SteveS

Good, one down and one to go.

 

The MAP sensor is on the side of the head toward the back. It should have 3 wires, I believe that it will have the connector style with one wire over 2 wires, sort of configured like a triangle and a large hex body (1 1/4" as I recall) but the replacement might be smaller in the hex area.

 

It is a typical sensor with 5 volt ref, sensor ground and signal. I am relying on a Dodge diagram, so the colors are not right but the 5v circuit is pin A (Orange), sensor ground is pin B (Blk/Blu) and signal is pin C (Gry/Red). It should be that if you look at the wire side of the connector and had the part with 2 pins on the top that A would be on the left, B on the right and C on the bottom. I don't have a sensor chart in front of me but would guess that no pressure should be 0.5v and 25 psi would be over 4 volts. I am not sure where the overboost code threshold is in voltage, in a pickup it is 22 psi.

We see way more Dodges than Freightliners but the 24 valve is mostly the same. I was not able to come up with an evaluation of the code numbers, I am usually stuck relying on our Modis that will get the description with the code. But let's see what we can come up with.

 

The fuel pressure sounds OK for now. I like to check it on the road and have it not go below 5 psi on full load on the injection pump side of the filter. The 12 valve is the one that should have the higher pressure. The electric lift pump on the side of the engine is not very reliable, but it sounds like yours is working. Later when the engine can work at full, normal power you should recheck the loaded pressure. If the engine runs long enough with low pressure it will kill the VP44 injection pump.

 

The wastegate actuator should hold pressure but it won't cause the massive loss of power that you have. If the engine was running correctly then it would over-boost because the actuator is not holding enough pressure to operate; that might be one of your codes. As it is now there is not enough boost loss to make a difference, but my gut feeling is that the MAP sensor is going bad and if the ECM doesn't see any boost then it won't increase the fuel under load. I'll see what I can dig up for testing with no data stream, it will probably be a voltage measurement as you supply regulated air.

 

It hasn't blown off a boost hose, has it? No excess play in the turbo shaft or blades touching the housing?

Have you guys seen a need to extend it that far? We see a lot of failures when it is mounted on the pump, but of the pickups with the driver mounted on a heat-sink on top of the manifold I can only recall seeing one fail. I have heard that some of the "hot rod" 6.5L guys like to put it in odd places, but I just have not found it necessary.

 

We used to use the original harness and do the job without removing the intake manifold. I had only seen one that apparantly had the pump replaced and the harness was routed the wrong way around the injector lines and would not rach to the new location, so the manifold had to come off. However, I understand that recently the warranty is only good on the ne driver if the harness is replaced: off with the intake!

 

Hummer H1 is a different story; not much room, the driver has to go remote.

It seemd to me that they were only reated at about 40 MPG Hiway, caused me to remember that the Geo Metro was rated about 52 Hiway, 15 years ago. Wasn't it, or am I suffering Old Timer's Disease?

 

I recently heard that the Smart had a high crash rating, which really surprised me until I heard that they are rated as to how well they do when crashed into a similar size vehicle.

 

I looked briefly at the website to verify either of those items and did not find those answers but did find: The engine needs premium fuel. They clain it has a top speed of 90 MPH!

That is outstanding service if they will guarantee that the customer can't damage it (apparantly) no matter what.

 

I was using a Stinger rechargable for quite a while, the only problem with it was that I also damaged the lens. My Mac dealer replaced it at no charge and I thought that he was just doing it as a courtesy, but maybe Streamlight reimburses him.

 

I was carrying that light in the pocket on the side of my right thigh in my coveralls and it would frequently slide out if I used a creeper, then the creeper would roll over the top of it and scuff it on the floor. I have changed to a StreamLight Jr. Luxeon that clips to my breast pocket and really like it. I keep a couple sets of rechargable AA batteries and just keep cycling them through the flashlight and the camera that I use at work.

 

It's good to know that there are still some great companies out there!

