DamageINC

I'm not gonna argue you about the sheer simplicity of a big-inch V8 with a pair of 4 barrels and a solid-roller .750" lift cam with a 108 degree centerline, you can practically hear each cylinder firing and count the RPMS in your head. That's probably my favorite thing about the drag strip still, that sound is irreplaceable :)Not talking shit, by any means. But my buddy's '93 Camaro has a measly 342 cubic inches of LS1 under his hood and makes around 1100 HP with it Granted, he needs 116 octane fuel and a bottle of nitrous to get there (along with a little boost) but at the end of the day it goes mid 8's at almost 170mph. And that's enough to make anyone shit themselves. (Especially considering the car doesn't even have a cage :shock: )

I'm with Keith, that whistling noise could very well be the sound of the cap venting.. that's the next hing I'd try to verify. And, of course, visual inspection of the oil filter standpipe as well. I know I've mentioned it before but I had an E-van ambulance with a failed fan clutch once that caused EXTREME overheating (and ultimately, head gasket failure and replacement of the long block due to metal transfer from the piston-to-wall, warped heads, and damage to the EGR/OIL coolers as well as 'potential' injector damage)... I drove the van into the shop and pulled the cap, watched the coolant boil out of the bottle for a good 10 minutes (not safe, by the way). After a solid 10 minutes of this, the coolant stopped burbling out of the bottle and I managed to shoot the coolant with an infrared thermometer and almost fell over when I got consistent readings of over 370 degrees F. God knows how hot it was 10 minutes before that. Somehow, that oil filter standpipe was still in perfect shape, so if one of those things melts then the temperature has to be outrageous. Dave

[quote name=Aaron This was back when radial tires weren't even a thought' date=' and a 10" tire was a 10" tire...not a 10.5W (which measures out at almost 14" wide depending on rim width) I think I was born in the wrong era. [/quote] Yeah, but on the bright side, there are guys running the 10.5W tires running mid-6's in the 1/4 mile at well over 220mph now. Talk about absurd. And there are LEGIT 10.5 tire cars going 6's as well. Damn, it's been a while since I was at a good Outlaw race.. And Jim - the "horsepower years" are far from gone - just look at the LS7 Corvettes now (the C6 Z06), it's a 427 cube V8 with over 11:1 compression if I remember correctly, makes well over 500hp and still gets close to 30 mpg on the highway. And this isn't late 60's/early 70's power rating either, a new Z06 will run low 11's right off of the showroom floor with someone who knows how to drive behind the wheel. 10's are possible with nothing more than a tire change. Compare that to the absolute fastest muscle cars of the era which would struggle to run a 12-anything on a good day, and knocn down a solid 7-8 mpg in the process. As far as I'm concerned, the muscle car age has never been better. Only difference is that I wish we had more cars to pick from... It's getting there though. Mercedes has 600HP twin turbo V-12 rocketsleds and VERY fast supercharged v-8 4-doors left and right, BMW offers a 500HP 5-liter V-10 4-door M5, You can even get a fucking TAURUS now with 365hp... not to mention the new Mustang GT will have over 400hp stock, SRT Hemi cars, LS-X GM offerings... maybe it's not so bad after all.. Dave

That's a good question.. but then again, our "12 volt" systems see a good 20% more than their intended 12-volts under normal operation as the alternator is usually keeping the system at well over 14 volts while running. So I guess time will tell, hehe.. Dave

I was just gonna say what Cetant said, lol, there's nothing "backwards" about a single turbo setup, especially if you know what your airflow requirements are and overall performance expectations will be.

Yeah, elevation has a drastic effect on this reading. Out by me in the Chicago area, we usually see about 400psi on the button. Dave

I had a repeat P0088 or P0087 once on a truck that had a shorted pump harness.. replaced the harness the 1st time, vehicle left and came back about a week later with the same codes again. Found an "open" ckt for the PCV circuit at the connector for the new harness, if I remember correctly. Off with the body and did the job again to find that the connector had come unclipped from the pump. There was a batch of bad harnesses, I guess.. the problem is that the locking tang/clip that actually locks the connector in place would get hot, and WARP, bend itself into a position that prevented it from securing the connector to the pump and squeeze itself in and out causing the concern. I also recall hearing about people not realizing that the silicone packing/seal on the connector would sometimes stick inside the pump when unplugging the old harness, and then the NEW harness would get plugged in on top of the old packing and it created too much tension and either broke the tabs off of the harness connector or just never properly locked in the 1st place and came loose over time. Or, it could be a faulty pump at itself, hehe... eithe rway, it looks like you might be doing the job again, which sucks. At least it's likely that it wasn't something you missed or overlooked. Dave

