Fordracer

Check out this air filter set up. This guy is from Minnesota and he said some shop up there did this for him.

I've put maybe four or five of them in and I haven't had that problem.

I put an aftermarket stiffer spring on my 7.3 and it boosted the pressure to 90 psi and my pump makes a pulsing noise with the key on engine off because it's working to hard. I need to trim the spring down to lower my pressure. Did you check the pressure after you put it in? Maybe the spring isn't seated in the cover correctly causing to much pressure, I had that happen once.

Try 3C3Z-9T517-AG. It comes with a blue spring and gives you up to 70 psi and 55-60 psi with the fuel tester valve open. It's about time Ford replaced the spring and bring the fuel pressure up.

I was told by the hotline one time that using Motorcraft spray silicone instead of ether is safe. I use it quite a bit and it works great. They said they didn't know if other brands work so I tried and haven't found any other brands that will work.

In the Snap On magazine "Fuel" we get from the dealer had an article about a guy named Loren Klebe from North Dakota who submitted a "New product idea form" to Snap On and they helped him develope it.

I have one right now doing the exact same thing. It came in for no boost and the turbo unison ring was stuck. I noticed some coolant stain on the degas bottle but we just did an egr cooler 10,000 miles ago so I thought it was left over residue from that. When I test drove it the degas bottle cap would whistle on decell. I went back to the shop and put a pressure gauge on it and the pressure would go to 13 psi on accell and then spike to 16 on decell. The egr cooler passed the vacuum test so I'm in the process of pulling the cab right now to do head gaskets. I did notice that the radiator fins are completely packed with dirt and grass but the coolant temp never got above 195 so I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

I've noticed a lot of 6.4's with a P1000 in memory and don't know why. I mentioned it to the hotline one day and they don't know why either. You can check the CLR_DST pid and see how long it's been since the codes have been cleared to see if it's been messed with. The ones I've seen it's been several thousand miles since the codes have been cleared.

What is your base engine oil pressure when this happens? It sounds like you might be loosing oil pressure to feed the high pressure pump.

I don't set the dowel at 6:00 either but I make sure the pistons are down in the bore. You could have clearence problems if the pistons aren't down far enough because the lifters are pumped up and the valve will open farther untill the lifters bleed down.

I did head gaskets on one last month and I had it all together on a friday and waited untill monday to start it and it still had no compresion untill it cranked over for along time. I thought the lifters would of bleed down over the weekend but they didn't.

I think it's number 3 injector that causes the problem. If you unbolt the solenoid and take it off the injector it comes out without pulling the motor mount.

To pull the injectors all you need is a long bolt that goes in the bolt hole that holds the oil deflector on and screw it in to push on the head and it will push the injector out.

Be sure to drain the oil out of the head by pulling the two small allen bolts out so the oil doesn't go into the cylinders.

I see Ford got to keep the Powerstroke name. I was wondering what they were going to call it.

It seems like these are gelling up on the highway. I guess the cold air blowing around the fuel tank is causing it if that's possible.

My truck has been sitting outside unstarted for a week and I started it last night at 6 degrees and my fuel isn't frozen. Maybe different suppliers have different blends.

I've had 3 6.4's come in this week dying while driving on highway and then restarting after sitting a couple hours and they all had no codes in memory and are running fine now. I was wondering if the fuel was gelling on them.

It sure would have been nice if Ford had a sensor in the low pressure fuel system to monitor the presssure and to set codes.

We have been having unusually cold temps around here for the last few days, below 10 degrees for 3 days in a row and now we are seeing gelling of fuel. Even our own fuel pump is frozen and it has an above ground tank.

I tried to google "ULSD freeze" and the only thing I could find was that USLD freezes at higher temps than LSD. Usually when the fuel is cold soaked for 2-3 days around 5-10 degrees. People around here aren't use to running anti gelling additives.

I know alot of you guys see much colder temps than we do in Kansas but your customers are probably used to running anti gelling additives.

Has anyone else seen ULSD freezing sooner than previous diesel fuels?

Working till noon. Of course that means they don't have to pay us for the rest of the day off. If I have to get up and get dressed and come to town I'd rather work all day or not at all.

We've had to fill out diag sheets on diesels ever since they came out in 1983, before they were a piece of junk.

Nice tip, did you find that by accident? One if my service advisors knows a gillion keyboard short cuts from just playing around.

 

Yes it was an accident. When I was on a test drive my computer went into screen saver mode and when I pushed the space bar to wake it up I noticed the blue bar on the bottom of the screen showing it was recording.

In the event that I can't get anyone to drive a vehicle, I put the cursor of the IDS over the movie capture button, then I rest my hand near the left mouse button. If a concern happens I just tap the button and never have to take my eyes off the road. I then pull over when I can and see what I got.

Here's little tip: You can push on the space bar while in data logger and it will start recording. I also use a VDR quite a bit when I have the shop foreman or the customer drive the vehicle.

Problem found.

After talking to the hotline a few times, they said to try a high pressure pump. They said on the 6.0's they have seen the low side of the pump leak and cause a problem. After I put the pump on the pressure held better but still not right. The pressure was still at 50 psi cold but you had to rev it up to 2,500 rpm to get it to go to 0 psi, before it would go to 0 at 1,000 rpm.

When I used my Snap On borescope to look inside the oil pan everything was spotless so I didn't think the pickup would be plugged but the only thing left to do was pull the motor and take a look inside. As soon as I pulled the pan I say big sections of paint on the inside of the pan missing and the pickup tube was plugged with it. I don't know if this guy used some engine flush at one time or what caused it to happen. We are still waiting to here from him to see if he had flushed somewhere.

Has anyone else seen this happen?

I did a trans service on a torqueshift the other day and used the LV fluid and it raised the price of the service $70.00. If it's supposed to last 150,000 miles it would be worth it. But if someone towing with it and they overheat it will it break down like regular trans fluid and need to be replaced sooner than 150,000 miles?

I assume it has the new style cam sensor in it already but I had one do this a few years ago that had a new aftermarket cam sensor in it.

I'm sorry I haven't been answering your questions. We had a snow storm come through and all the schools were closed so I had to stay home with my son yesterday and our wireless internet is not working because of the weather I assume.

As for Larry, I replaced the oil pressure regulator witch comes in the oil filter housing so it has a new bypass but the old one was still in the old housing. I didn't see what was in the old IPR and the old oil filter is long gone. I had to wait for over a week to get an oil pump so the truck has been here a while.

Bruce, the bottom of the oil pan looks fine. I remember back in the '80s the 302's would sludge up and plug the pickup tube and cause the pressure to drop when going down the highway. I'm thinking the tube screen has to be plugged with something. I have Snapon's new borescope and I looked inside the oil pan but I can't get it to bend sharp enough to see the pickup tube screen. Everything inside the pan looked clean, ie... pistons, pickup tube, main caps.

As far as rusting oil pans, I've worked at this dealership for 26 years and I replaced my first rusted oil pan on a 7.3 this year on an Excursion and I think it must of lived most if it's life elsewhere.

Thank's for all the ideas guys. I guess I'll see if this guy wants us to pull the engine and take a look inside. i'll keep you posted.

Oil pan looks like it still has the factory silicone.

I thought that was on older 7.3's but I decided to try it anyway. I put an extra 4 quarts in it and jacked the back way up and it still does it.

The pump and front cover checked out okay but I replaced the pump anyway and it didn't help.