Jump to content

SteveS

Members
  • Posts

    196
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Posts posted by SteveS

  1. WOW! I think I have finially won on this truck! Posted Image

     

    I started out with the wiring diagram for the cluster early in the job. As you guys know, there is no VSS signal circuit to the cluster, it comes over the CAN. Soooo.... I made the assumption that the signal came from the ABS Module since it is also on the CAN. Didn't even think about there being a separate VSS circuit, because it is broadcast over the CAN, right?

     

    So then when I read Greg's post I had to wonder what the heck he was talking about with the VSS signal circuit, until I looked at the diagrams for the other modules. Ahhhhh..... Armed with a fresh perspective (after putting it off as long as I could) I went out to the truck. Opened the door and looked right at an aftermarket stereo unit; crap!

     

    Pulled the dash panel off to get it out, looked underneath it and saw some wires that were not connected. Once it was out I could clearly see that there was a group of unused wires in the adapter harness with male bullet connectors, and they were all clustered together. The pink wire on the aftermarket harness adapter connected to the Gray/Black VSS circuit. So the bullet terminals were probably rattling against each other randomly, applying who knows what to the VSS circuit (ground? power? noise?).

     

    When I first looked at it they were bundled together. This is after I separated them to have a closer look:

     

    Posted Image

     

    Insulated all the terminals, went for a quick spin and the speedometer looks normal. Put it all back together, went for a longer drive and it (so far) is fixed.

     

    Thanks, everyone for the great ideas. Greg, WOW man, I can't thank you enough for opening my eyes about this system. I would never have found it with my flawed understanding of the communication path. Posted Image

     

    Thanks again!

    Steve

  2. I had a little time "to spare" in my Friday and looked at the ABS light issue that we just caused in the truck. C1175 for the rear axle sensor (big surprise since that's what we just touched). Could have been shorted or open, but turns out to be open. The tech used the good 2 wire cable that we usually use for trailer brakes, looks like Romex on the outside, but good, standed wire inside. Open, none the less.

     

    OK, the circuit appears to be open. So I purposely unplugged the rear axle sensor, can't be any more open than that, right? Start driving the truck and the needle begins twitching. It waves up & down for almost a block and then it settles in to the speed that I'm actually going (about 25 MPH) and appears to read correctly as I slow to a stop. WTF?

     

    Start moving again and the needle starts out twitching for the first half block or so then steady at about the right speed, steady as I come to a stop again. I am guessing that since the ABS creates the speed signal that it can create it from the front wheel sensors, too? There is absolutely no rear axle sensor connection right now.

     

    Maybe the erratic needle is not only because of a poor signal, but because the poor signal is in conflict with another signal?

     

    Wierd.

  3. Well, it has been a week, I owe you guys an update. The truck has been left with us as a "no hurry" kind of job. That takes some pressure off at first, but it tends to get put on the back burner and interrupted, too.

     

    My schedule last Friday was hectic, but I had a moment when I was expecting a waiting appointment that hadn't checked in yet. I thought I'd get something accomplished on this project, went out to it and it wouldn't crank fast enough to start; "Heerre's my sign". The Costco batteries looked relatively new but I was a little suspicious of them. My waiter showed up, another tech swapped the batteries but didn't drive the truck and I didn't get back to it the rest of the day.

     

    Monday morning first thing (the curiosity was killing me) I drove it. Symptom changed so that all was fairly normal to about 20 MPH, then pulsing back and forth between 20-35 till the real speed was 30 something, then steady again.

     

    Made sure that all the steps of the TSB were done. Took all the connectors near the ABS module apart, all looked OK, dialectric greased and reassembled. Aparantly I had sunglasses on the first time through, because there on the underhood PDC the lid had 3 holes where something had been screwed to it but was not there any more. So I looked again at the fuses and this time took each out, tested the pins individually, found a couple that were a little fuzzy and cleaned them. The pins on the relays for trailer lights were green/fuzzy, asked for new ones, but don't suspect that this is related. Oh, look: one of the screws that went through the lid also punctured the FICM relay (OK, tiny hole, but still...), nice. No change.

     

    We've been having trouble programming with our IDS (like: it won't), just one more thorn in my side, so we had to send it out to get the cluster matched to the truck. Tech apparantly had trouble getting it to configure and had to try a few times. I haven't done a cluster, so I can't comment on what might have gone on there. We get it back and the problem is worse again, although not as bad as originally.

     

    Now it will start waving the needle again as soon as the truck starts moving, but now only to about 30 MPH indicated (was flipping up to about 65 before when the truck was actually going about 3). It now still shows speed after the truck comes to a stop again.

