BrunoWilimek

On 7/24/2018 at 8:04 PM, Keith Browning said:

I will admit that Transits are no E-series but in all due respect the E-series is no transit either.. Transits ride better and handle better. They come in an impressive number of configurations to suit pretty much any vocation. The mid level and high level roofs are a HUGE advance because being able to stand in a van like that is a big deal not to mention the increased cargo space. I still think they are fucking ugly... and the more I get to do on them I am like the rest of the Ford tech community am finding some major PIA operations and quirks.

I second that. 2 examples. 1: I had the pleasure of replacing the EGR cooler on one that another tech removed and then was off at school and customer needed it back ASAP. My arms are not long enough. and 2: called a 3.5 ecoboost one for a replacement of one injector with 158,000km on it. The intake bolts were so rotten that intake had be broken into pieces to remove it. One of the injectors seized in the head and most of it came out, but will need head removed to continue. Grr.

Just camped this past long weekend with my friend who has as his tow vehicle the above listed F350 dually. It's in great shape and he only uses it to tow his fifth wheel camper. It starts great cold and if re-started immediately when hot also. However, it has a long crank if left to hot soak for even a few minutes. When it starts, it runs rough for only a few seconds, then smooths out and runs well. Does anyone remember these old gems and have an idea what could be the issue? My memory is not the best for these 7.3's and we don't have the gauge set at our dealership to test the fuel system. Thanks in advance.

Sorry I did not get back sooner. Thanks for the replies. I just got back from camping with my friend and family and he asked again about a different turbo. The Banks is only listed up to 93, so I assume it's not meant to replace the 94 factory turbo. I will mention about rear end gears as it is a 2WD. Thanks again. 

Just got VC off. Several loose rocker arms, loose pushrods, low pushrods(1 inch gap to rocker arms), several pushrods almost off their valves. Calling it for a complete engine at this point.  

On 2/7/2018 at 5:59 PM, jw33 said:

Why only partial cab lift?

Service manager wanted to avoid having truck in 2 pieces as customer stated he was going to put a Cummins in it if it needed a motor. He changed his mind, now have cab fully lifted and new motor here, just waiting for install kit that is back ordered til the cows come home. I did pull the head and found the cause, though. The roller lifters flat spotted on the cam and when clearances got too great, lost contact with the pushrods/rocker arms.

Just got VC off. Several loose rocker arms, loose pushrods, low pushrods(1 inch gap to rocker arms), several rocker arms almost off their valves. Calling it for a complete engine at this point. Also found the rubber boot for the AFE air cleaner to engine duct was rotted at the flexible bellows, with a hole in it and gritty dirt inside next duct. This is the second AFE inlet boot that has had this issue. Don't know the root cause, but suspect the performance chip was at least partially at fault.

Thanks for the replies. When time permits(shop very busy this week)I am going to remove the VC. Have to do it with only a partial cab lift as per service manager.

Customer was driving when he heard a bang, then had no power. I did a relative compression test and found #2 cylinder was low. An actual compression test shows zero compression in cylinder #2 and popping heard through the air intake. Truck has been modified with a tuner, exhaust is straight pipe and has AFE air cleaner and ducting. EGR system is still in place. The glow plug came out OK and tip looks good. I drained the oil and fished through it with a magnet and found no metal. Truck has almost 300,000 km on it. I just replaced the low pressure fuel pump, secondary fuel filter and fuel pickup recently  and removed an aftermarket inline fuel pump/filter/separator from ahead of the factory pump. The low fuel pressure warning message had been coming on for a year before that, until one day the owner killed the batteries trying to start it. He has an aftermarket oversize fuel tank as well as a bed mounted tank. The reason for the aftermarket fuel pump/filter/separator was that he was using his own special blend of bio-diesel in it. Has anyone run into an intake rocker problem on the 6.7? I am thinking if I go further, that I want to lift the cab to ease access to the head. What are your thoughts on that?

I was told that if you took out the filter, depressed the valve at the bottom and air tested it and it gurgled out the filter housing that the pump was bad, so agree with that being likely cause.There was another way to test the pump by graphing pressure output that would show an irregular pattern that would mean the pump was bad, but don't remember the pids to view now.

Success  . Head gaskets were both leaking at centre two cylinders. Replaced them, water pump and front cover. Had to turn heat temperature down at idle. 

Fuel quality or failed fuel pump? Remove secondary fuel filter cap and see if it will refill reservoir. had one with similar issue and pump was faulty and it would only suck enough fuel to run, but not enough to run well.

That's what it was. The fitting closest to the driver's side was leaking. Not too bad a job when the upper intake is out of the way. Thanks Gents. I knew i could count on you.   

Well, truck came back-finally. Owner had a heart attack last February and didn't need the truck fixed until just recently when it got colder, and again, not heat at idle. This time, coolant was down slightly and there was a white coolant stain on the reservoir along with a bit of liquid coolant around the cap on the top of the reservoir. I also pulled the water pump, and although the impeller is tight on the shaft, there is the start of cavitation on the front cover behind the water pump. The head gaskets are definitely leaking as well. It has an egr delete kit on it also. Going to replace the front cover, head gaskets and the oil cooler. I will keep you posted on the results.  

