zog

thanks for the support guys, all went well, the truck is on the road with out any problems.

I have the tools, i dont have a plate for the rear 2 though, that would be nice. i was going to use a bolt in the tap and a couple of prybars.

186,000 miles, like i said the sm hasn't let me down yet, been fair so far.

I havn't been band from the message board, but i definetly didn't make the hotlines christmas card list.

I'm guessing a good set of GY MTRs and that would still be rolling!

I will say the dealership has always taken care of me when it wasn't a self induced shit show. They are fair in that aspect, but i wasn't 100% sure if this wasn't my doing being that i just replaced those injectors?

Which hot line the one in Detroit, or New Hampshire =)

yup im with ya, needs to be gentley fucked with an air hammer!

Never the less ill be performing this repair out of charity, i don't think the customer would be able to comprehend the fact that it is strictly coincidental.

It has brass cups, i found cylinders 2 and 4 had cracked cups. those are two of the three cylinders i installed new injectors in. I had no problems installing the injectors, lubed the orings and applied a SMALL amount of pressure with the palm of my hand to install them, where did i go wrong? Is this somthing i caused?

same here

It is an 2001 f350, i'm not familiar with what the cups are made of.

I have a 7.3l that i installed 3 injectors in for a sludging concern, none of the 3 were pulsing oil from the spout. After replaceing the 3 injectors i took it for a road test, no problems. Sent it to wash bay to be cleaned, they brought it back and i noticed fuel leaking on the ground. Upon further inspection i found that it was coming out of the coolant resivior. None of my injectors went in hard to suspect a cracked injector cup. Only one of two things i know of can create this concern, either a cracked cup or cracked head. Any other thoughts?

Low transmission fluid not allowing the torque convertor to completely disengauge when put into gear. that would explain why the rpms dropped, and the truck wanted to lurch. topped off fluid, surge/lurch stopped.wtf

I have a 2002 f350 w/7.3l, it surges as soon as you put it in drive or reverse. No codes. Monitered pids, found rpm to drop to 350 from 550, icp to rise from 450 psi to 1050psi, ipr jump from 10% to 20% and app stayed steady at 9.5%.Sound oil leaking into icp connector, replaced sensor and connector, no change. suspect possible ipr, replaced, no change. Has anyone run into this?

Another tech in the shop had a 6.4l come in skipping, cylinder 2 valve burnt, any one get any concrete awnser on the cause yet?

I have done quite a few manifolds, I try and stay away from the hot wrench. Once you heat the stud you have tempered it, and in the event that you have to drill it, you will be eating drill bits. A couple of tricks that have been rather succesful, if the stud is sticking out, give a few hits with your air hammer, I use the hammer head bit, they usually thead right out with little effort. If it is broken off flush you can ake a pick and clear the corrosion from around the stud and utilize a left handed drill bit. typicly the studs arn't siezed, just rotted, you just have clean out the corrosion. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Not only does it boost the cetane you should how well it cleans the combustion chambers. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

The truck came in with hard start, long crank.Had excessive time to build low oil pressure. Found an aftermarket oil filter not compressing the drain back valve all the way. Think they will ever learn? After market oil filters VS factory filters. [/img]

Hot tip, if you run into charging system codes on the 6.4l check the connector at the altenator have found counduit rubbing the insulation off creating the green monster and causing codes P0620, P008C, P0563, P0625, P132C, b1317,u0155. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

I didn't perform the procedure, but i did advise and help with the tourque calculations. I know the tech used new lines, and had no leaks while cycling the key, I would think the high pressure lines would be the only other source. It is possible that the lines were over or under torqued, i didn't watch the procedure being performed.

Has any one run into replacment high pressure fuel pumps leaking at the fittings. We have one in the shop now, pump was replaced and instantly started leaking upon cranking the engine over. The tech is less than impressed. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Have had 6 or seven this year, only one with a blown fuse. As soon as i cracked it open i fully comprehended the term, "letting the smoke out". /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif

My first 6.4 came in on the hook. No high fuel pressure, pin pointed to the pump. Removed cab /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif. Removed and inspected pump and found bent pump shaft and damage to the gear. Upon further inspection found damage to cam and crank gear teeth. Metal in pan. New Motor on the way. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif I love my job.