     

    So I get the idea that we should run a separate circuit between the rear axle and the ABS module. Another tech is assigned to that, and he reports that the needle still goes whacky and now the ABS light is on. (WOW, that really helped me out; Thanks!)

     

    So, in any case, I didn't want you to think that I forgot to check in. I just don't have any good news. I am sure that when I get some time to review my notes, review your suggestions and think a little I can find another path.

     

    Maybe living in a cardboard box isn't so bad afterall. Looks like I picked the wrong time to quit drinking...

     

    Steve

  4. I was considering replacing the batteries simply because the rack of new batteries is next to my work area and it is easier to do that than to drag out the scope. Cleaning all the major connections should be one of my steps either before or on the way toward that.

     

    I do find it a little disturbing how all the grounds to the bodies these days are an eye tightened against a painted surface. Yeah, I realize that the bolts have the threads that clean the hole as they go in but still...

     

    Thanks a bunch, guys, I am re-armed with fresh ammo. I might not get back to the truck until this afternoon the way that my schedule is looking right now. I'll report when I know more.

     

    Steve

  5. I understand that TSB 07-11-02 didn't resolve the concern?

    Well, as I am thinking about it right now I can't remember working all the way to the end of the bulletin. It has been nearly 2 weeks, and I don't have my notes in front of me here at home. Hmmmmm. That is an excellent question to put me back on track; verifying that I completed the TSB will be where I begin anew.

     

    Thank you!

  6. The pids you pulled for the IC are only for output state control, they don't reflect what the vehicle is actually doing. The one on the top flips the needle from 0mph to max MPH, and the other allows incrimental changes.

    OK, I should look again at the PIDs that are available in that module. I was sort of thinking that if the only "real" sensor signal ends at the ABS module that whatever I could see in the PIDs would not be what the vehicle is actually doing. I'll look at that again.

     

     

    Originally Posted By: MattB
    Look at your rear speed signal towards the last 5 seconds of your recording. It looks like crap. You also have inconsistant readings further up on the rear sensor around -12.5 sec and 7 sec., just not as bad. I bet if you zoom in on that it will match the VSS reading to the PCM. Unless you have wheel slip or chatter going on there, the reading should be smooth as glass like the front wheel speed sensors.
    When I first looked at it I was thinking that it was pretty smooth, but I see what you are saying; it is dependant on the scale I'm using. I wasn't surprised to see that the fronts were completely flat since the front wheels were not turning.

     

     

    Originally Posted By: MattB
    Backprobe the sensor and monitor A/C voltage output with the O-Scope function on the IDS. If it's inconsistant when it acts up, you have a sensor or ring issue. If it's clean, backprobe at the ABS module. If it's crappy, you have a circuit issue between the sensor and module. Another quick test is to overlay the circuit from the sensor straight to the module. If it's better, it's a circuit issue.
    It couldn't hurt to look at the sensor signal at both ends of the circuit with a scope. Overlay is also a good idea.

     

     

    Originally Posted By: MattB
    If I remember right, these are real common for sensors, fuzz in the connector at the sensor, wires breaking in the rear connector, and chafe along the frame by the fuel tank. 95% were sensors though.
    I can see that I jumped past the sensor and circuits too soon, just because the sensor is new and (I thought) the PID looked OK.

     

    Great ideas! Thank you.

  7. Hey guys!

    I have a 2005 F250, 6.0, 5R110 that is giving me fits. When the engine is first started and the truck is sitting stationary the speedo needle rests at zero as it should. As soon as the truck begins to move, even idling in gear, the needle starts bouncing up and down, sometimes reaching over 60 MPH. If the truck is stopped after that the needle stays up, sometimes steady at about 30 MPH, sometimes still waving up and down.

     

    The truck is relatively new to the customer, he is unaware of any tuner software installed in the truck. The truck has 36" tires, the speedometer has not been corrected.

     

    The PCM had codes P0500 (VSS A) and P0503 (VSS Sensor Circuit Fault), and the ABS module had U1900 (Communication Bus Fault). The sensor on the rear axle had a small accumulation of metal that didn't seem like it was enough to cause any problems. The customer wanted the diffs serviced anyway, so we looked inside and didn't find any failure in the bearings or the tone wheel.

     

    I looked at the fuse panel for the improperly installed fuse condition and all looked OK. There was a harness that was pulled tight across a P/S line support clip, but I couldn't see any bare wires, and no change when I double insulated the wires.