It's a little crude but I've cut up old valve cover gaskets to get the pins out. I was not doing it to build a cylinder cancel box but to use the pins to check connectors. I know that we have repair connectors for the harness side (which it sounds like you already have that), if some of the pieces of valve cover would do what you need I'd be glad to send a set out.

 

On the 42 pin connector I had an engine harness that I salvaged from a scrap engine and went to a wrecking yard to get the body side connector. Set it up as an extension harness to run one engine from another truck (what a great idea!). It didn't have the pins on one end for the MAT sensor and Wastegate Solenoid but it definately helped me determine that the odd problem was with the engine rather than the truck (PCM, IDM, wiring, etc).

 

I don't have any extra 42 pin connectors but can easily send out valave cover gasket pin sets.

Sorry to go slightly OT

Filters will not catch rust in any engine...

Is that rust that is smaller than the micron rating of the filter? I have found flakes of rust in filter canisters, does that mean that surely there has been smaller rust particles pass through into the injectors? Always?

Thank you, I'll check it out!

That sucks! What a way to kill your paycheck (and your enthusiasm).

Awesome! I got it to work! With the capture open I pressed Ctrl Alt PrtSc to put it on the clipboard, opened the Digital Image program and pasted it there. I then had the ability to put it on our server as a jpeg and open it from any station on the network. It defaulted to a 1000 something x 600 something size file that I could probably reduce a little further without loosing anything.

 

Thanks again, when I get soemthing interesting I'll be sure to share.

Steve

 

Oh yeah, it was an incredible snow season in the mountains. We're hoping that it melts slowly so that we don't have flooding again this year.

Thanks, guys!

Keith, I saw that the screen that you posted was a jpeg and I think that all the PCs that I'd need to be able to open anything in our history could probably open a jpeg.

 

Bruce, I know that some of the terminals here do not have Word and there are only a couple that have actual photo software (I've been using MS Digital Image Pro 9 as this is what our office manager uses, have MS Pro 10 on the IDS laptop), although once it is stored any terminal should be open a jpeg.

 

Yes, we have the IDS now and I LOVE IT! What a great tool! I am starting to get familiar with it. If I were going to complain it would be that there is not a description box that pops up when you place the pointer on a button the way that Windows does. After I remember where everything is that won't be an issue.

 

I still have the time marked on the calendar and planning to attend the classes. Two of us attended Mike Cleary's one day class at ASA's weekend event a week and a half ago (I hope my boss doesn't think that that is enough!) and I picked up some good info. You probably had a good time to be in the PNW, we had snow a couple weeks ago, odd for us at this time of year. Did you have Justin Pulliam in your WSDOT classes? He was a co-worker until he got the state job based in Olympia.

 

Anyway, thanks a lot guys, I have some direction and a little experiemnting to do.

I was admiring Kieth's reproduction of the screen capture in his "Bad HPOP?" thread and wondering how you guys are saving the Capture screens to another location. When I go to the "Select" button and "Select Printer and Print" I have the option to choose Windows XLS. However, when I saved the file on our server and then attempted to open it from another PC it didn't have the Windows program (XLS) that could open it.

 

My office manager suggested that I save as an Adobe file and then it could be opened with any PC that has the free Acrobat software. If I can get it to save as a file that any of our PCs can open then I can attach the Capture to the work order and include it in the vehicle history. Is anybody doing anything like that?

 

Thanks!

Steve

I have been cut by razor blades and sharp aluminum edges through gloves WITHOUT cutting the gloves!

Me too. Handy for keeping the blood off the upholstery!

I gotta dig that thing out. I think I should get this silly thing working so I have it when I need it. Just in case the one I have does not work out, is that banjo fitting commonly available?

I still have a surplus of the banjo fittings and bolts, anybody that wants one (or 2? maybe to check for combustion in the fuel?) just send me a shipping address and I'll send them out. (No charge, my tiny little contribution to the DTS community)

Without wanting to step into a pi$$ing match I'll offer my 2 cents on the topic of wheel nuts.

