2006

On 1/9/2024 at 8:47 AM, batmantech said:

I have completed a few of these.  The ones here went right through with no issues. I will say that you have to follow the instructions closely. I think the completion words on the screen state complete then go away. Honestly I didn't have any issues

I'm doing a super duty, how long did it take for the usb portion to finish?

I am doing recall 23C25 to replace the instrument cluster module.  While doing the PMI, the FDRS instructs me to plug a usb drive into the laptop and then into the vehicle usb port. It seems like the usb software update does not finish even after 2 hours. 

Anyone having success with this recall?

Anyone have a cheap source for service manual dvd's? I use them when the internet goes down. 

I have saved a bunch over the years, 1992 to about 2010

Looking for some late ones. 

I just did 21E01 on a F550. Immediately after, it was stuck in idle mode. I didn't even get it out of the shop. There were no codes in it, everything passed. WTF???

I did the idle fault procedure in the pced, watching egts, def injector duty cycle, drive on lot, etc...

It came out of idle mode and ran fine on a road test, still no codes set. 

I have done these reflash recalls a lot of times before, but this is the first that gave trouble and I'm not sure why...

we were on reynolds, then switched to cdk because it was cheaper. 

never heard of pbs. 

On 8/19/2020 at 2:40 PM, lmorris said:

For anyone getting kicked into Microsoft Edge when they log into Inford or PTS, this is what you need to change. Open Egde, open drop down menu- three DOTS in top right corner, click settings, click Default Browser, SET Let Internet Explorer open sites in Microsoft Edge to NEVER. This will stop IE from saying PTS is no longer supported in IE and opening Edge.

For anyone still having the old login screen and then the new one, just change your homepage or bookmark to either www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com or www.atfmcdealer.dealerconnection.com. This will eliminate the old login screen.

I was trying to figure the edge problem out for about for 2 weeks.

I googled and check some computer websites. 

The answer is here, on DTS

Big THANKS!

Did the master cylinder go empty at any time during the service?

I remove the front larger diameter water tube. I unbolt the one beside it, but don't pull it out of the engine block, just rotate it to the rear a little. Need to do that to get at the front lower cooler bolts. This is what the service manual says. It also says to remove the dipstick tube, I just leave that in place.

Its about 2 feet long from mac. Or weld a few shorter ones together. Makes the job easier

I just did my first EGR bypass recall on the F150. Basically took me all day. Carefully went through all the instructions step by step. Should be able to meet or beat the time on the next one. 

On my road test, the thing stalled at a red light. I was relieved when it was the start/stop system. This is the first diesel I drove with start/stop.

If you haven't done one, you should have a extra long 1/4 drive extension and a 1/4 drive 8mm and 10mm flex socket, they will make things a lot easier. 

Be careful when positioning the cooler back on the engine. There is a coolant pipe with a 3 ribbed seal that has to be inserted first, had a problem inserting it. 

On the rear of the cooler there is 2 small 6mm bolts that attach the exhaust elbow to the cooler. Make sure you use a good fitting socket on these.

I  looked up a P1177, can't find it???

Try disconnecting the throttle plate connector or monitoring the pids for it.

I  had one that the vref wire was broken at the throttle plate connector. Was making a intermittent connection. Was bucking and jerking at various times.

On 12/7/2018 at 6:59 AM, mchan68 said:

Remove the wiper cowl and fresh air inlet duct. Trust me, it'll make easier work of accessing the clamp as well as the fasteners at the back of the cooler.

I also remove the hood to get my fat head in there.

The hood has studs and is very easy and light to remove and reinstall. 1 person, 1 minute job. 

I have a 2018 with about 20000 miles that sets a P0401. 

I did pinpoint tests W and AZ. When checking flow through the cooler, it passes. Test says the system is working properly. 

I've probably done at least 100 egr coolers for this code on previous years and the pinpoint test always worked in identifying a restricted egr cooler. 

This is the first 2018 model year truck I am doing with this code. They have a different egr cooler and bypass valve compared to previous years. 

Without disassembling anything, I can't identify whats causing the problem. 