     

    We have a chassis dyno, so I was able to test with the wheels turning and still be able to watch the IDS. The ABS module had a good, steady signal, PCM had an erratic signal and the Cluster seemed to have no signal:

    Posted Image

     

    Posted Image

     

    Posted Image

     

    I ran the truck with an indicated 60 MPH on the dyno (needle varying between 40 and 55 MPH) and time the test. Running at that speed for 6 minutes I checked the odometer on the minute, 4 minutes had 0.8 mile increase on the odometer, 2 had 0.7; seemed pretty consistant and probably about right for the tire size.

     

    From those tests I thought that the cluster was the problem, until we replaced it and still have the concern (plus TBC Fault in the display; haven't got that checked yet).

     

    I cleaned the ground at the L/F corner of the engine bay that I believe is G105 with no change. So I am looking for some ideas.

     

    Thanks in advance!

    Steve

  8. Our shop was replacing with Reman and tried a few different suppliers, but we seemed to be doing too many jobs over (indy, so most times we eat labor). Bad all around, customer looses confidence, company is not making money on the second job, no win.

     

    Then we started using Alliants and all of a sudden the trucks started running noticably better. The ones that have good (or even marginal) compression were noticably smoother and more responsive with the new Alliants than they were with any of the remans. They have a great warranty but (IIRC) we have not needed it in a couple years of using their product. Well, Ok not on injectors, anyway. I am remembering that we have had a warranty problem or 2 on other products (we get starters and water pumps from them, also).

  9. Look at Perdels when idling hot to identify which cylinders are weak. Cyls 1-7 should be under 1%, Cyl #8 can be 2-2.5%.

    Have you seen this hold true with the new CPS? It seems to me that nearly all the trucks with the late CPS are setting Cylinder Contribution codes for #8 and the PER DEL on #8 is usually 4% and higher. I think that the idle is noticably rougher with the gray sensor than the black sensor.

     

    What say you?

  10. Congratulations on finding something else that you want to do. It is too bad that the profession that you have worked at all this time has chewed you up and spit you out. I am struggling with my own moral being at a low point, and I suppose if I had something else that I was interested in I would go do it.

     

    Good luck with your new venture. If nothing else, sometimes trying something new makes you realize how much you liked your old situation.

     

    All the best!

  11. and Dice for Volvo.

    Is that like "Diagnostic Dice"? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

    I have trouble trusting anything from China these days. If a regular company sells something from China it is a little easier to have some confidence (although I don't like it). But an email solisitation, I don't think so.

  12. OK, I know that I've been drinking too much, it helps me ignore my wife's blonde-isms. But it seems to me that the length of the torque wrench handle should not effect the torque applied to the fastener. i.e. If set at "x" ft/lbs the force applied to the adapter is the same when the handle is 9 inches long or 18. Isn't it just the length of the adapter that effects the difference between the setting of the wrench and the actual twist applied?

  13. Well, Aaron, I admire that you gave it a try. I am sure that when a person is accustomed to a "normal" climate a move to one that is so different as NWT could be a real shock. I couldn't do it.

     

    I've found my own "perfect" climate, where is is green year round, rarely hotter than 90*F or colder than 25*F. Snow might accumulate to about 6 or 8 inches and doesn't last for more than a couple days. Some find the gray, overcast skies depressing but I am usually most comfortable in sweatshirts.

     

    It sounded like the dealership was a good place to work, too bad the whole package didn't work out. At least you gave it a shot! Good luck on your trip back.

  14. Let's all chant:

    NEW WORLD ORDER!

    NEW WORLD ORDER!

    NEW WORLD ORDER!

    I'm on the way to exchange my remaining Dollars for Euros while I can still get something . Remember, just because you are paranoid it does not mean that they aren't trying to get you. I have to go now, I think I hear the black helicopters coming.....

     

    /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

     

    Added in Edit: I just saw Jim's new avatar; looks good!

  15. I hear what you are saying. It's too bad that someone has to be a part of the party machine to make it in politics. It would be refreshing to have people that simply wanted to repay the country for their success. An indication of the condition that you describe is the amount of money spent on campaigns; unbelieveable! For our local congressional race the 2 canitdates spent $5.8 milion; FOR A 2 YEAR TERM!

  16. we are a satelite shop with limited tools no way to check amps

    work for a guy that owns a chain of restaurants thats where they get the biodiesel

    truck with an 05-06 f-350 6.0l i wonder what in that fuel tank

    I know that money is tight, but a decent amp clampcan be found well under $200; it will save you a lot of grief, and probably save enough time to pay for itself in reasonably short time.

     

    I wonder if they are running WVO? Does "50% Bio" mean that one tank has fry oil?

     

    I'm sure that the 6.0 will be OK, it has 2 filters! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

×
×
  • Create New...