I will say that I've never seen an E-series 6.0 wipe out the head gaskets UNLESS it was a result of something more severe, like extreme overheating or a failed oil cooler or something similar. (Or someone with a tuner of course) If indeed the head gaskets are bad, I'd bet that there was a catalyst for the failure as opposed to just a regular old 6.0 TRUCK head gasket failure. On that note - if you're going have the engine out and the heads off, I think it's almost absurd to not at least OFFER head studs to the customer and let them decide what they want to do Dave

But Family Guy is funnier. (new arguement in 3...2...1...) Dave

I've said it before, I'll say it again. Kill the Federal Reserve Bank. Kill the Federal Income Tax. Let the people keep their tax dollars (because not a single red cent of the US income tax is spent on anything gov't related - it all goes drectly towards the INTEREST owed to the FED. You can reearch this all day long if you'd like.) and buy their own insurance. They'll still save THOUSANDS of dollars each year. I know I sure could use the extra 14-15 grand that I shove into the pockets of some private banker every year. And extra $1,100 a month would do me an awful lot of good. And you can bet your ass I'd have great insurance too. Want to get the economy back on track? Kill the IRS & The FED. Dave EDIT: I believe a large reason that insurance costs are through the roof is because the government has ALLOWED it to get out of hand by taxing the working US Citizen to pay for employers to provide insurance for their employees. It seems kind of redundant. The problem is that, when people have insurance - they don't care about the cost of anything anymore. Doctor - "Broken Arm? That's $15,000." Patient - "Oh ok - my insurance will cover it". It's easy to raise prices because insurance instills an amount of apathy towards pricing. If people had to pay for their own healthcare, without insurance, prices would be forced to drop dramatically because healthcare would become a free-market business. There would be need for competition. Taking care of humans is INCREDIBLY overpriced right now, ask anyone who actually works in the field and they'll blow your mind at how much it actually costs to perform a procedure versus what they charge. The markup is often in the 5-figure percentage range.

Maybe?? Haha, I rememeber one time I(think it was after I) had done head gaskets on a truck an replaced the EGR and Oil coolers, and the IPR as well because the screen had blown through, and shortly thereafter the HPOP took a shit. Like, the same day if I remember correctly. The new IPR had a shreeded screen afterward and I think it was determined (but I don't recall how) that the new oil cooler had some casting flash floating around in in it and it made a special delivery to the doorstep of Mr. HPOP. Dave

Yes, that's the modern "translation" for transmissions nowadays.. with the number in the middle signifying the torque rating if you put another "zero" at the end of it. Each company has their own designations for certain things (4R100 = 4 speed, "R"ear wheel drive, 1,000 lbs/ft), or a 4L80E is 4 speed, Longitudally mounted, 800 lbs/ft, "E"lectronic shift.. So the 6R140 would be "6 Speed, Rear drive, 1400 lbs/ft" I don't know that a torque converter always multiplies by 2x, however.. ? Dave

WOW. These are some very, VERY aggressive power and torque figures. I hope to God that the new 6R140 can withstand all of that punishment from a daily-driven dragster aspect, because you know people are gonna spend a good deal of time with their right foot to the floor, lol.. Way to go though, really.. for Ford to come out with a publicly in-house designed engine and smash the competition from a preliminary performance outlook, this is only going to help bolster things even further for the blue oval I think. Not only is the 735 TQ rating a huge number from a light-duty (or even medium duty) truck, but the fact that it comes in at only 1600 RPM is enough to make even the most staunch 7.3 junkie out there get a little excited in his pants. Very excited to see the reviews on this thing in another 6 months. Dave

Big time, I am so nervous about random kibble geting into that reservoir, lol. Brake Cleaner and a blowgun works wonders for cleaning that are BEFORE removing the oil cooler (and HPOP cover for that matter). Dave

That is an attitude that I can completely respect however. And had my employer said that it was an "unacceptable procedure" then I'd absolutely be going another route with the process. In some instances where the customer is very inquisitive and anal, I have actually asked them personally for permission to make small incisions beneath their floormats and so far all of them have said something along the lines as "Do what you need to, as long as it's not something that I won't obviously notice while I'm cleaning the truck"... obviously I'd never do anything AGAINST the customers consent so in that light, I had a "good to go" card with a few customers in particular. I guess this practice kinda goes into that same bin as the techs who grind the heat-shield ear off of the HPOP covers for ease of reinstallation and just bolt the shield back up with 2 of the 3 original bolts, lol. Regardless - if I ever end up working underneath you Keith, rest assured your customers carpets will remain slice-free, hehe. Dave

