Alex Bruene

I don't really know how to react to these changes.  First off, I don't work on cars, so I don't do any latch recalls.  Secondly, at my dealership, most of the tedious recalls are done by apprentices, and flat rate techs only get to do them if we have no other work and want to tackle them, which is very rare as to how insanely busy we are...  That way, we can have the seasoned techs doing actual repairs and diagnosis.  And, third, my dealer takes care of us.  Nobody here will lose money on a job unless they blatantly fuck something up.  But, if these changes and procedures start to majorly effect SLTS in a negative way, then perhaps I'd be a bit more upset about it.   

I picked up the donor truck from the bodyshop yesterday, which now has the suspect tires on it.  It now behaves the same way, perhaps not as bad, but this is a bucket truck, and is substantially heavier than the dump truck the tires came from.

Have you done a return port leak test?

I've used Hercules and Sailun tires for at least the last 10 years, and have never had an issue like this.  I always give people the option of Michelin and Hercules and let them decide.  Mind you, the Hercules drive tire that is my go to is a different model that the one used on the truck I was dealing with. 

I swapped out the brand new Hercs with 50% worn XDS'.  It's 1000 times better.  I also ended up replacing the pissing rear hub seals at the same time, but I didn't check the wheel bearing torque first.  We're going to leave the Hercs on the truck I swapped with to see how it handles... 

Yeah, so...  I knew I was forgetting to do something.  Reporting on this is what it turned out to be...  So, I didn't notice anything like you are talking about.  The hub spun freely when all was said and done.  On a side note, at 2.3 hours, I think I have a new favorite job!

No.  They're all Gs.  Lug in the back, rib in the front.  The same fleet has another truck with 19.5s here for some body work...  I'm going to swap rear tires, and check to make sure the rear wheel bearings are adjusted properly, as I just noticed yesterday that the shop that looked at it before we did replaced the rotors.

I am leaning towards the tires being the issue, as it has some pretty recent Hercules on it.  I've used Hercules quite often in the past with no issues, but they are cheap tires.

I'm doing a set tomorrow...  I'll let you know how it feels.

Maybe some of you guys can help me out with this one...  I have a 2012 F-550 2WD single cab dump truck.  While driving in a straight line, it is perfectly fine, but once you move the steering wheel, it feels as if the rear of the vehicle is not following the front.  I've made sure the trackbar is correctly torqued, I've made sure the rear u-bolts are tight, and that the locating pins are in place.  I've had the alignment checked, which is fine other than the camber being slightly positive, but within range.  I've followed it down the road, and it doesn't appear to be dog tracking.  It doesn't matter if you're turning left or right, the feeling of the rear end coming around is the same.  The fleet manager is telling me it's never been in an accident.  I'm assuming there are no frame issues, thinking the alignment figures would eliminate that.  Any ideas? 

 PSM 2017-139N...

PSM 2017-139N_EN.pdf

I know this is a fairly old topic, but I just finished replacing a couple female pins on a Connect...  The part number was 9s4z-14s411-aa.  I don't know if it's the same as the one you're looking for.

I've seen my fair share of cylinder wall cavitation on 7.3's, but they normally cause coolant in the oil, not the other way around.  I suppose it is possible under the right conditions...

Looks like they put a lot of work in to that engine...  Am I the only one that noticed the WIX filter?

I usually find that it is caused by the tracbar ball joint and/or bushing.

Have you checked the crankcase pressure?

I don't understand how on earth the big red triangle is still in the car repair business.  We have one around the corner, and constantly get people coming in for second opinions to their estimates.  Just last week, a 2007 Focus came in with an estimate to replace a thermostat housing, both radiator hoses and the radiator for a coolant leak.  We replaced a hose clamp to fix it.  Everything they look at needs CPR (calipers, pads and rotors).  I know they are completely dead, so I'm sure the guys are just bending everybody over to make a paycheque.  I'm sure they get bonused on the parts they sell...  If you call their shitty house brand stuff "parts"...

He doesn't want a brand new vehicle that has had major surgery.  The only we he'd take it was if we knocked $20K off the price.  FWIW, we finally got a repair procedure in Canada late last week.  Now, the wait for parts is on.

It saved our day...  Somebody (not me) here did something without an RVC on Monday and we were able to blame it on the outage...

FWIW, PTS mobile has been working with no issues. 

As soon as the customer found out the engine has to be removed, he pulled the plug on the deal.

Walmart? www.simplegreen.com

Thanks. 

As Canadians are second class citizens in the Ford world, I was wondering if somebody might know what the procedure is to be on a failed 16U32.  The only reason I ask is because we have a $103,000 Platinum F-350 sitting on the lot with a deal about to fall through if we can't give the customer an answer as to what needs to be done.  I'm under the impression that the US already has a repair procedure that has not filtered it's way up to us yet. 

Simple green.