Thanks, guys. Will check it out when it comes back next week.

Got 2 of these now. Leaking and running down left side of bellhousing adapter to drip at bottom of oil pan near drain plug. follow external stain up and can't see where it starts. Looks dry in valley and at rear of left head. Anyone found a source for this? It did not drip when rad was pressure tested, so must be a slow seep.

This is from the shop manual:        Overview

The 3.7L (4V) is a V-6 engine with the following features:

• Dual overhead camshafts
• Four valves per cylinder
• Sequential Multi-Port Fuel Injection (SFI)
• Composite upper and lower intake manifold
• Aluminum cylinder head
• An aluminum, 60-degree V-cylinder block
• Timing chain driven coolant pump
• Twin independent variable cam timing (Ti-VCT)
• An electronic ignition system with 6 ignition coils                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Apparently, you are dealing with a real dumbass. I wonder sometimes if they hire former insurance company representatives who are told to deny, deny, deny to save the company money.

Just to add a bit of info from another Ford tech: he says that the symptom for leaking head gaskets is more likely to be good heat at idle and no heat at higher revs. Any thoughts on that?

Got it fixed. Turns out the person who put the engine in used the 05 wiring harness, extended the 3 wire pigtail to the ICP sensor using 3 wires with different colours than the ends and crossed 2 of the wires, which resulted in a high ICP voltage signal and the inferred ICP reading. I also replaced the ICP sensor with an 05 unit and replaced the pigtail as it had lost the grey insert. Also found the 16 pin connector at the FICM to the injectors had been broken in half and spliced in a used connector saved from a previous harness replacement job. Starts and runs great now. The engine was put in a year ago and they have been trying to get it working better all this time.

Got one here with same issue. I replaced the heater core as another shop had flushed it and replaced the thermostat. No heat at idle. No sign of coolant venting and owner says it does not use coolant. Any other likely cause for this?

Thanks guys, am going to do that now. Just wanted to be sure it would work before I tore into it.

Got stuck somehow working on this chimera(definition:in Greek mythology-a fire-breathing female monster with a lion's head, a goat's body, and a serpent's tail.). The original 6.0 died of internal engine failure, so they had an 03 6.0 truck that burnt but had a good engine. The customer's concern was hard starting hot. It had a very long crank cold when I first got to it, then after ramping up slowly, it ran fine. Pulled codes, had hard faults P0670 GPCM circuit, P02289 ICP too high, engine off, and U0306 FICM programming incompatible with PCM. Also continuous codes same as above, as well as P0683 glow plug module to PCM comm fault and P2284 ICP circuit range/performance. Fixed the glow plug codes by pushing in the connector at the GPCM until it locked, re-flashed the FICM, PCM and TCM to get rid of the U0306. Seems to start better now, but still starts slower than normal, then ramps up to an idle, then after several seconds runs perfectly. The truck is using the 05 PCM as the 03 PCM was damaged in the fire(or so I have been told). As far as the ICP codes, am wondering if the 03 and 05 are even compatible? Watching PIDS when it starts, the ICP looks like a digital signal, as if the PCM is substituting a value instead of ramping up like an analog signal. When the engine is shut off, then immediately turned back to run, but engine not started, ICP stays high, around 4000psi. Then after a time, it drops down to zero. ICP volts stays around 5 volts during all this. I feel the best option is to get an 03 PCM to go with the 03 engine and go from there. I would dig into the ICP, but since it is the one at the back, have been able to talk myself out of that.  Any thoughts on this mess?

That's a lot of draining and filling though. I personally think more frequent fluid change intervals of all its half litres would probably go a long way.

Now that it has a drain plug, I am going to change it at least once a year. Couldn't do it before now.

I will take pictures the next time i get it on a hoist. Thought of that after it was too late.

Probably a silly question as these are very rare, but a very good friend of mine bought a dually super cab to tow his fifth wheel trailer. He asked me if there was any way to get more power out of it. Since it has no PCM for the engine and was only made for part of a year, I could only think of putting an aftermarket exhaust or air intake on it. He has already done the exhaust. Does anyone know if there are any hop-up parts even available for this engine? If so, can the rest of the powertrain handle an increase? I told him that he should go a bit newer and find a power stroke 7.3, but he doesn't want to spend the money to do that. Oh, well, I tried.

Well, I followed your tips and drilled a drain hole, after inspecting the insides of the unit I replaced in the customer's Flex. After you remove the heat shield over the exhaust pipe, there is a flat area at the bottom of the unit that is accessible to drill and is between the gearset, so will not hit any internal components when drilling. I had a 1/8 NPT tap, so carefully drilled a hole when the fluid was warm, then tapped hole, allowing black fluid to drain and flush out chips. Then used a funnel with a length of hose over the top of the engine, wire-tied away from the catalytic converter and into the PTU. I added the appropriate amount of Mercon V and drove slowly and carefully around the dealership and area for several minutes to circulate the fluid. I drained that and repeated twice more, until the fluid started to look more reddish than black, then drained it again and added 75W140 and repeated the drive cycle, then drained and filled a second time with the gear oil. No more smell. Thanks again for your ideas.