BustedKnucklez

I can probably get you a california plate. What U.S. address do I send it to?

So...with warranty labor going south, economy also going south, I've thought about leaving the dealership business for an hourly job doing fleet maintanence. Im tired of all the pressure to flag hours when the work just isn't there. Even when it is there it isn't easy to flag high hours in a shop with 5 other diesel techs and heavy warranty work and minimal cp work. Having decent pay periods and then shitty ones make it hard for me to support my family. How much money would any of you leave your dealership for? The other thing that keeps me here is the possibility to flag high hours. It doesn't help to live in Los Angeles where the cost of living is way up. I would like to know what you all think. Thanks. I needed to vent a little.

well shit! I didnt see that. Or maybe I didnt want to see it. Oh well.

He was an American Icon. His music was revolutionary and unique at the time. I wouldn't call myself a fan but I do like alot of his music. Most of it when he was with the Jackson 5. Whatever he might have done wrong, only God can judge him now. RIP MJ

ohh damn. I just flagged one with the front seal op included. We'll see how it turns out. Thats why I revived this topic.

I was just thinking about this, do you think EGR Cooler R&I would fly in this? EGR Cooler Assembly (9F464/9P456) - Remove and Install or Replace This labor op requires that the repairing technician be certified in Training Specialty Area 52 or 51. When claiming 9456A*: Do not use with; 6007A1*, 9424A, 9424AZN, 9424A1, 6642A, 10346A* When claiming 9456A*: Do not use with; 8600A* For vehicles equipped with; 6.0L DIT. When claiming 9456A*: Do not use with; 8620F* For vehicles equipped with; 6.0L DIT. When claiming 9456A: Do not use with; 9438A For vehicles equipped with; 6.0L DIT. When claiming 9456A: Do not use with; 8005A For vehicles equipped with; 6.0L DIT. When claiming 9456A: Do not use with; 8146A For vehicles equipped with; 6.0L DIT. When claiming 9456A*: Do not use with; 6646A* For vehicles equipped with; 6.0L DIT.. * Overlap includes ALL labor operation category codes such as Left, Right, Both, One, All, Upper, Lower, High, Low, etc. 6.0L DIT 9456A 5.0 As you can see it doesn't overlap with any of the ops for a bedplate reseal. What do you guys think?

I also just lightly lube the threads with clean oil. I have this can of CAT Moly Paste and I put a light coat of this on the bolt shoulders where it makes contact with the head and they go on smoothly and are easier to torque. You do have to also make sure that the holes are clean. I spray brake clean in there until it comes out of the holes clear and then blow it out with a blow gun. It works for me. I would like to reiterate what DamageINC said about coating them until they drip oil. That can also give you improper torque because of the compression of the oil at the bottom. Good luck.

If the RO says "waiter" guess what, they can fucken wait!!!!

On the studs, I have to strongly oppose doing them in chassis. I personally would pull the engine. I think it's worth it especially being CP. I know a guy thats done it in chassis and the damn thing leaves on a bungee cord. It's come back about 3 times with blown headgaskets. He even managed to break one of the ARP studs. I finished a job like that in 3 days by pulling the engine. I did coolers, and turbo cleaning as well. I know you cab pullers will say that you would have had it done in 2 days. It was a piece of cake.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again,....CAB ON All THE WAY!!!!!

I spray the crap out of it with WD-40 then put a 6 pt 10mm wrench and use a big pry bar. It works for me. I have used a torch to remove though. I just replaced an oil cooler on one. The EGR cooler was still good. I hadn't done an 03 in so long the turbo gave me a hard time.

USMC

I need to correct myself. I saw a video on Ford's website and it says the 6.2L V8 will be a SOHC.

The last one I did I flagged for oil pressure testing and crankcase pressure test. Both those could technically cause the bedplate seal to leak. My warranty nazi got it paid so it should fly.

I have this side job for a friend of a friend that intermittenly wont start. He says that he notices that this happens when his "wait to start" light doesn't turn on when he cycles the key on. I got a p0403. He told me he disconnected the batteries trying to get it to start. Any ideas?

To test the bottle and cap I use an air pressure regulator with some hose. I keep it closed and hook up the shop air and slowly open it until I slowly reach 16 psi. It works just fine for me. I use the same regulator when testing the EGR coolers. I paid $4 dollars for the regulator and got the hose free with the air adapters from the shop. It works great. I never test the oil cooler with the radkit thing because I've seen one pass that test. The engine gets re assembled and road tested and the temp spread is like 17*F. I monitor pids on initial road test.

Using a run of the mill block tester with blue combustion testing fluid. I was pulled in to the office today and advised that I am only going to get 33.5 hours for the job. Im definately taking it in the cheeks on this one.

A buddy and fellow tech has a torque wrench that he bought at Harbor Freight Tools. If you haven't heard of Harbor Freight, it's a budget tool store. He paid like $30 for a 3/8" drive and it was as accurate as my $259 Snap on. His just recently broke after about 2 years of service. About the same service life for $230 less. Sounds good to me.

Well I figure it must have been the headgaskets because if there were combustion gases in the cooling system and the EGR coolers were fine, than what else can it be? Anyway, I flagged the thing and managed 40.9 hours with lots of MT/Labor Op combos. They sent it to the Warranty guy in Dearborn to see if it will fly. Im crossing my fingers. It's definately justified in my opinion. It was a really long story.

It releases pressure at 15 psi. I've only seen 1. When I tried to order 1 I was told that there were 3000 on backorder.

Performed pinpoint test for coolant loss as per WSM. All passed except the combustion gas in cooling system aka block test. Pulled both EGR coolers and heated and air pressure tested-no leaks. As per hotline, replace headgaskets. There must be something wrong with the headgaskets because Ford did update them to a much thicker multi-layer metal gasket with black sealing surfaces.

I started tearing it down last week on monday 2/23. Its running right now as I type this message. I would have had it running sooner but I sent the heads out for pressure testing, and waited today for about 2.5 hours for some parts. Not bad considering the last job I did took me about 3-4 weeks of off and on working on it.

I'm finishing up a 6.4 that I needed to replace headgaskets, front cover, turbos, oil cooler, and t-stat housing. Of course the jack ass body builder welded the friggin ladder rack on so no way to do cab off. Anyway, I don't know how to flag it to get something half-way decent on it . Any suggestions?