nunan

Thank you! That helps a ton.

Hey guys, long time since I've been on here. Im working on a 99 international 4700 with juice disc brakes, with no abs. Im replacing all the brake lines, and unfortunately for me im picking up in the middle if where someone else left off. He disconnected the soft lines to the master, and i don't know which goes to the rear or front lines. Can anyone help id it for me, idon't normally play with juice breaks and it's been a while, but ifigure there is a 50% chance im wrong and if it's any more than 10% that I'd be wrong i look for help. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Ps i hooked them up to gravity bleed and look for any leaks while i was researching my issue.

Thanks guys. I'm gunna look into some of those. the IDS i'm trying to get put in the budget for next year, hopefully.

Hey guys, I'm looking at outfitting my shop with tools that are necessary for diagnostics on 6.0s. I have a laptop and am attempting to get my shop to purchase IDS (have all my other manufacturers software on this, so just a matter of forcing their hand). What about fuel pressure testers, compression testers etc. any recommendations? I dont want to spend the shops money on useless tools that I dont need when I can buy stuff thats actually useful. Thanks in advance

Im working on a 97 7.3, went to go put one of the rocker arms on and fell off the truck, dropping the rocker arm and having it split in three pieces. well i found the arm, but not the ball bearing. I'm going to try finding it in the light, but if i cant find it, my buddy has a wrekced 2001 7.3. are they the same rocker arms? if they are i can go grab them off the wreck. just need to know if its worth the trip. Thanks!

I've pulled the head on a 97 7.3, but both dowel pins are bent and messed up bad. i'm going to try and reshape them, but if I cant, is there anywhere to purchase new ones?

i gave it a shot. the center conductor came out of the tip..so now the head has to come out. lucky me.

hey guys, i need some suggestions. one of my drivers tried changing his glow plugs on his f350, and ended up snapping one of the old plugs. All of the old ones had a shit load of carbon on the tip, so i'm guessing the tip got stuck past the cylinder. all that is left is the tip that pokes through the head, and the wire core that goes through the center of the plug. any ideas on a way to loosen it up to pull it out and replace it? or am i going to have to pull the head and remove it that way? any help would be awesome. thanks

No I agree Jim. turns out the hack mechanic was a mechanic i worked with at chevy, hah. I wrote a quote for him to fix the whole truck, because i also found out it had bottom end damage as well (dusted turbo, pulled glowplugs on 1&8 and saw scoring in the cylinder). When he saw the quote, I explained to him what was happening and why it happened, and he was better off either selling the truck while he can, or investing in it for the long haul. Had him pay me for the parts and labor i put into it, and he drove it away (at least better than when it came in) I did find out the wires for the ECT were rubbed through. explained the -40. I did not find a break in the wires for the GP or IH, so I am guessing it was the module that was messed up, but I do not know. I didnt really want to work on it, between Sandy and power outages, it pushed me into my schedule I set up for my kitchen remodel. so off she went. Thanks for the help gentleman. Hopefully the next one will be when I have more time

the -40 was the ECT, i dont have access to the oasis or anything, so I'm just tracing wires at this point. I will try putting a test light in between them. The wait to start light does come on. It was giving power before I replaced the relay on top of the engine. I will try disconnecting the EOT to maximize the amount of time the glow plugs stay on. I agree its a bullshit repair, but its a beat to shit truck. looks like someone went over the engine bay with an oil spray gun, and half the shit was either loose or just broken (cac tubes, air cleaner clips, injector connectors etc) i dont know why almost all landscapers do not see the value in quality repairs of their vehicles, but it seems like every side job i get is the same MO. I will give it a shot tonight when I get home and see if that rememdies the problem.

the pcm is sending a power signal. goes to ground with key off, then kicks to power, so both have terminals have power going to them. i checked the harness from the bulkhead and everything had continuity. from what I can tell its a short to power, but wasnt sure. now this truck is beat to crap. like not worth the money putting into it. should i just offer to install a heavy duty push switch to energize the two coils so he can just energize the relays for 10-15 seconds, or 30 seconds whatever the time may be? i dont think its worth the x amount of hours of diag time going through the harness just to find out its an IDM or GPCM and have it not be worth replacing those items.

Had a friend of a friend drop off a 2000 f550 7.3 for a hard/no start when cold. but it starts right up when it is plugged in. truck is a landscaping truck, and you can tell it was not taken care of in the slightest. on the way down here, it actually stalled out, and had to get towed the rest of the way. I finally got power back, so I was able to figure out why it died (CMP allowed it to start and it had a code for it) and got it running. Prior to it running, it had a list of codes. I replaced the IPR, due to hi ICP cranking pressures (like 5k psi)ICP sensor was replaced as well. Glow plug relay was replaced because it was cracked. Now it starts and runs, poorly but i think thats because the PCM is reading -40 degrees...which is obviously wrong. So i need to replace the sensor on that. Now my question is, does the ECM switch power or ground to the GPR? I checked continuity on all the wires to the glow plug and intake heater from the bulkhead connector (engine side) to the relays. Right now I'm getting power to both sides of the relay for both of them, so I'm not sure if i'm getting a short to power, or if the glow plug control module or IDM (if thats even involved) is bad. anyone got an idea what to check?

sorry guys. 4wd i thought i tried car part but i'll check again. I know rock auto and the local dealer couldnt get it, neither could napa or our local motorcraft supplier. Thanks!

anyone have any idea where i can pick up a 95-97 f350 passenger side knuckle? one of my drivers trucks has one that the tie rod hole has been elongated, so I'm not doing balljoints until i can put the new one one. any ideas/vendors that i can purchase from? i have not found one at a junkyard or dealer yet. Thanks

that blows keith. has beyer dragged that place that far down?

