rgarver

Why pull engine?I have done head gaskets with cab on and used studs. Same as using bolts,install studs,snug'em and install nuts then torque.Pulling engine seems like a lot of extra work but to each his own.

Found it!After much thought and debate in the shop I decided to remove hi-pressure pump cover and have a look and there it was!The front brg in the hi-pressure pump was shot and part of the brg was just loose and flopping around.It will get a new pump, ipr and whatever else hotline wants to do since it is still under warranty.Thanks for your response Bruce and I hope this information will help somebody else!

Have an 05 6.0 here that I hope someone can help me with.I replaced IPR last week for a no start and it ran ok. Customer had oil changed and left. Truck gets towed back today,quit on road and will not start.Codes,P0336,P0341,P2284.It will build 300-500 psi of icp pressure if you crank it long enough,also noticed gauge did not move.Checked oil pressure at EOT port and have none,checked regulator valve in front cover and NPF,removed oil filter and cranked engine and it would pump oil into the housing ok. I then noticed that the oil had a lot of metal particles in it, almost like metallic paint.I have pressure tested hi-pressure system and have not found any leaks. Any ideas where I may be loosing base oil pressure and where all the metal particles may be coming from? Hope someone has seen something like this before,THANKS

I had a 04 freestar that would go to 250 degrees or more on scanner above 70mph, below 70 it was ok. Dash gauge would also go to hot which was customer complaint,but van never showed signs of overheating. Hotline had me replacing thermostats,cylinder heads and the fix was to move CHT sensor to rear cylinder head. No one at hotline could give me a good explaiation of why it read so hot in the front head and why it didn't become a problem until 40k miles.(just out of warranty)

OK, got it posted thanks to Daughter. (Learned a lot about computers from my kids.)It's in photopost and titled "3v valve spring compressor".Simple modification that has worked great for me and is easy to do.

I can post a picture probably on wednesday. Need Daughter to help since she has digital camera.

Here ya go!Remove thumb screw on top of tool,I used a turnbuckle nut 1 3/4" long(or you could weld 3-4 nuts together) screw nut on top of tool and then use 1/2"-13 bolt, 1 1/2" long as a forcing screw to push spring down.Keep bolt and nut in your toolbox for future use!Hope this helps.

If I remember, (it has been a couple years,) I modified a turnbuckle nut (about an 1 1/2" long)from a hardware store to get the extra travel. The tool is at work and I'm trying to remember what I used but it worked good.If you have any questions I can get exact dimensions at work tomorrow.

I have found that the special tool simply does not have enough travel. I modified our shops tool with a 1/2 inch bolt and nut and was able to get a little extra travel to compress the spring enough to get the keepers out.