Maybe these guys aren't being too surgical with their cuts, lol.. I worked at a dealership in an EXTREMELY rich area with quite possibly the most anal customers I'll ever deal with, and not once have I ever encountered any issues resulting from the carpet slits. This includes a customer who knew that the cab was removed, and brought the truck back 3 days later because he took measurements of the truck and found that the rearmost portion of the cab was 1/4" further to the drivers side than the passenger side.. which I gladly adjusted for him, of course. I won't use anything other than a small razor blade, I know some people will use a pocket knife or something similar but a razor blade makes such a thin slice... I can see how it'd be a problem if someone made a 3 or 4 inch gash because that would definitely be hard to cover up, but I usually make the slit just big enough to poke the extention through and so far I've had no complaints whatsoever.. hopefully it stays that way, lol. Dave

This may sound "hackish" but I'll readily admit that when I'm doing a cab removal, I'll take a razor blade and make an inch-long slice in the carpet beneath the rear floormats for access to the center cab bolts. I'll put a socket on the bolt from underneath the carpet, and poke a short extention through the slit in the carpet, into the socket, and spin them out with an impact. When the job is done, just clean the carpet up and ruffle the carpet fiber back and forth for a second - even if you KNOW EXACTLY where the cut was located, it's still absolutely 100% impercetpable without sticking your face up to the carpet and trying to open up the cut manually. And 9 times out of 10, there will be a floormat on top of the area anyhow. Even vacuuming the carpet won't reveal the cut, I've tried Dave

Honestly - if you don't want to use the manual, just use youe head. If you're careful and patient, it will take you some time to do it but you'll learn absolutely everything you need to in order to ge the job done and it will be twice as fast the next time. Just remember to go slowly and pay close attention to anyting that looks like it may bind up as the body as being lifted. As for the cab bolts, I have had good luck with heating the bolt up until the hex-head is glowing, Then, just let it sit for a moment and the heat will transfer through the bolt, melt the loctite, and you can usually unthread them with ease. Dave

The other guys are right though, the FRP sensor is a vacuum-referenced sensor and NOT an atmospheric pressure-referenced sensor, so the FRP pid WILL change if the vacuum line is removed from it. Dave

I can't even begin to explain how nervous I'd be to try the tripod-stand method of cab removal. That just seems frightening.. Dave

Well guys, it's fixed. My trailer harness came in today and the problem is gone. This is the part that comes out of the back of the truck and plugs INTO your trailer harness for your trailer. After dismantling the rubber casing for the old plug, I found that there's actually a small circuit board inside there and it had overheated, burning the board and creating a small cross-short from the taillamp circuit into the left side brake/turn signal circuit. This cross short eventually cause the flasher relay to fail, which is why there were 2 separate issues with the same system. This trailer harness setup appears to be uniform across the U-haul line, so if any of you run into any similar issues with a U-Haul, I'd suggest disconnecting the 2 connectors that plug into the foot-long trailer harness adapter and see if that doesn't clear up (or at least change) the concern! Dave

I was just going to ask if the GEAR pid has been monitored while driving too, just to make sure this thing's not taking off in 3rd. Could be as simple as Maladjusted shift linkage, haha.. Dave

Haha sorry I forgot to get back to everyone on this one! This truck has the usual F-series Solid-State flasher relay, that has a tendency to go bad and cause all sorts of funky issues. After scratching my head and inspecting most all of the aftermarket wiring, finding nothing visually wrong, I went ahead and ordered up a relay. Fixed PART of the problem.. the turn signals both operate at normal speeds, now. However, the unwanted 12V at pin 4 still exists with the trailer harness adapter attached to the rear harness, which means that the brake lights are ON when the headlamps/parking lamps are on too. Everything is fine with the harness unplugged, so I've ordered up a new harness as well. I think that maybe the failed trailer harness aapter somehow caused the flasher relay to freak out and ended up creating another problem as a result. But there are definitely two separate issues with the same system on this one, hahaha. Gotta love it. Dave

Yes, it does have the LED style lights. The factory wiring SOMEWHERE taps into a new harness (I'm looking for where, still) that sends your brake/turn sig/park lamp signal to a little control box that then sends a new signal to the tail lamps. The LED lights were "wired" like a standard 3157 bulb, with one ground wire (going straight to the body), one power wire for the tail lamp circuit, and one wire for the brake/turn sig circuit. Both the tail lamp and brake/turn sig circuits are 12v circuits, but applying 12V to only the "brake" ckt will still make the whole light illuminate bright, as opposed to needing BOTH filaments in a 3157 bulb to be illuminated for that "extra bright" effect. Dave

OH! And also, when I unplug the trailer harness adapters at the rear of the vehicle, the 12 volt feed to pin 4 of the BOO switch goes away. HOWEVER, when using the turn signals, they flash fast in BOTH directions, even though all of the lamps work normally. So it's like once I remove the trailer harness adapter, the system works just fine with the exception that they flash too fast. But the tail lamps come on fine with the headlamps on, and the brake lamps illuminate properly with the brake applied/turn signals applied regardless of headlamp switch position. Cool, huh? Dave