Coolcat390

misfire causing the lack of power

last time the truck was in it had low fuel pressure. The tank was replace last year but the sender was never replace. I put a new sender, pump and regulator in and got the pressure up to 70psi @ WOT. Im thinkin some of the injector were damage from that.

its a 2001, i already did a manual compression test and all the cylinders are right around 400 psi cold. the concern is its blowing smoke and has no power when towing. the color is a bluish white. already check for the turbo leaking oil internally. i try using the predel but i dont know whats the acceptable limit. i was thinking just pulling all the injectors and bench testing the way the pced tells you to.

Does any one have a reliable what to isolate which cylinder is missing on a 7.3L? I dont have access to a cut out box. I tryed a KOER cylinder contribution self test and it always says pass. i found some kind of pid in datalogger for each cylinder but dont know what it monitors? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Tom

just got done doing my first 6.4L short block. The engineers must have got alot of death threats because i neve seen so many gaskets come with a engine. The only thing it didnt come with was downtube gasket and clamps, motor mount bolts, flexplate bolts, coolant and oil. i'll try to type up the bill of material list it came with. Even had a motorcraft fuel filter set!

DO NOT buy this socket, first bolt i put it on it broke. Got another from the snapon guy and did the same thing. They should have made it a impact socket not chrome.

had a customer do that last month with a F450 pickup. Drain the tank and changed the fuel filters and it ran fine! Told the guy to go and buy a lottery ticket before his luck runs out

If anyone is interested i have a parts list for this job as well as some other 6.4L repairs. Shot me a email and i'll send you a spreadsheet.

That is awesome, he can come to my dealership anytime

I want to flush out a 7.3 the way we do on the 6.0 with VC9. Is there any plugs in the block so i can make sure that i completely remove the vc9 after the flush?

Look in SLTS under the basic number 6k854, the turbo pipe pays 6.3 hours

The fan clutch in my 99 F250 7.3L is starting to go. Insted of replacing it with another fan clutch i was thinking about replacing it with a electric fan. Does anyone have any insight into thie modification?

We had one come from another dealer were the last tech broke the bolts off in the turbo. Instead of drilling it out they put a c-clamp on the flang and shipped it. Quality is job none!

pull all the cab bolts except for the back 2. Disconnect the battery cables and the CAC hoses. Lift the front of the cab ( be mindfully of how close the bed is to the cab). Lift it high enought that you can get a 4x4 under the first cab mount. Remmove the R/S inner fender and trans dipstick if equip. Should have no problems R/R inlet pipe or downtube.

send me a email, i have a short cut for this percedure. usvictory45@aol.com

Check the drain back valve under the oil filter. Seen a couple cause long cranks that show up as HP oil leaks.

On my '99 F250 i was thinking about putting 70hp fuel injectors for pensalcola diesel in my truck. I was wonder if there would be any fuel economy inprovments or would this hurt it? The truck only has a 4in turbo back exhaust kit in it now and get about 15-17mpg on the high way. Also was thinking about the carbon fiber intake form cfmplus. Any feedback on them yet? Thanks Tom

The bottom line is that there the idoits paying us.

Hotline told me to remove both coolers and test them. i guess there is no real good way of finding out which on is bad until you leak test them. I got them out in a hour and a half, didnt have to remove every thing the book told me. Our field engineer told me that id the expanion joint on the vertical cooler moves or gets bent that you should replace that one too. Along with hunting down all the nuts, bolts, and clamps this is going to be a nightmare.

I got a 6.4 F350 in the other day with the customer saying that the engine is losing coolant. Already had 2 rads put in it. Pressure tested it, but no coolant is on the ground but the pressure is droping. Call the hotline and told me to pull both EGR coolers and tested them. Sure enought the horizontal cooler is leaking. Im starting to get that sinking feeling again. First one for our shop, any one eles see this?

Yeah it does suck that the SCT fitting times got cut. But adding labor ops for removing valve covers to find other leaks is a good idea. I always had to fight with our warrenty clerk and service manager when i found more leaks under the valve covers. This is a better system then the old TSB, but a flow chart would make it even easier.

What we think is that the '03 MY only puts out 22psi of boost and the new MY are as high as 28psi. This high pressure blows the head gaskets quicker and fills the coolers with carbon.

The problem we see the most is when the oil cooler gets restricted and overheats the screen under the cooler ripps and sometime takes out the high pressure pump and IPR. My idea was instead of replacing the oil cooler in tsb 08-3-7, is to flush it on the truck. Maybe modify a trans flusher to do the oil side and use chemicals on the coolant side. If we do head gaskets almost every time the oil cooler needs to be replace.

Every one at my dealership including myself has been replacing oil coolers non-stop due to the 25 degree split of EOT and ECT. Does anyone think it is possible that the oil cooler can be flushed out to solve this problem?

It was pitted from cavitation. Pictures to come.