Matt Saunoras

Our driveability tech quit and I have been saddled with some gasser stuff.

I haven't been in the business that long but is this the norm? Jam the extra workload on the existing employees while the position remains unfilled?

I have reused ARPs once and that truck is still going strong.  Be aware that there are other brand studs out there that may not share the same torque spec as ARPs.  Higher strength tool steel studs require less torque to get the same clamping force.  If over torqued they could break, I've heard of this after one tech swore up and down that studs were junk and he only used bolts.

I've got at 15 F-550 here.  Has DTCs P0170, P207F, P229F, P242A, P242B, P246E and P2A01.   It has about 80k miles on it.  Been to 2 other shops for exhaust related faults.  One was a PM sensor, the other was NOx11 and Nox12.  I'm going to reprogram, replace EGT13 and 14 and drive it to see what else is up.  I can see the PM sensor wiring rubbing a u-bolt for the body.  Pulled it away for now, one black wire looks like it's all the way through.

Got a 08 F-550 rollback in here that needs 2 up-pipes and a RH manifold.  I stole some newer looking up-pipes off a core engine that came through here, they can have those if they choose. 

Also a 16 MKX showed up today with the beloved 2.7L ecoboost.  P0305.  The new guy here starts to pull the spark plug and it galls up and stops.  I came over, worked it back and forth a little and got it out.  The plug is rusty as hell and pulled 3 or 4 threads out of the head on its way out.  Look over at the coolant bottle and it's empty.  I've got coolant consumption in the #5 cylinder for sure as #4 and #6 are dry and clean.  This one needs the head yanked off.

Got an 06 F-150 here with a parasitic draw.  Found the headlights staying on intermittently.  Unplugged the VSM and they went out and my draw goes away.  Tried to program a new VSM, won't go.

There's a 15 or 16 police explorer here that has the independent liftgate locking feature.  The customer hates it and wants it disabled.  I hotlined it, they told me it's not possible and I relayed the info to them.  Not good enough.  The customer calls the upfitter and they said it can be disabled but gave vague details on how it's possible.  Now I'm supposed to put the puzzle pieces together and figure it out. 

That isn't all but it's all I can type for now

I am getting my ass handed to me on a platter not having anyone here that can take away some of the BS.

In had to take my angle grinder with a carbide bit to every one of those harness plugs. Even had the valvecover off to try and push them out from the inside. No deal

04 6.0 with 150k. Never been apart past cleaning the turbo

I'm fighting a left bank glow plug harness on a 04 6.0

If you take control of VGT and raise the duty cycle to restrict exhaust flow it will make the EGTs go up BUT the last truck I had trouble with exiting forced idle this did not work on. That was many years ago when we had to replace PCMs for this.

I read it's because they use soy or something organic (and tasty) in the insulation now

 We have a 09 AWD MKZ here for a driveline noise so the other day we ran it up in the air and verified no power flow through the PTU.  We'd just assumed the insides of the PTU ground away to nothing and quoted one out.  I have seen completely rounded PTU pinion teeth before so I didn't think anything of it

Today it comes out and not only are the input splines ground out on the PTU but the female splines in the transmission are gone too.  Ground away to dust.  This is an AWF21 aisin trans so no serviceable internals.  The PTU itself still rotates freely, I could imagine if it bound up it could cause this. 

Once again I have no idea

Aka 4 different continents

I have no idea what kind of charger it was but knowing this customer it wasn't anything modern.  He cheaps out in the wrong places.

My onboard boat battery charger will do 5 amps until it hits 14.1v then drop down and do a float/storage charge of 13.5v.   I don't leave them hooked up all winter but I do charge them every few months during the off season. 

Nevermind.  Mine is a V10 5R110 with a broken coast clutch cylinder.  It's a twin to the 6.7 they have that I thought was here. 

Would the customer having the battery on a "trickle" charger all winter having anything to do with it?

Anyone ever seen a battery go pop? This was on a newer mustang I was testing under warranty. Hooked the diagnostic tester up, no more than 2 minutes later this happened. Made one hell of a noise

F59 chassis fed ex truck no forward or reverse engagement

 

What tranny?  5R110s are breaking coast clutch cylinders and 6R140 are breaking overdrive hubs.  I have a 15 F-550 6R140 sanitation truck here that has no forward or reverse.  You can feel reverse engage but no movement.  It should be coming out next week

Today I screwed around with a 16 police explorer.  They said the radio doesn't shut off when you exit the vehicle.  Found the drivers door ajar switch showing closed all the time.  The circuit from the switch to the BCM was a dead short to ground.  After fucking around checking all the wiring between the door latch and BCM I finally found the harness in the wiring diagram and saw the interceptors run splice to a separate takeout wire for the upfitter.

All the way on the right side of the center console that lone wire was attached to nothing but must have been touching something and grounded out.  It looked like someone wire stripped the end and let it lay.  I put some heat shrink on the end, stuffed it back in there and all is well

Negative, I have a small collection of lower filters left over from replacing a fuel pump and upper filter. I'd gladly put them to use on my truck. 

Anyone ever get any  top filters I'll buy them

I have noticed the sensors ramping up and down at random times while driving post repair. It must be a sensor calibration or something like that. I unusually don't take a hard look at NOx readings until driving for 10-15 miles.

Not that I've really noticed anything besides they seem to settle down after a while

Fords oil pan department just plain sucks. Look at the 2.7 fiasco. Those plastic pans won't seal worth a damn

Man I don't even know what I would do if things went smoothly. The only thing I know is the way it is now, chaos

Got the 6.7 front end trifecta. A vacuum pump leaking oil, water pump leaking coolant and a locked up a/c compressor. I've been working on that here and there for a few days now. Can't stay on one thing, had a guy no call no show so I have to finish all his appointments

Got an 07 mkz here the other guy put in a moonroof track before he left. Now it's back leaking like crazy and it's blowing the fuse.

Found the drivers side vanity mirror wiring shorted out but I have no idea what to do about the leak. I'm not sure if the front drains are restricted or if too much water is getting past the glass. The glass does loom like it needs adjusted but it could be the seal is too hard. No idea

First bad 6.0 standpipe I've seen. I just put this in a few years ago with some cylinder heads. This truck is a F-550 at max weight though.

Also that one and only 6.0 excursion I did head gaskets/coolers on came back. The engine valley soaked in oil. From the looks of things I thought I left the oil cooler loose. Pull it all apart and everything was torqued perfect. Get the cooler out on the bench and I saw it. A flaw in the cover gasket I didn't see the first time. This should be fun to get SPW'd

I had a 97 7.3 no start to diag today. I've never had any driveabilty on one this old. It would only build 140psi ICP while cranking. Base was good and the reservoir full. Much to my surprise the high pressure oil lines weren't quick connect like the newer ones. We had 2 block off tools but none to accept an ICP sensor.

I found a 1/2" fine thread nut and welded it to a spare fitting. Still 140 PSI with both sides blocked off. Quoted an IPR to start and the guy towed it out of here