 

I had several years in Honda and Acura dealerships where routine services were the bulk of the work, at least when the cars came in. Rack it up, yank the wheels, place them in some pattern so that you remembered how they go back on when rotated, inspect the brakes, possibly leave the wheels off until some repair is authorized. Continue with service. At some point reinstall wheels, run the nuts down with some sort of air tool (I'm sure that nobody turns all the nuts down to contact by hand), and if you are going to torque them with a torque wrench there is some chance that you are going to lower it until the tires touch the floor so that they don't spin. And that is where I have seen good techs screw up when they torque wheels by hand. It is easy to get distracted between snugging the nuts with the car in the air and torqueing on the floor. I know that for myself I use some reminder like leaving the torque wrench on the floor next to the driver side. If the nuts are actually loose it is obvious when you drive out of the shop, so the problem is when they are snug but not tightened and come loose out on the road.

 

When you study what torqueing fasteners is you find that the purpose is to stretch the bolt a certain amount, and the amount of twisting force is simply an easily measured way to accomplish that. The torque quoted for a given fastener is for (unless recommended otherwise) new, clean, dry threads. Let's face it, after a year or 2 wheel nuts and studs are probably only dry when we pull the wheels. So that means that the twisting force measured by the carefully used torque wrench is applying less stretch than it did when new. OK, you are a consciencous technician, so you apply some lube so that Mr. Customer could get the nuts off if he ever has a flat tire. Well, unless you know how slippery that lube is and corrected the spec, you just made the stretch greater for the same torque.

 

My conclusion is this: 1) On wheel nuts I have come to believe that a torque wrench may still not exactly torque the fasteners. 2) Even the best tech might someday have the combination of circumstances that lead to the nuts not getting the final torque. 3) If you use a torque stick you can tighten the nuts once and know that they are tight enough to stay on and not so tight to damage anything.

With 30+ years in the trade I was definately turning wrenches before anyone thought of wearing gloves. I remember "washing" my hands in the solvent tank. If I had 2 consecutive weeks of vacation my hands would sting for the first couple days back as I got accustomed to it again. Those were the days, weren't they? (stupid! stupid! stupid!).

 

I've been using latex gloves most of the time at work since about 11 years ago. What I like is the ability to peel off the dirt right away when I need clean hands and not wash several times a day. I haven't had the skin problems that flmmaz has had but I did notice that my hands were drying out, sometimes to the point that it was almost painful. Now I usually wash at lunch and end of day and my skin is happier.

 

However, for accident protection protection I'd think that you would need heavier gloves (Mechanix style). I can see that working for some jobs but most of the time they just wouldn't have the dexterity necessary for what we do. What kind of gloves are they going to require?

I'm just trying to remember the last time I was called "Princess"; makes me feel kinda special. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/king.gif

I bought my laptop almost a year ago when Vista was nearly new. I reasoned that it was better to get the most recent operating system rather than something that would go obsolete sooner.

 

Then I found out that some things would not run on Vista (like IDS) and that most of the 1 gig RAM, which I thought was a lot (previous Windows 98 machine had 64 meg), was consumed by features that I didn't use.

 

So I bought XP Pro. I'll admit it, I was scared to install it and loose the stuff that I already had and/or create a big project getting everything working again. Took it to the company that does the computer support for my work and paid to get it over with. The guy that owns that company usually comes and does the work for us himself, but for something simple like my operating system swap he let one of the junior employees handle it. They called the next day to say it was ready, and I was anxious to have the full use of my RAM.

 

Got it home and started it up to find out that all the drivers had been put into a folder marked "Backup". Sort of like if they had brought their car in to us to have the engine swapped and we gave it back with the transmission, brakes, radio and heater in the trunk.

