Hayapower

One of the other 'suspects' is that most times the oil cap is removed, it's placed flat side down on the battery.. Also, some try and pin the cap damage to caustic cleaners like Simple Green/Biodyne but doesn't seem to be the case, otherwise a lot of other plastics in the compartment would be at risk.. I dropped one into an uncut solution of Biodyne and even let it sit in the shop under direct summer sunlight..Still like new.. They look to rotting/pitting as if the surface was breaking down.. Maybe something to the battery theory and/or heat as a contribution to the affects..

Well, finally got this one back in for another look, and a fix.. The thing that through me on this one, was the fact that this truck ran 'absolutely fine’ as long as the glows were ON.. Forced, or otherwise.. Cold or warmed.. At first I thought that ANY time the glow relay was closed that the engine would run fine, and that the HPO numbers would stay within idle spec that way altough a smidge high.. What I found was that if you removed the glow load at the relay while ‘running’, that the HP PSI/Duty would instantly jump to almost double of what the idle specs. should be even though the relay was still closed.. My first thought was a possible PCM grounding issue, but it ran too good.. After ruling out any IPR/ICP/PCM wire/ohm issues, I resorted to a love tap on the outside of the IPR during a run time.. Then, while pulling the glow solenoid grounding wire or load, it would now run for a good 5-10 seconds ‘maybe’ without the glows powered up before a return to the high pressure condition.. Hook the load back on, and after about the same time of 5-10 seconds run time, fine again.. The IPR ohmed out to 10., but was replaced with a new unit and the truck ran fine all the time, glows or not.. What ‘seemed’ to be happening was that the IPR would short on battery voltage, and would then work OK when the glows were pulling the extra amp load dropping voltage until the relay went open and the problem would return.. It also had a few inj. low side codes appear that weren't there in the first test 1,5, that passed for buzz and balance, and ohmed within spec.. Checked all the connectors for tension/condition, both topside and under cover.. All good.. Codes would repeat and the IDM was swapped for a known good unit.. Now a system function pass throughout, and the low codes transferred to the donor system.. Not sure how the IDM would/could play in a fault for IPR, but once the IPR was replaced, it ran fine.. I ran a final code check (worried by now) test/function and got a P0476 that wasn’t there during the previous tests.. New EBP and all is well.. After it was all buttoned up and getting ready to be moved out of the shop late in the day, the batteries went dead!! The ‘reasonably’ new glow relay was stuck closed killing the batteries that ‘were’ fully charged.. Then,, it also decided to drop a little anti freeze out of the almost new (Ford) water pump just before leaving.... … New pump.. and leave it did........

Thanks gasgasman... ICP is new.. My first thought.. Didn't see any connection/chaff issues either.. ICP is text book at all throttle angles 'until' the glows go out.. Each and every time the duty/volt/pressures 'settle' at the same high points, or very close too, on an idle after the glows go out.. Odd thing is, that with the oil temp sensor unplugged it just plain runs bad all the time even though the glows are on.. I'll get back on this one later next week and hopefully have a fix to post.. Rob........

Hey Keith.. Well it grunts some from the extra drag but maintains a good 750 or so.. The only thing that changes is IP/IPR,IPC/V..I do also notice a drop out in PW to .42 for a split second at a time.. Only when at high pressure though.. But I did 'discover' that this high pressure situation is 'directly' tied to the glows.. Don't know why I didn't think of it before.. Hence the time 'on' for good running!! As soon as the glows go out.. Boom, high pressure.. Disconnected the relay and still the same.. Gotta be a grounding prob. in the PCM..

Hey Guys... Got this late 94-(95) 7.3 DI.. It starts cold with no probs. and runs 'smooth'. After about 45-60+ seconds depending on ambient, it will send the Injection/High Oil pressure from 750/800PSI to 1400-1500+.. ICP almost doubles as well.. Duty is running 14% at start up, and will peg to 22+ with an immediate CEL.. Doesn't store any DTC's.. Not terribly suprised there with the early calibration/s.. It will run/remain this way until the key is cycled on/off with a restart..Then, it'll run OK again for about 15-20 seconds 'maybe' on a warmed engine with a repeat of the over PSI condition.. The repeat is each and everytime..This isn't a gradual transition in pressure like a restriction would/might cause, but more like a 'light switch' with an instant/hard application of HPO.. Being that duty cycle is PCM/ground low controlled, I'd think it was caused by a dieing PCM.. But I'm not sold at this point.. Being that this is "SO"' predictable pushes me in that direction.. I haven't gone too far with this at this point, but thought I'd toss my hat in the ring before I go searching for 'possibilites'..This is one of our service trucks and down time is of essence... Anyone run into this situation before?? Any help would be great... Thanks much.....Rob..