Any ideas?

What sockets are you guys using for the 6.7  injector hold down bolts?

I find the T50 torx fits but does not insert all the way, A T45 torx is too small,  loose.

The T45 Torx Plus fully inserts and fits ok.

The Snap-On FTX-500 fully inserts and fits all the way. I think this socket was for GM seat belts?

Whats the proper socket??

Edit:

The T50 I was using is actually a Snap On T50C, I don't know what the "C" means.

There was a ssm for spread pins in the dlc causing this. Somehow the ids overloads the networks because of the spread pins. I believe it was the ground pin at the dlc. 

I look after 3 buses that drive from  hotel to hotel to pick up passengers. All are within short distances. 

All 3 have had exhaust systems replaced. All 3 still set 207F codes once in a while. 

The only thing that fixes them for a period of time is to do a dynamic regen. Then do the scr drive cycle. Drive it until the NOX_EVAL pid shows "yes". After that, the mode 6 nox coversion effiencey is about 80 to 90%, which is good. I then let the buses go. They usually come back after about 10,000 to  15,000 miles with the same code. I just repeat the regen and drive cycle and charge them 4 hours retail. 

If your doing a fuel system on a 6.4, whats the best way to flush out the cylinder head fuel passages? 

The service manual says to flush clean fuel through it with a suction gun. But I don't know how clean that will get...

Is this truck driven at slow city speeds?

29% is too low.

Before replacing anything, do a dynamic, driving regeneration. 

Drive again at a steady highway speed until the nox_eval pid shows yes. It indicates the monitor completed.

Check mode 6 data for nox efficiency. See if its better. I find they should be about 80% or better.

Just installed 107 a few days ago.

Noticed that the software updates is not listed in IDS utilities tab. Also got a error on installation, something to do with "flexnet" 

Tried downloading and installing 2 times, same  problem.

I still had revision 106 saved, reinstalled that, and everything works properly.

Maybe a glitch with 107? Or maybe software updates are now automatic without any user input?

Don't have anti virus and turned the firewall off.

This is just a strict IDS laptop, only used in the shop and no other programs installed.

I know this is a diesel website, but  I thought I'd ask.

When programming sync, generation 2, I'm having a problem programming, I have to program it twice for it to work.

The first part of the programming works well, its the last part where you transfer the usb drive from the car back to the ids. I always get a error code, general failure 4001. I then reprogram it a second time, then it all works.

I've configured the browser according to fords gsb instructions, tried different usb drives, different usb cables,even reloaded ids, but get the same issue.  

Any ideas?

Well after a long time and a lot of head scratching I got this one figured out. It got worse and they finally decided they wanted it looked into more. I used signal generator on ids to watch actual icp and pcm interpretation. pulled rh valve cover. New check valve is broken. Not so new anymore I think it's been 2 years since I had put in.

Good catch.

I use the ids daily, the ids oscilliscope sometimes, but have never used the signal generator.

Maybe you can explain more on the signal generator diagnosis please. What did you simulate and what did you watch. Thanks

I know most people won't like this but for problems like this,  I sometimes run them on brake cleaner to diagnose it.

Turn the key on for a few minutes to let the glow plugs time out. Crank it, then spray brake cleaner into the throttle body. Once it starts, keep spraying cleaner in it. I have run them for about 5 minutes like this. Let the fuel system bleed out and watch the high pressure fuel actual and desired to see if there are any problems.

 

 

 

This code and the crankcase connector sensor have nothing to do with pressure and the signal value should never vary. The sensor is an anti-tampering switch that indicates the ventilation hose is connected. Nothing more. The 3.7V reading is what the PCM wants to see to verify that the tube is connected. Any more or less indicates a disconnected tube, wiring concern or a faulty sensor.

 

 

 

How would it know if its disconnected?

Part of the pinpoint test says:

• Inspect the turbocharger inlet surface for debris, or dirt that could cause an incorrect connection.

So maybe there is contact inside the hose where it connects onto the lower intake metal fitting? Or maybe a magnetic switch as you said...