BustedKnucklez

I'll email Keith a picture of the L-11. I've only used the simple green, Ford's VC-1, and this stuff. The L-11 impressed the hell out of me. I've heard of the cascade thing, but the idea of those big granules going through the cooling system gives me the jitters. The heavy truck guy in my shop says that most of his buddies swear by the L-11. He came from a Peterbilt dealer. As soon as I get home I'll send the picture so Keith can post it. I would do it myself but have no idea how to.

I had an ambulance that ruptured an oil cooler and this thing was a real PITA to get the cooling system clean. After about a gallon of Simple Green and around 13 flushes it still looked bad. The heavy truck guy in my shop walks by and recommends this stuff called L-11. My parts dept had to get it from a Radiator shop. Put a 16 oz. bottle in and filled it with water. Drove it around the block. Drained and refilled with water 2 more times and it was completely clean. I was amazed and wanted to share this with you guys. It's called L-11 Cooling System Degreaser. We tested it by putting oil in two brakleen caps and we put simple green in 1 and L-11 in the other. What appears to happen is the simple green makes the oil just stay together and it still sticks to the sides, while the L-11 breaks it down and liquifies it and it doesn't stick to the sides. If any of you have a ruptured oil cooler job, trust me, try this stuff out. Those that try it out, let my know what you think. If you want a picture of it Keith, let me know.

Thanks for the help guys. I got it done. That worked like a charm and no codes. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

From what Im understanding is im to remove the solenoid so that I can pull the injector. Or am I to swap the solenoids only? Sorry to sound dumb but this is the first 7.3 E series I've done injectors on. Thanks in advance.

Do you mean the electronics square thing on the top of the injector? Hmmm....never thought of that. Does it never not work?

I have a stupid (wah)ambulance that I need to replace the #3 and #7 injector on. According to the WSM I have to remove the LH motor mount but cant seem to get it without removing the oil cooler which the WSM says nothing about. I've never done this before and am having a hell of a time getting the mount out. Are there any tips or am I missing anything that anyone can help me out on? All this on the floor /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I saw a T-shirt that said "Made in America, With Mexican Parts"

"If I want any lip from you, I'll get if off my zipper!" "I'd rather push my Harley than ride a Honda" "Take me drunk, I'm home!"

Good info, thanks man. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

I have an oil leaker from none other than the bedplate. I measure the damn thing and the flat surface area isn't warped. But when I measure the depth of the gasket groove it has variances between .147"-.159". I think it should get a new shortblock because the machining on this bed plate is absolutely terrible, very visible with the naked eye. It's been in for service 2 other times for the same concern in which other dealers put a new o ring on the dipstick tube. At this point the customer is going to qualify for a buy back. LukeWarm line says: replace bedplate gaskets and retest. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif If it leaked from the factory, wouldn't it leak again? If the groove has hi and low spots wouldn't the gasket not seal properly at the low spots and thus continue to leak? Have any of you had this issue before? What was the groove machining like and did a reseal solve the issue?

I once did a headgasket job and messed up putting in one of the pushrods. I missed the guide on the headgasket and bent the pushrod. Replaced it and all was well. I know look at every pushrod to verify the placement before proceeding.

Good luck and God bless. Hope it pans out for you /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Damn, im not trying to spend that much of my own money. I guess I'll just have to work around it.

I have to pull the engine on an ambulance with a 6.0L that needs the heads removed. I was wondering if any of you have ever cut the "custom" wiring that the ambulance body builders put in. These dumbasses make them as they never have to come apart. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Im talking about the loom that runs along the bottom Radiator support beam that is by the removable factory loom for the headlights. I was thinking about splicing in some connecters that can be easily detached for servicing but am afraid of messing something up. Has anyone ever done this? Will it mess anything up.

What an A**hole

I got a 6.0 with gas once. Instead of contacting Ford I just gave the customer the option of paying me to drain, drop, and clean his fuel tank and to flush the lines, new fuel filters, add diesel and cetane boost. I advised him that we would only be throwing the dice with this kind of solution and couldn't guarantee how it would run after. Also let him know that if it didn't improve it he would be responsible for the further diagnosis and repair. He declined of course. Whether or not the pump was green and had gas I tend to think that customers will say anything to avoid paying such a huge bill. And if that was really the case, pay for the repair, go back to the station, take a picture and sue the living crap out of the owners of the fuel station. Thats how we do it in Cali. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

I was driving home today and noticed the new price on diesel was $5.29 per gallon. If I had a diesel I would be /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

I just wanted to know how busy you guys have been lately, especially here in the U.S.? Here in So Cal, it's been rather slow. Seems people aren't getting their trucks fixed. But I can't blame them when here in the LA area, i've seen diesel up to $5.05 per gallon. Whats it like in your neck of the woods?

I've checked out a site called http://www.autojobs.com which doesnt seem too bad.

Yeah, thats what I figured. I was working on a CP job and was about to replace a rear main seal only to figure out that it was coming from the injection pump (7.3L) oil feed lines. When I removed the ports the o rings were mangled. I was happy to save this customer a few hundred dollars in an unnecessary repair. I like the patience part of your reply. My first instinct was the rear main seal because of a lack of patience. Thanks. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

How much oil dye do you guys use to diagnose a leak? I've used up to 3 of those little bottles of dye and sometimes still couldn't pinpoint it. Will one be enough for such a big oil system. I was just curious what you guys thought

I always use latex gloves when I work. Like someone before me said, it makes "peeling" dirt and grime off easy. I used to have the problem with excessivly sweaty hands but I guess my hands got used to it because it isnt too much of a problem anymore except during very hot days. But for those days I just take them off and dry my hands often and put new ones on. I don't worry about it because the shop provides them free of charge. To me it's very simple, I make my living with my hands, so I will go out of my way to take care of them. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif

Did I mention I hate cage nuts and bodymount bolts /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I wimped out and pulled the cab

how did you get to the EDOC pipe to head bracket? Thats where im stuck