DamageINC

Anyone ever have an Engine Harness go bad on one of these things that caused a cool little 4th of July party underhood? I got an '05 here in the shop with intermittent Cylinder 8 High codes and a PO606, stock tune, and intermittent Cam/Crank codes. Initially it would just start & die according to the customer, but once the truck got to me it started up and ran fine. I hopped up under the hood and started shifting the wiring harness around in various places, and nearly fell off the truck when I pried up on the harness near the FICM. That little metal tab that holds the harness to one of the intake bolts with the stud on top - yeah, that thing started arcing and sparking like crazy. And yes, the engine started running like garbage while I was doing it, even got it to shut off. Obviously the harness is toast, so the Engine Harness and Injector harness are getting replaced. What are the odds that the FICM itself took a shot from all of this electrical debauchery? The customer is really going to get clobbered with the harness replacements as it is, and a new FICM might be a huge problem for them financially. Just looking for the opinions of everyone here

Sorry for the late update, it took a while for the parts to show up, lol. But, indeed, the new timing cover/LPOP fixed it

Lol, I've got about 2 and a half years working in the indie world and yeah, it's a whole different animal.

Haha, yeah that was the first thing I checked actually. Oil level is spot on

Well, I got around to screwing with this thing some more today, went ahead and peeled the HPOP cover off and sure enough, there was a mark on the rear cover from a little make-out session with the old STC fitting. I can only assume that it was part of the fitting that I found in the regulator As for the timing cover, I pulled that off and gave the regulator bore a good thorough inspection. Although I couldn't see anything wrong, sliding the old regulator piston in & out, it would noticeably bind up pretty heavily every now and then unless it was DEAD straight. I have no clue why there was no pressure when I removed it originally, maybe it was just one of those "bad timing" things, but I'm pretty sure that the regulator was stuck cock-eyed in the bore and just dumping the oil right back into the pan. We have a new Timing cover/LPOP on the way for tomorrow morning, and hopefully this thing will be running by noon. I'll keep you cats posted with the results, thanks so far for the input though - this place has been a lifesaver

Ok, here's a fun one. One of those "the customers story doesn't add up with what I found" ones, hehehe. Our shop owner is friends with another shop owner who does lots of heavy duty diesel work, but usually ships his 6.0 stuff to us because I work here and have lots of dealer experience with them. Soooo, basically he drops a truck off, 06 model F-250 6.0, tells me that he put a HPOP in it for low cranking ICP and that it ran fine for a few hours and then shut off on it's own. Cranking ICP went to 0psi, totally dead. He replaced the IPR and ICP sensor and still had 0psi cranking, so he towed it to our shop. I get in, verify no ICP cranking. Also notice that the oil pressure gauge on the dash will not move. I go and take out the oil filter - the thing is BONE DRY. Has never seen a drop of oil. This filter was installed AFTER the vehicle died out and wouldn't start, apparently. But he told me that he has no clue how old the filter is. Regardless, the drainback valve isn't stuck open, and if I manually depress the standpipe and crank it, the filter housing still won't get any oil. So I decide to yank the regulator. It didn't seem seized at all, but there was a decent sized chunk of aluminum (maybe half the size of a valve core) resting on top of the regulator piston. So, off comes the LPOP. Small, VERY shallow scoring marks on the LPOP cover plate, including a tiny little gouge about the size of a grain of sand. But no real obvious marks or indentations on the Gerotor assembly itself, or in the timing cover where the LPOP atually sits. NOW, it turns out that the vehicle was also in for an oil leak on top of the engine, which was determined to be coming from the oil filter housing, I guess one of the mechanics at the other shop had the oil/fuel filter housing off of the oil cooler assembly and replaced the gasket there. SOOOOOO, my questions - what could the other shop have messed up while servicing the oil filter housing (which explains the new filter) that would prevent the oil filter housing from getting any oil flow? AND, where else could the aluminum on the LPOP regulator have come from if there are no signs of real damage to the timing cover? I can't imagine that the oil cooler itself is coming apart and leaving bits of aluminum in the oil.. I thought maybe one of the fuel injectors could have broken apart, but again, this looks like it was a piece of cast aluminum. I'm debating whether to yank the timing cover completely off or take apart the oil cooler, but I'm not sure I'd know if I'd recognize a problem there even if it was staring me in the face. The coffee table book gave a decent rundown on the oil flow through the oil cooler/filter housing, but it doesn't make sense to me why the filter housing won't fill up still. I need to be edjumikated!

