BLittle500

Hey guys, My wife called today in a panic, her 02 Explorer seems to have a trans issue, and I'm not the man for the job. The O/D light is flickering (no way its a flash code, way way to fast) and I pulled a P0796 out of it with my code reader. Any ideas, known concerns, things to look for? 2002 Explorer 4.0, 4X4 Thanks in advance, Brandon

Thats what I thought, Thanks Keith. I havnt had the pleasure of doing one yet, guess the guy was way over time that did this one. Thanks for the input, Brandon

Seems like you guys do alot of stuff with labor ops, I dont have to deal with them usually but a service writer is asking me about what to flag on a 6.7 water pump that was done while I was on vacation :-) All I could really find was the 2.4 for R&R pump, and .4 for pressure testing cooling system. Sound right? Thanks in advance guys, Brandon

Just had to do this on mine, the blend door was broke, got one from Dorman, had a little metal sleeve around where the old one had broke looks like it will prevent further issues. Pulling the dash was not that bad at all.

The heads were cracked at the injector cups, which would have normally put fuel into the coolant. I guess whomever was selling the truck put the stop leak in it to run it through auction. The stuff was all over one of the injectors when I pulled it out for replacement.

Had the one towing company that comes into work buy a used 05-06 F550 roll back, had us check it out. The coolant had some pink "milkyness" to it, we warned them of the danger. Eventually the root cause showed its ugly head when the truck ended up needing injectors, one injector had the milky shit all over it where the injector sits in the cup. They said fix it right, and she got a set of heads. Ohhhh patch work, how great you are!

I had a metal "screeching" sound only at certain RPM, was a broken flex pipe on the left up pipe. It was a VERY loud noise too, maybe what your describing?

I know I couldnt use my symmetrical 15K LBS lift to do regular cabs, had to use one of the a-symmetrical car lifts to do them

Finally? You lucky, lucky bastard hahaha.

Keith, I have one that I use on my race car, and I was blown away by it. The first time I used it and watched the video on my TV I was like "wow, thats some good video" but knowing the limits of my TV I figured on a new bad ass TV the video would be "normal". So I went up to my old man's and watched it on his bad ass HD/3D/STD/LED/123 blah blah blah huge TV and the footage was absolutely remarkable. I'd honestly say the videos they use on their TV commercials are shot for sure with GoPro's, not tricks there. Recommend 100%

Reading back over my message, I forgot to mention that the No Start Hot was resolved with the new IPR valve, but now the P1211 and the loss of power after the MIL light on cropped up. Thanks again! Brandon

I searched my code on the forum and came up with a few posts about the code but seems to be multiple symptoms, none of which are mine 95 F250 7.3 Powerstroke, 200K miles on it. Got a work order today and per usual, tons of info. It said, and I quote, "Wont Start". So I go out, hit the key, she fires right up. Take it for a rip, truck runs great, nice and smooth, nice power (for an older 7.3). Pull it in the shop, shut er down, let it sit for a bit, and it's a no start hot. Go through and diag a faulty IPR valve. Swap valves out, go on my road test, and hit a snag. When I laid into the truck the MIL kicked on and it lost power. Pulled over and restarted the truck, it ran fine until I laid into it again. Same deal, very repeatable. Came in, pulled a P1211 out. Checking the truck out with the NGS on another road test, at WOT, IPR is 54% with ICP between 700-800PSI. Hot Idle this thing is hanging around 20-21% IPR, which I think is way out of line, correct? When I drove this truck to get it hot for it to produce the no start, it ran real good, think I'm just looking at a junk IPR valve here? 2 "old" trucks in a row, I'm loosin my mind! Thanks guys, Brandon

Thanks for the info guys, I was really rushing to get this thing done, and from reading the replys on here a little more info on my part would have done wonders. Truck gets towed in from another shop, under the hood I see new fuel lines, new engine harness, new glow plugs, and what appears to be a new pump. They brought it in saying the truck runs for a bit and shuts off, which for the most part is what it did. Looking at the wiring diagram (93 wiring book on the PTS, alright!) and noticing the generic ass dinosaur connectors on the pump, I tried switching the two on the pump (as I come to find out Bruce has suggested), and voila! I take it that on the driver side of the pump, the rear connector is the Cold engine timing kicker, and the front one is the fuel shut off, along with the idle kicker on the passenger side front of the pump. Well, she's out of my bay, back to my cozy 6.0's and 6.4's :-) Thanks again guys, Brandon

Hey guys, Got a 93 IDI dinosaur in, truck shuts off when gets up to temp. I have it nailed down to the fact that as long as I have the temp switch jumped it will run forever, and run good. This is replicating a cold engine keeping the idle solenoid kicked up as well as the timing. I held the throttle in the same position the idle solenoid was keeping it and pulled my jumper and the truck shut right off. Any time that the harness is not jumped there powering up the cold engine stuff it shuts right off. Any ideas? I'm really lost on this thing, I thought 7.3 powerstrokes were scary.....someone give me a 6.4 to work on! Hahah. Thanks for any info guys, Brandon

Had a 6.0 in just doing some normal maintenance, went to put the oil drain plug back in and heard it hit something. Looked up at an angle with a light and saw what looked to be a piece of hex stock, almost like an oil pump driver out of a 302. So with some crafty pick work and a little luck, I pulled out the piece. It was a long Torx bit cut down, I use a similar setup for injector hold downs. Must have fell out of whomever's socket, and now I got two of em!