Steve Mutter

I am I seeing both seals at the top ?

Sounds like that converter has failed, did you follow this test.

 

Stall Speed Test

NOTICE: Carry out the Line Pressure Test prior to the Stall Speed Test. If line pressure is low, do not carry out the stall test or additional transmission damage will occur. Do not maintain Wide Open Throttle (WOT) in any gear range for more than 5 seconds.

NOTE: After testing each of the ranges, move the selector lever into the NEUTRAL position and run the engine at 1,000 rpm for about 15 seconds to allow the torque converter to cool off before continuing onto the next range.

NOTE: If the engine speed exceeds maximum specified rpm, release the accelerator pedal immediately.

NOTE: Only perform the stall speed test with the engine and transmission at normal operating temperatures.

The Stall Speed Test checks the operation of the following items:

• Torque converter reactor One-Way Clutch (OWC)
• Forward clutch
• Low OWC
• Overdrive OWC
• Engine driveability concerns

1. Connect a scan tool.

2. Press the accelerator pedal to WOT in each range. Record the rpm reached in each range. Stall speeds should be in the appropriate range.

  Stall Speed

 

Engine Drive Reverse Diesel 1,600-1,750 rpm 1,800-2,000 rpm Gas 2,100-2,300 rpm 1,900-2,200 rpm

 

 

Cool thanks for the tip.

As per the pc/ed some codes will also hang around for 400 days ! P22a2 is the one I had on a 2016 f-550, ssm 45920 talk about it.

I have a 2009 6.4 that is making oil fast. I drained the crankcase and set it to level, road tested around 8 kms and found it very high when short sticking it. I remover both valve covers and put 30 ml of dye in the secondary filter housing. I ran the hp fuel system test over ten times and found nothing under leaking. Drained the oil(which filled a 20 litre pale) and ran the low pressure fuel pump, turned the engine over with a ratchet and still found no trace of a leak. I find it very odd how I can't find anything obvious, I have to assume the high pressure fuel pump is leaking but it bothers me I can see anything. The thing that I have never see befor is it passes the hp fuel test cold but fails stage 5 by almost 1000 psi when hot. I am wondering if there is any other way of testing the hpp or has anyone tried bench test this pump? Any suggestions

Is anything working for you guys, protechnician.com or pts mobile ? Day 3 for us here

I have used the fleet guard stuff and thought it worked very good.

Just ran that test the other day as well, time will tell if its a good fix.

Had a 2017 f-350, leaking primary rad and cut o-ring on the secondary coolant temp sensor. If you do a primary rad in a 2017 there three foam seals I recommend ordering.

Wow, Thanks

Came across this video about the new ck-4 oil causing premature wear on the 6.7

https://youtu.be/NsZJhOAfwgk

I have a long crank on a 2007 f-350 which is under warranty, some how this truck has esp warranty till 2019 and 191 000 kms    . Its only got 130 000 kms right now, I can only imagine what that esp cost.

Wow, nice repair 

So we ended up getting this jack gray tsp-70, I will get to try it out monday. Should be able to lift anything, 70 ton 

What do you guys use to lift f-550 on the floor, our 20 tone jack just like go today. Is there a big jack out there that make lifting these bigger truck quicker, the old jack I used I would have to lift one side at a time. Let me know what you think would be the best for on ground lifting. Thanks

Just did a pdi on a 2017 f-550, they now have plastic fuel tanks for the chassis cabs.

edit: just saw Keith's post on this topic

I don't understand how this could happen with all the things that can put a truck into a de rate. I guess we have another recall coming for flame throwing.

I agree, I don't like the way the gsb has you flush and does not have you replace the fuel cooler. I removed all the frame mounted lines and flush them out individually. Leaves no doubt that  things are %100 clean.

That lower fuel filter sure looks funny and that def tank looks like there is an access port for service.

So when are they going to do this recall for the 6.4`s

In the middle of one right now. Truck had a turbo failure, sent oil down the exhaust. Another tech put in the turbo, contacted hotline to see if entire exhaust should be replaced due to contamination. Hotline replied with telling him to remove assembly and stand on end to drain oil for 24 hours and perform multiple regens. He has done as directed, this thing smoked out half the dealer parking lot for the better half of the day before it finally cleaned up. Performed scr drive cycle, retested, came back clear and shipped it. Came back a few days later with p207f, he ran the pinpoint test and threw a nox sensor at it. He went on vacation and now its back with same code. The only thing I confirmed was a def injector leak after running leak test multiple times back to back. It would pass the dosing test every time but when I let it sit under pressure running the leak test you would start to see it seep and if I wiped my finger across it, it would be wet. Replaced the injector, reset everything and did scr drive cycle. I put 40 miles on it and retest, p207f  didn't return but now has p020ee or whatever the code is for scr efficiency. I'm calling bullshit on ford hotline claim of draining and doing manual regens. Waiting to throw assembly on and see what happens. Ford claims the 6.7 doc, dpc, scr assembly is a lot more robust compared to the 6.4 but I don't see how it could still work efficiently when its coked up with oil. This is only the second time I have had to diagnose this code and its going about as well as the first time. Its seems like nobody has any luck with it.

Hotline told me the same thing about oil in the the src system, i have a hard time believing that it would not damage it some how.

I think I need to take speed lessons from that guy from Gilliam. Hahahahah

What do you do with the fuse box? do you just lay it on the engine.

I just worked on a f-350 6.7 dually with ford's pre paid maintenance. I performed a #2 service oil/filter/lube/inspection. Found the rear brake at 2mm so it needs brake pads. I was told by my shop foreman we are not to replace or machine rotors now so I was told just to replace the pads which now only pays 0.1. Is this right ? is that all they are paying or does my shop foreman have the wrong information. You get 1.4 for the #2 and 0.1 for brake pads, just seems very low to me. 

Had one where someone replaced a caliper and could not get the air out. No amount of manual bleeding could get the air out, you have to use a pressure bleeder.