Have you ever tried the plastic razor blades offered on the net?.. Or, I know our local pet/aquarium supply sells an ABS plastic razor/scraper for aquarium glass cleaning and such with all different lenght handles and even stubbies.. All with changable replacement blades.. Good for removing mineral deposits and the like, so must be reasonably tough.. ...........Rob........

I had one a while ago that was being lit off consistently with ether in the AM's.. Denied of course, but finally a confession! The glow system was toast, and the BIG BANG finally took a 1/4-1/2" wide section of the rings, lands, and a hunk of the side of the piston on down into the pan.. Odd part was that the top of the piston looked 'almost' normal with a very minor, almost unnoticeable, OD distortion topside/crown.. Some cracking down lower as well, but no damage to the bore! Even after being run for some miles in it's condition, only some trace wear pattern, 'no' scoring, and the bore spec. was good as was the rod/s.. The other seven pistons were fine.. But it looked somewhat as you stated, melted away, like a torch was used to cut away a portion of the piston.. Intense heat and pressure at work /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

The OEM air filter falls under Ford's 'tune up' discounts for stocking costumers (at least here) and can be had for about 51.00.. Believe it has just over a 100.00 list.. And discounted, is still about 10.00 less than NAPA pricing.. They are a little more competitive on the oil filters though!! still running mid/high teens a unit.. Wal Marts price 'as posted' (haven't shopped there myself) is more than a couple bucks cheaper than NAPA's.. NAPA and Ford are priced relatively close for stocking dealers which sounds like Wal Mart is really 'price slashing'!! Or is that Targets slogan!?! Amazing that a 'basically' repackaged oil filer can/will vary so much in price depending on who's counter it crosses..

I have a very old 'squeeze' type generator flash light given to me by my Grand Father. He used to drive truck and used it for on road repairs/inspection.. Handy 'and' useless little light, that can and will 'severely' cramp your forearm/s with extended use, but could potentially build you a set of arms like Popeye in a VERY short time.. Used it a few times, and thought it may come in handy in a natural disaster ect. or 'Maybe' when all my other 5 or so shop hand helds fail!! Problem is, that if you use it long enough (and you DO have to continually pump it) not only do you ache with pain, but can't aim it any longer either as you try and pull enough power through it to 'just' light the bulb to a useable candlepower.. Then try and turn a wrench.... Sure.. BTW Ford Doc.. I had one of those old S/cable greasers in new condition and sold it on eBay!!

I did get a chance to talk to BD's sales/tech about their unit.. EBP, stresses/heat on the turbo, and any issues sticking ect. with their unit as well were the firsts things I asked.. And any performance/CEL issues he might like to pony up during R&D.. He didn't give up much info., he must'a been a salesman, but said that it was 'worked' out for the 6.0.. Hummm.. I'm guessing about 3-4 hours to install/wire (after the release of liability is signed) but don't know of anyone 'actually' using one at this point on the 6.0.. And this is one of those, 'my friends have one' and it works fine on their diesel.. Later model Cummins, and 7.3 if I remember correctly.. He tows heavy alot, and if any issues, they should surface fairly quick.. A good test truck.. Guess I can always install it, and if puts the squeeze on the 6.0, he can always say he has one!! Seen alot of tuners, and pipes, but no plugs yet Sign here please!! Rob...

I've done exactly that on a few tanks.. We seem to see more than our share of 'trash' tanks/screens for repeated cleaning!! I drilled/tapped through the broken stud (got lucky, only one) with a small plastic paint mixing cup attached to the underside B/stud area, Leaving both hands available to get it straight/center, and no fishing for bits later.. Cleaned/prepped the underside and coated the fresh bolt and newly cut threads with metalized epoxy.. Pulling it tight from the inside, with a thread chase, just in case.. Cure time, coating all studs with anti seize, and good to go.. Zero leaks.....

4R100 builds X 2 for the week, and a 'sick' 7.3 polluted with water/rust in the wings.. Actually the second time for this truck!!! Think they'd learn?!? BTW.. Searched for topic, but want to know what you guys think about installing BD/Pac exhaust brakes on a 6.0/ZF.. Concerned about sticking/failing a turbo, EGR ect.. Or the long term affect.. Think the VGT can meet the challenge? Thanks....Rob...