Id rather them mount the a/c compressor in the spot of the vacuum pump and get rid of vacuum operated controls on my vans lol and thank god they arent...otherwise youd be seeing more of my vans hah

Ive done a few already, and this is the first time i've broken one. stupid spot for the ckp anyway..

bruce you're the man. That should help me out immensely! Thanks

Doing a side job with a friend of mine. it's a 94 f350 that will not start. Previous owner had it break down with no restart, and then he abandoned the truck for a good 4-5 years. Fastforward to a few weeks ago, the current owner bought it off him thinking he could get my friends dad to fix it (works mainly on old mechanical diesels, restores construction equipment/trucks from the 30s to late 80s). Him, his son (another diesel mechanic for a standby generator company) and myself are trying to figure a few things out. They had initially repaired the wiring harness going to the engine from the bulkhead due to severe rat damage (couldnt get the engine to turn over with key). So they said they fixed all the circuits in that harness (was done with wire nuts..not a huge fan of that) So i checked the basics first. oil level was good, we eliminated the fuel tanks and ran a aux tank full of fresh clean diesel, changed the filter. tried crankin and was getting nothing. My friend had the valve covers pulled before I got there, and it seemed like we were getting no oil up to the heads. So i'm thinkin base oil problem. We eventually pulled the oil cooler to see if we were getting oil from the LPP, and we're not. So thats why the previous owner abandoned it probably. But before they told the customer that it needed an oil pump, they wanted to verify there was nothing else wrong with it. I'm not a big fan of turning over an engine that knowingly has a bad oil pump, especially considering how long its been sitting out of service. But they both insisted we check, so once i made sure they knew it wasnt my idea, i continued helping. I wanted to check for codes, but my scan tool wasn't hooking up. so after i couldnt get it to communicate, i decided to manually check for a few things. Found out I'm not gettign a 5v reference to anything. I found that the PCM and IDM relays were not getting triggered on, due to a wiring fault somewhere in the coil sides of those relays. So i hot wired the relays from a fused power source, and turned it over. CMP was not getting anything back, but it still wasnt getting a 5 volt reference. I followed the PC/ED as much as I could, and kept getting told to replace the PCM. I cant find the PCM anywhere and they do not remanufacture them anymore. So i need help on trying to locate a new PCM for this beast, or atleast pricing. Also, could anything else be causing my 5 volt reference to not be showing up? One other question. For the PCM to tell the IDM to fire the injectors, does it need to see base oil pressure? any help would be great, thank you.

Thats what I thought it was, until I was looking around underneathe and saw a little copper by the ckp sensor (wasnt the cam...been a while since i actually had to get the nomenclature right on a 6.0), low and behold I hit the CKP while i was putting the a/c compressor back in and cracked it. Had connection while idling and driving normally, but the vibrations from rompin on it or turnin on the a/c mustve jarred it loose enough to break connection. but wasnt enough to completely disconnect it, which kinda makes sense with the bucking. i was underneathe it with it running, and touched the crank sensor wire and it died. did it 5 times to make sure I wasnt inadvertantly touching something else. Dropped the tank to be sure though and replaced the FSU (was bad to begin with) so i got a chance to do a thorough inspection on the tank..and its fine. So back on the road she goes...and onto my next project.. CE bus with no communication through the DLC. should be fun.. Thanks for all the help guys!

well I found the cam sensor connector...barely holding onto the cam sensor. Going to replace it, then check the crank sensor to make sure thats okay, and take it for a ride (once i get the new sending unit in the tank) Thanks for your help guys!

I ordered the fuel pump for it, so I will replace that today. It threw the cam codes, but they were not hard codes. also didnt come up in the KOEO test, game up in the generic read codes (working with a genysis)

Passed KOEO self test, injector test, KOER test and KOER glow plug test

update, it had codes P0336, P0341, P0463, P0528, P2614, P2617. Only codes that are current are the ones for the fuel sender (disconnected, waiting on a new one.)

So I'm working on this 06 e450, replacing an a/c compressor because it failed the semi annual bus inspection. No big deal, replace the compressor, broke an aluminum line adapter in the process (again..no big deal, just adds to the headache), get it all buttoned up and running, let it idle in the parking lot for 15-20 minutes, then ran it under a load to for a few minutes to make sure it was all peachy. I go to take it for re-inspection this morning, and it starts right up and has plenty of power. I get about 5-6 miles, van starts bucking real hard and eventually dies. I could not restart right after it stalled. I waited for the tow truck (about an hour) and the bus started with no problem, and ran like it did when i first left. Get it towed back to the shop, drop the fuel filters and there is some slight amounts of crap in there (not neccessarily flakes, was hard to tell). I changed the filters because I was told the tank was delaminating last time it was worked on outside of my shop, so I've been changing the filters every 3k miles to try and prolong the life of it. I changed the filters, took it down the road (load tested it prior to leaving for 4 minutes and it was fine. engine was still hot from earlier drive), got about 3 miles and truck did same thing. Got it towed back to the shop, started right back up and was fine. I dropped the tank, hoping to find giant flakes or like a tshirt floating in it that would cause it to clog the pickup, but of course.. tank looks fine. No obvious signs of delamination and only a slight amount of crap in the main baffle area where the pickup sits (had to scrape with a screwdriver to see if it was just rust or dirt) Pickup was clean with no signs of crap on it. The whole exterior of the tank is rusted and the powdercoat/paint is coming off in sheets. So, my question is have you guys seen this/where do you think i should go. I am waiting on my log on stuff to get approved before I can check FMC, so right now I'm just going by past experiences. I also do not have a pressure gauge for fuel (yet). Thanks