke clamps that either go around the yoke or bolt to it and rest against the frame or spring. I wonder if they would bend under that kind of force?

  15. Quote:
    the installer is the biggest issue to overcome with Vista.


    I am curious about that. The IDS installation checks the operating system before installation. Just for giggles I attempted to install IDS onto a Windows XP Home machine and a Windows 2000/NT machine but got the ol' boot from the install. Did IDS accept Windows Vista and what version?
  16. I suppose it all depends on how big the boom is and if the truck runs to run it. Is the ceiling on your shop high enough to raise the boom and bucket over the top of the lift? I had a service truck in with a 6.0L that had a crane on it but I was able to rotate it off to the side enough for the cab to clear. I suppose the bucket makes a big difference.

  17. A dealer must have a diesel certified technician to get most engine warranty claims paid. As for sales I think there are also requirements for medium duty sales. I know for a fact we cannot sell trucks with CAT engines if I was not CAT trained and certified... Ill ask around and get a straight answer.

     

    The only LCF specific training I have taken and was ever offered to date was the new model training. I do recall that dealers were not allowed to order and sell LCF's until that course was taken. I don't know if that still is in effect at this point. The NMT was a general course about the entire vehicle which was interesting but for me the highlight was the only MD Truck software training I have ever heard of or have taken.

  18. What? You don't get to perform the PDI's on the trucks in your store? There's no way I would let that happen! I will agree with you that now guys who do a piss-poor job on PDI's now have one little watchdog looking over their shoulder. I cant tell you how many trucks come in for their first service with tire pressures at 50 PSI all around. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif That pisses me off like you wouldn't believe.

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