 

Anyway, I got some of it sorted out, they fixed the rest and I'm now running happier on XP than I was on Vista; and I have not missed any of the Vista features. However, I now realize that I could have bought a better laptop (than the semi-budget minded one I have) with XP already installed for the same investmant I have in buying a Vista equipped model and converting it. Live and learn.

I read this series some time back and realized just how low wages can go. It is simply an eye opening must read. I applaud the American workers for making great wages while it lasted. Read the series here http://detnews.com/specialreports/2004/driven/

The rural area where I grew up in Pennsylvania had one industrial employer that had 2 products: wire harnesses and hypodermic needles. At the time that I was a kid (OK, teenager and had a job there) there was still electronics (like tv sets) "Made in USA" and as I recall they had contracts with RCA and Zenith, and business was good. My mother retired from there quite a while ago and since then they have closed the harness division. I am not sure how they still compete on the needles, surely those can be made overseas cheaper.

 

I had wander-lust and ended up on the west coast; when I visit Mom and Dad I wonder where the money comes from. How do people afford to buy a new pickup for him and a new SUV for her? (And still buy a house and keep clothes on the kids?)

I read the story that you linked, then 15 minutes later the story ran on CNN. They promoted the reduction in CO2 as the reason for the change.

 

I wonder if there are any injection parts in a jet that can be harmed by bio. I suppose that they already have ways to manage the flow at cold temps.

It looks like it is completely different; the urea injects amonia into the exhaust, The Emission Tech catalyst injects platinum into the intake. It wasn't clear to me how much boost it would tolerate. I wouldn't think that it would be injected upstream of the turbo, so it would be on the pressure side and need a pump that was able to make more pressure than the boost.

 

It looks like they have added the news story on their Home page, I see the channel 4 newscaster's picture there. My work computer doesn't have a media player, I'll have to check it out with my PC.

Well, you pose a tough question, Larry. Without knowing what uses you will have, other than your commute, I'd have to suggest that you follow your desire. If you are able to keep it as long as you want, unlike the lease (although I suppose that you could buy it out at the end) where you will turn it back in, you can plan on having a good long life out of your choice.

 

It is harder to justify a Diesel these days. With fuel costing more than gas and higher initial cost, the ROI would appear to be getting farther away. Add to that the suggestion that the Powerstrokes shouldn't be used for extended unloaded driving and it seems like you are asking for trouble by driving it in commute traffic. Unless you are going to haul often enough it is probably not worth it anymore.

 

 

I guess that I am fortunate enough to have a truck that I still like, not making payments, and only have a 32 mile round trip on rural roads for my commute. I give myself the luxury of driving my pickup daily rather than saving a little money with wifey's Outback. However, if I needed to buy another truck, I don't know what I'd look at. What are you considering?

It's interesting tht everything in the NAFTC eNews site appears to be from 2005. I'd think that given the way that fuels are evolving and the increased interest in alternative fuels that they would be more up-to-date.

The local weekend news coverage just ran a story about this catalyst product. Emissions Technology The story that they had showed a couple pieces of equipment at a local construction company, the machine that had the product had no visible smoke from the exhaust, similar machine without product had typical plume of black smoke when revved.

 

According to the website it reduces emissions, extends engine life and reduces fuel consumption. Their cost evaluation uses $2.00/gallon for fuel, so the savings would be even more with today's prices. I haven't priced red fuel lately but if Highway fuel is running about $3.30 I would expect off-road to be almost $3.00.

 

I wonder what the down side is?

 

I switched to another station, they were running a story about a guy with an on-board bio-fuel still. He was about to travel to BC and then east trying to raise awareness of bio. I seriously doubt that the awareness includes failed expensive componants (and no warranty coverage), jelled fuel or plugged filters.

Interesting. I wonder if it is the fluid that GM uses or the configuration of the cooler (or both).

 

"Cold Snap" is also an interesting point of reference; folks around here start whining when it goes below +30*F.