Yeah, but I mentioned I popped the EGR valve out and didn't see anything even remotely looking like an EGR cooler failure. Intake was bone dry. I did have an oil cooler create a venting concern once but it was under load only... anyone think this is possible at idle too?

Well, it also had wiring issues when it first came in that caused a no-crank too. Once I got it to crank, it did hydrolock for a second but cranked through it, lol. This thing, once hot, would even vent coolant out of the bottle AT IDLE. We told the customer that we'd need to rip the heads off (and probably replace them) just to get started, with the potential for more damage to be found during teardown. Given that this thing has likely overheated before, I checked the oil filter standpipe but it was in good shape. I'm not at a dealer anymore, so unfortunately I have limited access to testing equipment and Power Balance/Relative Compression isn't available to me right now. We do have access to an IDS but we don't have it in our shop at the moment. But they do appear to be the stock MLS gaskets.

Well, I just checked another cylinder for compression and got 400 again. We finally had some aerosol cans show up so I gave the intake a whiff of starting fluid and it fired right up and is currently running right now. I haven't shut it off since. (I can say that after 10 minutes of idling, I pulled the cap off the degas bottle and it sounded like I ripped the valve stem out of a tire, lol) I also thought maybe the glow plugs/GPCM, but there were no codes for that at all and I haven't really had any glow plug problems with 6.0's in the past (not to say that it can't happen, of course) so I am a little less likely to lean in that direction as of now. Question - can head gaskets fail to the point where they create this condition? Say, if there was enough coolant in the cylinders (even under cranking) that it created an environment that wasn't conducive to diesel combustion while cranking? (But once started, cylinder temperatures reach a level that work out.) EDIT: Brake torquing, this thing reaches about 8psi of boost and starts SPRAYING coolant out of the bottle. This is with ECT at only about 140*F right now too.

What's up fellas? Got me a winner here, I'm hoping to get some input back from the crew here 2004 F-250, 6.0. Thing got towed in, was just purchased at an auction. Apparently it drove through the auction and hasn't started ever since. This thing has has had a tuner, propane injection, full exhaust, yadda-yadda.. lots of go-fast goodies and NO signs of any "preventative" mods, so it still has the stock EGR cooler, stock head bolts & gaskets... Crank no start. TONS of smoke while cranking, (No joke, 30 seconds of cranking and it looked like Bob Marley's basement in the shop) the smoke smells like raw fuel. Every now and then I'll get a sputter from a few cylinders that actually fire (followed by a nice smoke-ring out the exhaust) for a second but it simply won't start. Cranking RPM at around 180-200, checked compression in only one cylinder but it was over 400psi. Has SYNC, FICMSYNC, good ICP (voltage and pressure), FICM voltages are all good (11.5-ish for the L and V and 48 for the M) Good fuel, new fuel filters, and a laundry list of codes from the programming. For what it's worth, there's an audible tick from the engine while cranking but I haven't determined the source yet. I'm also pretty sure the head gaskets are wiped out on this thing - everything under the hood is dirty EXCEPT for the coolant bottle, which has a new cap, and is awkwardly nice and freshly cleaned, as well as improperly installed. It looks like someone pulled the bottle and cleaned it up, replaced the cap, and shoved it back under the hood. No coolant in the bottle. Removed the EGR valve - not stuck open, very little carbon, not wet at all. Inside of intake is also dry. Any thoughts??

IATN is a blessing and a curse all at once, lol. I have never contributed to any posts there but I do use it pretty frequently now that I fix all makes & models.

I should have been in sales.

I always got a lot of shit from the guys because I *always* did 7.3 pans an a long process of yanking the engine and mounting it on a stand, flipping it upside-down, changing the pan, and then letting it sit and cure (upside-down) overnight. It may not have been the fastest method but I never once worried about it leaking after I was done. Dave

Some of us. I, for one, still tend to vent my A/C gauges into the hindquarters region of the nearest technician leaning over a fender.

I suppose it's always a good thing to have in your back pocket i fyou get into an arguement with the neighbors. 800 lbs/ft and you could simply relocate their house while they're out.