BustedKnucklez

Yup, no motivation. Well, at least it's Friday. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

Good point.

Engine overheated. It seems to have been leaking coolant for a while now. It has coolant residue about an inch thick. It has a nasty rod knock. The damn thing had an overspeed code set @ 81mph.

Here's a pic with the overhang still in place.

The damn boom isnt even extended. It has some pneumatic legs on the rear that I had intended to set when I was ready to lift it, but the guy that signs my paycheck said no so I started the cab on R&I procedure. We'll see how it goes. These jack asses have more than 1 of these trucks.

This is the truck. The overhang was already removed by the company themselves.

I remember reading somewhere that Ford is going back to pushrod engines. I don't know how true that is though. Seems like a step back to me. Has anyone else heard something like that?

Of course, I get to be the first one in my shop to do a cab on engine R&I /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif This thing has the biggest boom I've ever seen on a truck. The company that owns it tried to make my life easier by removing the huge overhang and raise the boom straight up so that I could lift the cab. The owner of the dealership saw it and said, "no way, no how." I see their point in that with no cab or engine on the front and all that weight on the rear, they're afraid of the damn thing just tipping over. I'll post a picture of it when I get home tonight. So now that I bitched about it and feel a little better, does anyone have any tips or shortcuts. Has anyone even tried this? I know there is no labor op and advised that there will be a load of MT. For some reason my butt seems to be puckering as if it knows that im about to get screwed. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

I saw a reman long block installed and when fired up ran crappy. After the tech did some diag he had to pull the right cylinder head because #7 had a loss of compression. When he pulled the head it had new pistons in the first 3 holes( cyl#'s 1,3,5) and a completely melted & trashed #7. He had to remove the other head and SPW the shortblock. Seems the new cylinder heads aren't that much better. I put new heads on a truck about 2 months ago and one of the heads had an intake valve the was intermittenly getting stuck open. After removing it and tearing it down, I found that the valve was machined piss poorely and would sometimes not seat properly. SPW that head. It makes me wonder what kind of skill level these people have. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

Replacing the ICP worked. No more black smoke. I wiggle tested the pigtail and it was fine so I just left it alone. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I must say that I am truly impressed by that post, Jeff_E. I 100% agree with you. I too voted for Obama. A lot had to do with that generational change that you speak of. Great post, really great post. C'mon Keith, we need to stand behind our commander in chief, just like all you republicans said whenever Bush made another boo boo. Our country took a giant leap for mankind. God Bless us all. By the way, Jeff, can I share that post with others?

It's just a puff of black smoke. It's not continuous.

I got an '03 with the ICP sensor on the HPOP. It gives a little bit of black smoke during hard acceleration at speed which is what the customer is complaining about. It has no codes and the only thing that I really see off is that the ICP sensor is reading .13V KOEO. Would that cause that kind of problem? The truck runs good.

I started driving in the 90's and still drove my dads Econoline. Ex girlfriends I had some great memories in that van. My older brother drove it too. The rear bench would fold out into a bed We used to call it the porno van.

Well said. Keep in mind though that part of this profession is that we are getting paid for what we know. Our knowledge is what I would consider 1 of the many tools in our arsenal. That in itself should have some value and is part of the cost.

Don't modern locomotives run on diesel-electric power? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Same thing with the fuel filters. The first one I got I didnt notice it was aftermarket and was pissed when I couldn't get the stupid filter off the cap. After figuring this out, I felt pretty dumb. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

They're part of my car lockout kit /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

How did that second engine exceed the cost cap? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif I recently did a short block on 1 due to a bent #8 rod. I replaced both heads due to cracks on the valve seats in most of the cylinders. Replaced #8 injector due to it leaking causing the bent rod. Replaced the oil cooler because the oil cooler gaskets weren't available. With all this including labor, according to prior approval, I was at about $8,900 including labor. Also replaced map sensor due to heavy coking, and egrt1. I was praying to go over the cost cap to just do a complete engine. No such luck. Had to do it. It was my first shortblock on a 6.4 Damn thing ran great after that.

LOL

Thanks Keith. You da man.

I pulled the heads this morning in about 4 hours. When I torque them im in the engine compartment sitting on the radiator support with my legs spread out on the frame rails. If im torquing the left head I have the motormount nuts off on the left side, right side nuts are in. Jack up the transmission at the bellhousing. this makes the engine's right side lean over and raises the left side making access easier and vice versa. If stopping in the middle of the step was a problem, you would be torquing each head bolt 270 degrees without stopping(90x3). I've been doing it like this for a little over 2 years now. I've never had a repeat headgasket repair. It sounds much more complicated than it is. But as it was previously said, everyone has a preference. This is a picture of the truck this morning with the heads off. And no, I don't do bedplates in chassis. I pull the engine.

test

I just keep it simple. I cycle the key on a few times first. Jump out of the truck, stick a pocket screw driver in the shraeder valve on the fuel cooler til nothing comes out. And repeat the process a few times until no bubbles come out. And it starts right up. I have never had one turn off on me in this manner. It's a little ghetto, I know, but it works. Im gonna pressure wash the engine compartment anyway, so phuck it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Im with Alex on this. I've pulled 6.0 cabs before but got irritated when some jack ass moved the chassis and I had a hell of a time trying to get the cab to line up again. I just pulled both heads on a 6.0 this morning, cab on baby!! It's really not that hard and like everything else in life it really comes down to tecnique. I also think there is too many things that IMO can go wrong in lifting the cab. The last thing I need is for a customer to come back and say that the have a weird squeek everytime the hit a bump. And no, I don't hack them up when done with cab on. You cab pullers, what are you gonna do when you get a party bus with an overhang on the cab? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif 'just pull the engine?' By the time you pull the engine, I'd have both heads out. This one's for you Alex. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif